Wyoming & Montana road trip: Mount Washburn & Mammoth Hot Springs (day 6)

Joseph & me hiking up Mount Washburn

The rain from the previous night continued into the early next morning. It was cold & wet when we awoke, the pitter patter of the water on our tent’s canvas walls singing like a lullaby & begging us to return to our warm sleeping bag. However, this was our last day in Yellowstone National Park, & we wanted to make the most of it.

Our first stop of the day was Mount Washburn. It was a long drive from our campsite, & by the time we reached the trailhead, the rain had stopped. We laced up our hiking boots, shrugged on our jackets, & began the trek up the mountain.

It was a chilly hike up, but the continual upward grade of the trail had us shedding layers after only a few minutes. All the while, we gazed around us at the breathtaking views of forested mountains illuminated by the warm glow of the early morning sun. As we walked, we heard an elk call through the trees, & we stopped for a few minutes, our breath hanging in front of us, hoping to hear the majestic sound again.

The clouds began to part just as we neared the summit. As we stepped onto the mountain peak, we were gifted with beautiful, clear blue skies & a gorgeous view of the valley below. Surrounding us on all sides were tall mountain peaks & fluffy white clouds. We had just enough time to take a few photos before the dark clouds rolled in again, obscuring our view.

Me at the summit of Mount Washburn

The hike back down the mountain went by faster than the trek up. As we walked, we were met by a group of middle school-aged kids, who we recognized as the group we had crossed paths with just a few days earlier. The same kid from the Fairy Falls hike looked at us, caught sight of Joseph’s Colorado hat, & asked once again, 

“Are you from Colorado?” 

“Nope,” Joseph said again, grinning.

“Wait, I feel like we asked them that before!” the kid next to him exclaimed. 

“She has a Maryland hat!” another kid exclaimed. Joseph & I laughed down the mountain. It was such a simple encounter, but the chances of running into the same kids for a second time, now on the last day of our trip in Yellowstone, felt almost fortuitous. 

After we finished our hike, we headed to Tower Fall for lunch. The overlook did not provide much of a view – we could just barely make out the distant falls through the foliage of the trees. Joseph & I gazed at the plummeting water for a moment before we could evade our hunger no longer. We grabbed our food from the car & set up at a nearby picnic table for some much needed sustenance.

Since we had some extra time to spare, we decided to visit the Mammoth Hot Springs. Much of the area is still closed due to flooding, but the area around the springs is thankfully reopened for visitors.

The Mammoth Hot Springs

As soon as we arrived, I was grateful we had come. The Mammoth Hot Springs are unlike anything I have ever seen. White & orange rock cascaded down like water, glistening in the sun’s light. We learned the incredible colors of the springs have been created over thousands of years as the hot water from the geothermal springs cooled & deposited calcium carbonate.

Walking around the springs, it felt as if we had traveled somewhere else in the galaxy rather than just another spot in Yellowstone. If I had seen photos of the white & orange landscape with barren trees poking out of the surface, it would not have taken any convincing to make me believe I was looking at Mars or another distant planet in our solar system. 

The hike itself is not one I would recommend. We took the Mammoth Terraces & Upper Terrace Loop Trail, & it led us over the service road around the park, which had quite a bit of elevation & no shoulder for us to walk. We were constantly on edge as cars came flying down the hill we were climbing. By the end of the hike, we were hot & tired & had unfortunately seen very little of the actual attraction.

After our hike, we drove back to our campsite to shower & buy some wine. This was our final night in Wyoming, & we wanted to celebrate. We drove back to our spot on Yellowstone Lake from previous day, laid out our towels & relaxed. We ate dinner & drank our wine, watching the sun set & the ducks swim in the serene, still lake. When the sky grew dark, we returned to our campsite to make s’mores. 

Just as we were scraping the marshmallows from out sticks with graham crackers & chocolate, the sky opened. Thunder rolled over our heads as rain poured down. We hurriedly doused our fire in water, grabbed our pajamas & dove into our tent. Soaked, laughing & happily eating our gooey, sweet s’mores, we leaned back with satisfied sighs. 

Our Yellowstone adventure has come to an end. I have never seen anything like the colorful springs & explosive geysers we saw on this trip. Everywhere we went in the park, there was something new to see, & I was amazed by just how variable the landscape was. From geysers to waterfalls to tall mountains, there was always something new to see & explore.

