Vermont fall road trip: Mount Peg & Grout Pond (day 4)

Me looking out at the view from Mount Peg’s summit

October Sunday mornings in Vermont are crisp & quiet. Joseph & I drove through the bright orange, red & yellow leaves, both of us too in awe by their beauty to break the silence with conversation. There is something magical about Vermont in the fall that seems to evade any description. Words simply aren’t enough to capture its beauty.

Our first stop was Mount Peg. While the weather had been cold all weekend, Sunday was particularly frigid. We bundled up in our warmest hiking gear & then began the walk up through the trees to the summit.

The hike to the top from Woodstock is quick & only moderately challenging. Soon enough, the trees parted to reveal a stunning view of the town below. We sat together on a rustic wood bench, breathing heavy from the exertion of the climb & the unbelievable beauty of the view. Mountains painted in a rainbow of warm colors & dotted with small, white homes rolled across the landscape. Above us, birds soared with the wind. In the distance, we could just make out the familiar neat rows of pine trees, the hallmark trait of a Christmas tree farm. 

Me & Joseph at the summit of Mount Peg

When we finally were able to tear ourselves away from the view, we hurried back down the mountain, stomachs rumbling. It was time for breakfast. We drove to The Skinny Pancake, a popular spot for good reason. We had to wait about an hour to be seated, but it was well worth it. There were an array of crepes to choose from, & each option sounded even more delicious than the last. We finally settled on a cheesy Veggie Monster Crepe for me, a Pulled Pork Crepe for Joseph, & a Hot Apple Crumble Crepe that was topped with a cold scoop of vanilla ice cream to share. On the side, we shared the most delicious waffle cut sweet potato fries I have ever tasted, which we dipped in ketchup & sweet Vermont maple syrup. To finish out the meal, we ordered a latte & americano, which were served to us in large, round mugs topped with foam art.

Stomachs more than satisfied, we headed back to the car for an afternoon of leaf peeping. The sky had been cloudy all day, but as we stopped to soak in the view, the sun made an appearance for just a moment, spilling golden light over the landscape & bathing the leaves in yellow. It seemed there was somewhere to stop every other minute. The views along Kelley Stand Road were especially beautiful. It took us far longer than it should have to make our way down the lane – we were too arrested by the view to go any faster. 

After we finished our drive, we headed to Grout Pond for a hike around the water. The trail itself was a few steps away from the most beautiful views of the pond, & the clouds above unfortunately kept us hurrying forward. We did not want to get caught in another rainstorm like we had a few days ago. But we enjoyed the cool air in our lungs & the conversation that kept us moving forward. 

Me hiking around Grout Pond

It was nearly dark by the time we finished our hike. We stopped by an odd little town on our way to our Airbnb & bought pot pies to make for dinner. Then we drove the hour to a small campground, where we would be staying in a trailer for the evening. As I prepared dinner, Joseph started a small campfire & got out our s’mores fixings ready. We opened some wine & toasted the perfect weekend in Vermont, which was, unfortunately, nearly over now. Seated by the campfire, gazing up at the stars while roasting marshmallows, I remember experiencing that same magical feeling overtake me. There was something special about Vermont that I just couldn’t seem to grasp. But I knew it was the kind of magic you only experience once in a while, & instead of dreading when it’s going to leave you, it’s meant to be savored for every moment you exist within it. 

Now looking back, I still can’t quite put my finger on what was so magical about Vermont. The leaves were unlike any I had ever seen before – the colors were vibrant & stunningly bright against the landscape, but I don’t think that is where the magic came from. There is a rich history to the place as well, & it excited me to walk across a landscape I knew so many long ago had also traversed. But still, I don’t think that was what the magic came from. The people were pleasant & seemed to love their home just as much as I loved visiting, but still, the source of the magic seems to be evading me.

It was something deeper. There seemed to be an energy around the place that beckoned people to come, sit back for a while & appreciate the view. And maybe it was just that – the way we were forced to slow down a little & just admire the beauty of this place. And perhaps the finality of the moment, the knowledge that these colors had just appeared & would soon be disappearing to be replaced with dreary cold, was what made them even more spectacular. 

I wonder if that magical feeling would return if I took a step back from the busyness of life more often & just appreciated the view. If I took notice to the things that will only be here for a moment, & instead of feeling sad about that fact, I appreciated the beauty of endings, perhaps the finality of life would make it more special instead of sad. 

I wonder if the magic actually lives within us all, if we are just as beautiful & magnificent as the views I was admiring in Vermont, & all it takes to bring it out in each of us is a recognition of just how special we are. 