Me watching the sunrise over Yellowstone Lake

The trip is not over, but this chapter is finished. Thank you Yellowstone for the adventure. Walking on this ancient land, it felt much like traversing into a different time. Often on our trips, we get to connect with locals & other travelers, & we always deliberately try to learn about where we are visiting & the people that live there. But Yellowstone connected us to something deeper – a rich history & a place where many have stepped on the land before us. Yellowstone was the first National Park to exist, & I can only hope that it will continue to be a special place for people to visit for generations.

The world is growing hotter, & Yellowstone is no exception. Because of the pollution of the world, & the unfortunate deliberate pollution of some visitors, the park’s springs & geysers already look much different than they did before. Species of animals, such as the ptarmigan, have been forced to move because of the hotter temperature. It is not often we are able to directly look at the effects of global warming, but visiting Yellowstone gave us a clear look at what our existence on this planet & the way we have treated it has affected other species & our home.

Making a change now won’t bring back the Yellowstone of 100 years ago. But it can ensure that Yellowstone National Park is still a place our children & grandchildren can one day visit. It can ensure that species of animals will not go extinct & the ecosystems unique to this park continue to thrive.

I am a strong believer that small changes make a big difference. No one person can stop global warming or save our planet, but when many of us incorporate just a few sustainable living practices into our daily lives, it can truly have an impact on a grander scale.

It’s been 150 years since Yellowstone was declared the world’s first national park. Let’s work together to make sure it remains the unique landmark it is for 150 more.

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Wyoming & Montana road trip: Grand Canyon & West Thumb (day 5)

Joseph & me at Point Sublime in the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

It is rather typical of Joseph & I to plan way too much into our trip itineraries. We often find ourselves waking before the sunrise, hiking & exploring all day, & crashing into our beds (or in this case, sleeping bags) long after the sun has gone down. 

Today, we woke up at 5am in the hopes of seeing the sunrise in Hayden Valley. It’s a spot in Yellowstone known for great views of wildlife, & we were eager to visit before the crowds gathered. 

We took a little longer than expected to get ready, & we found ourselves racing against the clock to get to Hayden Valley on time. If nothing else, we consented we would still be able to capture some beautiful photos in the early morning light. 

On our way, we passed by Yellowstone Lake, & we could not help but stop to take in the view. Separating us from the still, silent water was a picturesque wooden fence. On the other side of the water, silhouettes of dark purple mountains stretched up to the blushing pink sky. We sat for a moment, drinking in the view, & then our jaws dropped in amazement. We had stopped at the perfect time. The sun crested over the mountain peaks, burning so bright we could barely look. It rose into the sky, sending a stream of golden light across the water. Joseph & I watched in awe, no longer concerned about our sunrise views in Hayden Valley. This was the perfect place to be. 

When we finally did resume our drive, we found Hayden Valley empty of wildlife, so we continued on to our next stop: the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

Me at Artist Point in the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

I am probably going to regret writing this, but when I visited the real Grand Canyon, I found it somewhat underwhelming. Perhaps it was because I had been literally running through red, orange & brown canyons for days in the unforgiving summer desert heat, or maybe it was because of where I was in the park (I have learned since visiting that there are better views of the Grand Canyon in certain areas of the park, & I was definitely in one of the less stunning ones), but when I had visited, I was somewhat disappointed by the big hole in the ground. I am not sure what I was expecting – something more grand? But all this aside, I was lowering my expectations as we arrived at the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, sure that this view would disappoint when compared to the national treasure it was named for. 

So, when I did step up to Artist Point, I audibly gasped in awe. The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone is stunning. Bathed in the yellow early morning light, the canyon has an ethereal quality that made it feel like something not of this world. In the distance, a large, rushing waterfall gushed into the valley below, forming a winding river that surged through the valley below. Lush green trees grew along the rocks, filling the yellow & white valley with spots of green. 

We hiked to Point Sublime, all the while gazing out at the arresting views of the valley beside us. Sublime Point, in my opinion, was not the best view (Artist Point, which is just an easy, quick walk from the parking lot, was more stunning), but the views all along the hike made the trek worth it. 

After hiking, we drove along the North Rim of the Grand Canyon to see some other views before driving to our next stop: West Thumb

Joseph at West Thumb Geyser Basin

All during the trip, we have seen geysers & hot springs. However, West Thumb had these natural marvels right on the edge of a lake! It felt strange to see this two very different elements collide. Standing on the boardwalk, we had steam rising from hot geysers to our left & a chill breeze coming off the choppy blue water to our right. 

After exploring, we sat at a picnic table nearby to eat our lunch. As we ate, we talked about what to do with the rest of our day as we came face to face with an unprecedented event in our many travels together – a free afternoon.

We thought of finding another hike to do, but we had already explored much of the park, & everything else we still wanted to do we had planned for following day. And so, with no plans & nowhere to go, we stopped by the general store to pick up some s’mores fixings for later & then headed for the lake. 

The black pebble beach was nearly empty. We tied up our ENO hammocks & gazed out at the rippling water surrounded by tall pine trees & dark blue mountains. We dozed as we swayed, a gentle breeze caressing us. When we grew cold, we laid out on the hot black beach warmed by the sun & watched the ducks swim. 

After a few hours of relaxation, we headed back to our campsite to eat dinner. Not long after, storm clouds rolled in, so we escaped to the safety of our tent. Joseph pulled out a deck of UNO! cards, & we stayed up, laughing & having way too much fun playing such a simple game. When we grew tired, we laid back in our sleeping bags & listened to the patter of rain our tent.

Days like today normally don’t happen when Joseph & I are traveling. There is normally so much packed into our itinerary, we don’t even have a moment to think about relaxing. And we enjoy it that way – there is always something new to do or a new place to explore. But today was a rare treat that we both enjoyed, & it reminded us of something even more beautiful – it is not the adventure that makes our travels special, but the time spent in one another’s company. 

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Wyoming & Montana road trip: Old Faithful, Fairy Falls & more geysers (day 4)

Joseph & me at Fairy Falls

It’s day four of our Wyoming & Montana road trip, & I can already tell it is going to go by way too fast. After one full day spent in Grand Teton National Park, it is already time to move on & begin exploring Yellowstone.

It was a rough night’s sleep in the campground. I have been spoiled with a bed for far too long & had forgotten just how uncomfortable sleeping on the ground is. The cool mountain air that had seemed refreshing at first was much less so at 2:00 in the morning. I tossed & turned all night, waking multiple times every hour, to the point that I was eager to get up & get moving in the early morning rather than continue to try to sleep. 

Joseph & I packed up our campsite together & began the hour-and-a-half-long drive to Old Faithful. As we entered Yellowstone National Park, the steam from the hot springs billowed onto the roads & clouded our vision. We followed the cars in front of us into a dense fog that obscured almost everything from view. Slowly & carefully, we made our way through the quiet park to our destination.

Old Faithful is a rather built up area of the park, complete with restaurants, grocery & souvenir shops, & a large, cabin-style lodge. We checked the geyser predictions first, & since we had about an hour until Old Faithful was planned to erupt, we decided to explore the shops. Upon entering the first building, we were immediately grateful for our decision – a cafe with a number of breakfast options &, more importantly, fresh espresso greeted us inside. Joseph ordered mini cinnamon buns & an americano, & I ordered a hot latte that spread through my cold limbs & filled me with a delightful warmth.

As the geyser prediction time approached, Joseph & I returned outside to find the now fully risen sun had warmed the landscape considerably. We sat with the other visitors, eagerly awaiting the famous geyser’s show.

After nearly 20 minutes of waiting, the steam coming from the risen mound of earth began to intensify. Water spurted up from the geyser hole, at first only jumping a few feet in the air, & then leaping high above our heads. The steam followed & floated high into the sky, sharing with distant onlookers the spectacle taking place.

It ended quicker than expected, & soon the geyser was quiet once again, steam rising innocently from its opening. From all around us, members of the audience clapped. We all stood & began to gather our belongings, eager to explore more.

Me at the Morning Glory Pool

From Old Faithful, Joseph & I walked around the Upper Geyser Basin. Every few steps brought another surprising creation of nature. Steam rose from all around us, the barren landscape resembling something of prehistoric times. We walked past pools of boiling water, ranging in color from bright yellow to grassy green to a beautiful, clear cyan. Our favorite was the Morning Glory Pool, which was the farthest away but definitely worth the wait. The brilliant colors of brown, yellow, green & blue faded into one another like a rainbow. Looking closely, we could see where the pool narrowed & disappeared into the earth below.

Yellowstone is the world’s first national park, & it is known for its unique hydrothermal and geologic features. According to the National Park Service website, “Yellowstone has the most active, diverse, and intact collections of combined geothermal features with over 10,000 hydrothermal sites and half the world’s active geysers.”