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Vermont fall road trip: Burlington & Stowe (days 1-2)

Me walking beneath a covered bridge in Stowe, VT

“If a year was tucked inside a clock, then autumn would be the magic hour.”

– Victoria Erickson

There is something special about October. The air gets cool & crisp. The leaves fade into vibrant hues of reds, oranges & yellows. There are brightly colored mums & creepily carved faces in pumpkins on every doorstep. It’s nature’s last show of its beauty & color before everything lies dormant in the winter, & it’s always a spectacular finale.

Despite living on the east coast for all of my life, I have never ventured north to see the leaves change. There has always been too much on the calendar, & before I know it, the leaves have already browned & died & the cold winter weather has arrived. This year, I was determined to not let another fall slip by unnoticed. So, shortly after arriving home from our trip to Montana, Joseph & I picked a weekend, booked a few Airbnbs, & began planning the ultimate Vermont road trip. 

The drive up to Vermont was long & uneventful. I always underestimate how long it takes to drive along the east coast. The states are so much smaller than their western counterparts, but somehow it seems to take just as long to get across them. It was nearly 8:00 by the time we arrived at the Church Street Marketplace in Burlington. We stretched our stiff limbs & hurried out into the night, eager to get in a little exploring before the day was fully over.

Church Street Marketplace, Burlington, VT

Lucky for us, it seemed the marketplace was just beginning to wake up for a long night of fun. Burlington is a popular college town full of cute shops & mouth-watering restaurants. We were unwilling to wait or spend a fortune on food our first night, so we settled to eat at Petit Bijou Kiosk, a little cart set up across the street from the Parisian restaurant Leunig’s Bistro that featured pastries, coffees, sandwiches, salads & other grab-&-go options. We ordered two sandwiches, which unfortunately were pre-made & cold, & truffle fries with pesto, which were the definite highlight of the meal. Stomachs satisfied after hours of driving, we headed up the lane, dipping into cute shops & admiring the lights that were strung across the trees. Before heading out, we stopped at Lake Champlain Chocolates for some truffles & maple chocolates. It was the perfect pick-me-up for the hour-and-a-half long drive to our Airbnb.

The following day, we headed out early, excited to get a head start on the day’s adventures. Unfortunately, it seemed the weather was not as eager for our visit as we were. We drove nervously underneath the dark, gray skies, hoping the rain would hold off until we finished our hike.

Our first stop was Mount Mansfield, the tallest peak in Vermont. I remarked at the beginning of the hike that this was a “baby mountain” – less than 4,500 feet in elevation. It seemed like nothing compared to the mountains we have seen out west, which sometimes measure over 14,000 feet. However, I neglected to remember that 4,000 feet is no easy task, especially when the rocks are slippery & footholds are scarce. Our boots slipped beneath us as we trekked up the mountain side, climbing precariously up & down rock faces & keeping our eyes determinedly facing up so as not to see the drop below us. We had grossly underestimated the amount of exertion it would take to climb this mountain, & then to also return back down. I had only brought one KIND bar with me, & Joseph had not brought a single thing to eat. 

I would like to report that the view was worth the hike. For the first bit of the trek up, it was. We sat on the rocks, hair standing on end from the chill of the cool mountain wind, gazing in awe at the valley below. Technicolor trees of orange, red & yellow covered the landscape. I wanted to sit there for hours, taking in the breathtaking view. I could have happily ended the hike there & felt fully satisfied. In fact, that’s probably what I should have done.

Me enjoying the view from the hike up Mount Mansfield

The rain clouds that had been threatening us all morning blew in as we approached the summit. Soon, we were lost within the cloud, only able to see a few feet in front of us before the landscape was immersed in gray, which is not ideal for traveling close to the edge of a mountain. We stepped carefully, rocks slipping below our feet & falling out of sight. I thanked my past self for one brief moment of wisdom from the beginning of the hike & gratefully pulled on my extra layers to warm my arms, which had grown numb from the cold.

Then, it started to pour. Heavy raindrops attacked us, seeping in through our clothes & chilling our bones underneath. The ground beneath our feet became even more slippery. We looked at each other & couldn’t help but laugh at our luck.

The bright side, if we could even find one in a raging storm, was that the rain did happen to bring out the colors of the leaves around us & make them even more vibrant. With nothing else to do & no way to get down the mountain faster, we accepted our fate & enjoyed the view. Peering through water droplets dripping off the brim of my hat, I soaked in the beautiful view & reminded myself this was what I had come for. We splashed down the mountainside & ran back to our car, & I thanked my past self for one more stroke of brilliance: I had packed a warm change of clothes.

Me at the Mount Mansfield summit gratefully eating a KIND bar

We changed quickly & drove to the Ben & Jerry’s Factory just as the rain was beginning to slow, stopping for some much-needed hot coffees along the way. Earlier in the week, I had attempted to buy tickets for the factory tour, but they had sold out before I was able to book them. For anyone attempting to do the tour, tickets are not released until promptly 11am on Tuesday the week before – not a minute earlier. I had woken up early Tuesday morning to book our tickets & had been dismayed to see they were not yet released. I checked again & again throughout the morning, but still, no available times. At 11am, I was in a meeting for work. When I revisited the site at 11:15am, all the tickets were gone. 

Still, if you are unable to book tickets, visiting Ben & Jerry’s is still a fun experience, & the best part is available for factory tour recipients & your average dessert lover: The ice cream shop. We stopped first at the Flavor Graveyard, a small plot of land with fake headstones bearing the names of discontinued flavors of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream. We spent a few minutes perusing & laughing at the comical descriptions of each flavor & its unfortunate demise. We then headed down the hill to the Ice Cream Shop. The line was long, but it moved fast, & soon we were seated on the patio, happily licking our ice cream scoops, which happened to be our first source of sustenance that day. I ordered the sweet & tart combo of Lemonade Sorbet & Strawberry Cheesecake Ice Cream, & Joseph ordered the caffeine-laden Coffee Coffee BuzzBuzzBuzz! & a scoop of the popular Half Baked

My Ben & Jerry’s dessert

After we had finished our dessert, we headed to Stowe in search of an actual meal. Many restaurants are fully booked on prime fall weekends in Vermont, but we managed to slip in to Harrison’s if we agreed to sit on the covered porch instead of inside the restaurant. We happily obliged – with the offer of warm food, an aptly placed heater just above our table, & a beautiful view of the iconic main street, what more could we ask for? We shared a bottle of the featured wine, a delightfully smooth Pinot Noir. For dinner, we shared the house salad to start. Joseph ordered the Harrison’s Burger, which was made with local beef & served on a crusty brioche bun with local Cabot cheddar cheese, fresh lettuce, tomato & red onion, & a tangy house made sauce. I ordered the sweet potato encrusted salmon, which paired beautifully with the wine & was just what I needed to finally feel warm after a day spent in the chilling rain. The pan seared salmon was topped with a sweet potato & ginger crust & served alongside a vegetable medley drizzled with a sweet & tangy maple balsamic glaze. 

After dinner, we spent a few minutes roaming the streets, drinking in the view & walking more times than necessary under the quintessential covered bridges. When it grew too dark to see & the shops closed, we took the remainder of our bottle of wine & headed back to the AirBnb to relax for the evening.

Despite the poor weather, our first day in Vermont did not disappoint. In fact, it truly was everything I had hoped for: Beautiful leaves, tasty local foods, & an oddly homey feel for a place so far from home. 

There is something special about Octobers – as the weather grows colder, we stubbornly bundle up in our sweaters & beanies, eager to soak up the last bit of the year before the weather grows too cold. We sip cider & pumpkin spice lattes & argue pointlessly over which is better. We gather closer & remember, even as the world grows colder & darker, that it still feels warm & cozy when we spend our days together. 

And as special as Octobers are anywhere, I must say, there is something extra special about Octobers in Vermont. Standing under the protection of a covered wooden bridge, gazing out at trees with leaves so brightly colored the eyes can barely soak them in, it’s easy to get lost in the magic of Octobers. And that is precisely what I am here to do. 

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Wyoming & Montana road trip: Bozeman (day 11)

Our final Montana sunset

If you had told me on the first day of this trip that I would ever appreciate a night’s rest in a sleeping bag, I would have laughed. All that comes to mind of that first night is tossing & turning my aching body, wishing desperately for something more separating me from the rocky, cold ground beneath. But after 10 long days of hiking, I don’t think I woke up once last night. We slept in, & I awoke blissfully rested & cozy in my sleeping bag, appreciating its warmth & comfort from the cold, mountain air.

Today’s only task was to drive back to Bozeman. The adventure is drawing to a close. After 10 days of climbing mountains, walking main streets & gazing at incredible stars, it is time to return home.