After our walk around the Upper Geyser Basin, we stopped at the Visitors’ Center to talk with a park ranger. Due to recent flooding, parts of Yellowstone National Park have been closed, & we wanted to make sure our itinerary was still possible. The ranger was increidbly knowledgeable & helped us adjust our plans & decide where to visit in the park during our short stay. We had intended on visiting the Mammoth Hot Springs & Lamar Valley, but with so much of those areas still closed, we rearranged our days & gave ourselves more time at the other places we wanted to visit.

Our next stop was Biscuit Basin, which was filled with even more geysers & colorful springs. After that, we headed to Fairy Falls. The hike was short & flat, so we decided to add a quick turnoff to overlook the Grand Prismatic Spring. It was a sharp change in elevation, & we were breathing heavy by the time we reached the top. But the view was more than worth it. The Morning Glory Pool we had seen earlier paled in comparison to this.

The Grand Prismatic Spring

The Grand Prismatic Spring was huge – measuring at approximately 370 feet, it is bigger than a football field & is the largest hot spring in Yellowstone. Its vibrant colors shown through the hot steam that billowed off of the water & into the air above. Surrounded by eager onlookers, we all gazed in awe at this wonder of nature.

On our way down from the overlook, we were met with a large group of what looked to be middle school-aged kids. They took a great interest to us & especially Joseph’s Colorado baseball cap.

“Are you from Colorado?” one of the kids called out.

“Nope,” Joseph called back.

“Oh.” The kids began to talk amongst themselves about this strange turn of events, & Joseph & I laughed all the way back down the hill.

There was not much to see for the rest of the hike on our way to the falls. The trail changed from a wide, dusty path to a thin gravel surrounded by tall pine trees. We chatted while we walked, taking note of the small chipmunks that scuttled around our feet & constantly on the lookout for larger wildlife.

When we arrived at Fairy Falls, Joseph & I were both taken aback by their beauty. Wispy water cascaded down the rock to a cool pool below, sending a mist over the nearest onlookers gathered on the rocks at its base. We sat together, drinking in the view & enjoying the rewarding rest before beginning the hike back our car.

Me taking photos at Fairy Falls

It was already getting late, but we had one last stop planned for our day. We hopped in our car & headed to Norris Geyser to hike the Porcelain Basin Trail. The geysers & springs were similar to those we saw on the Upper Geyser Trail & at Biscuit Basin, & yet we still marveled at the view. Neither of us had ever seen anything like them before. Yellowstone truly is a unique place that is worth visiting, whether you enjoy hiking, lying near a lake with a good book, or riding horses through the wilderness. Every section of the park is unique – in our first day alone we saw so many different things, & I can’t wait to see what other views it has to offer.

The drive to our campground was nearly two hours. We passed the time listening to music & talking. On the way, we were brought to a halt by stopped cars in front of us, only to realize there was a bison walking right beside the road! Lumbering along, he paid no mind to the cars passing by.

He, however, was not the greatest surprise the day held. Upon entering our campground, we saw a sign for showers! We had not expected to be able to shower until we reached Glacier National Park, as this had not been a promised amenity in our Yellowstone campground, & we were thrilled at the idea of getting clean after a long two days of hiking. We peeled into the parking lot, grabbed our toiletries, rented fluffy white towels, & rushed into the gloriously hot showers.

Feeling refreshed & sudsy clean, we checked into our campground. We set up our tent & made freeze dried meals for dinner – spicy sausage pasta for Joseph & grilled chicken & mushroom wild rice pilaf for me. I was unexpectedly pleased once again by how tasty the meal was, & soon we were seated by our campfire, feeling relaxed & satisfied.

As the sky grew darker, Joseph encouraged me to stay awake to see the night sky with him. We walked aorund the quiet campground, gazing up at the sky in wonder. Every inch of the black landscape was cluttered with stars twinkling down at us. I had not seen stars like this since our trip to Colorado two years ago, & I had forgotten just how incredible they are.

The night was getting late, though, & we had another long day ahead of us. Knowing that we would have the chance to stargaze again soon, we headed back to our campsite & retired to bed.

It was another long day of traveling, & yet, I can’t believe there are only two more days left in Yellowstone before we drive up to Glacier National Park. I am trying to commit every moment of this trip to memory, knowing it will be over before I know it & we will be back on the plane to Maryland. But the finite nature of moments in life is what make them sweet, & I feel truly grateful to be out west again, exploring new places & savoring each & every moment.

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