On our way, we stopped by Starbucks, & we were greeted with a fun surprise – the first pumpkin spice latte of the season. Fall is on its way. It’s a time of change, of bittersweet endings & new beginnings. It’s fresh, exciting & something I am actually looking forward to returning home for. As beautiful as the West is, there is no better place to be for fall than the East Coast to see the leaves change

The drive flew by as we chatted & listened to music. Most of the shops were closed when we arrived in Bozeman, but the restaurants were just beginning to open for dinner. We chose to eat at Plonk, an eclectic restaurant with inventive cocktails & delicious food. I ordered the Indian Paintbrush, a cocktail made with citrus vodka, sour lemon-lime & fresh raspberry purée. Joseph ordered the Whistle Pig Old Fashioned, which was made with Whistle Pig Rye, Whistle Pig Barrel-Aged Maple Syrup, bitters, & a lemon & orange oil. To commemorate our anniversary a few days prior, we ordered the Ploughman’s Platter, a charcuterie board with an array of delicious meats & cheeses. For dinner, I ordered the Grilled Salmon, which was served overtop grilled broccolini & topped with salt roasted beets & tangy horseradish cream. Joseph ordered the g.f.b., a burger made with local beef & topped with smoked cheddar cheese, house-made dill pickles, local greens, fresh tomato, citrus aioli, & spicy chimichurri & served with fried tri-colored fingerling potatoes. 

Our stomachs were full, but we couldn’t resist one more taste of local Montana ice cream. We stopped by Sweet Peaks for a scoop each & relaxed as we licked our frozen treats. The sun was still up, but we were too tired to keep exploring. Instead, we drove to our Airbnb to get ready for our flight home the next day. I fell back onto our bed & immediately sunk into the soft mattress with a satisfied groan. 

“Oh, wow, you’re not going to believe this,” I said.

“Is it good?” Joseph asked. 

“Don’t come to bed until you’re done packing, because you’re not going to get up after you feel this,” I said. I had forgotten just how comfortable a mattress was. Despite being sad to leave this beautiful place, my excitement began to grow just to have the comforts of home once again: A bed, a hot shower, a temperature-controlled environment. 

The trip was amazing, & I am sure within a few days, I will be ready for our next adventure. But right now, I’m excited for the next chapter of our lives. I’m excited to be home, to see the people I love & to see what joys this next season will bring. And most of all, I am grateful that no matter where this life takes me, I always have my adventure buddy for life by my side. 

Life is meant to be experienced & savored no matter where it takes you. From summiting mountains to long days at the office, every day is a new adventure, & I will always be grateful that I am one of the lucky souls that gets to experience it. 

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Wyoming & Montana road trip: Grinnell Glacier (day 10)

Me in front of Grinnell Glacier

There is a strange sort of time warp that happens when traveling. Every day is so long & exhausting, every moment filled with new experiences. And yet, before you know it, the final day has arrived, & you are wondering where the time has gone.

Today is our final day in Glacier National Park. Tomorrow, we will be headed to Bozeman, Montana to get ready for our flight home the following morning. As it is with all of our trips, I cannot believe how fast the time has flown by. And, as with any of other trip, we had the same hope for our final day of traveling – that this day, this hike, & this view, would be the best of all, the perfect finale for an epic adventure.

We woke up early to drive the three hours around Glacier National Park to Many Glacier. Along the way, we stopped at a roadside stand for some coffees & a very disappointing breakfast burrito. We arrived a little later than we would have hoped, & we both dressed a little too warm for the unexpectedly hot sun. It seemed we were off to a rocky start as we began our ascent up to Grinnell Glacier.

The Grinnell Glacier hike is strenuous, filled with multiple switchbacks as you work your way up the mountainside. As if that wasn’t enough to take your breath away, the views along the way up are marvelous. We found ourselves constantly stopping to look back at the dark green pine trees that surrounded vibrant blue water. I will never get over the views in Glacier – it is truly the most beautiful place I have ever been.

As we neared the top of the hike, the air grew colder. Despite having just hiked hours through hot sun in far too many layers, we found ourselves throwing our jackets back over our shoulders. As we rounded the final corner, we were hit by a harsh wind that threatened to blow us back down the way we had come. We stood at the top, teeth chattering & bodies shivering, gazing in wonder at the view before us. Dark rocks led the way to water so blue it looked like the sky. Floating soundlessly, barely causing a ripple, were large chunks of ice like miniature icebergs. High above, the white snow of Grinnell Glacier melted into a waterfall that cascaded down the gray rock to form the lake we now sat beside.

Joseph right after jumping into Grinnell Glacier Lake

It felt as if we had accidentally traversed into an arctic landscape. The light off the water & snow was blinding, & yet, I couldn’t help myself from continuing to gaze in wonder. I sat on the edge of the rock, my boots just out of reach of the frigid water lapping at the shore. Joseph, however, had something else in mind.

It was a baptism of sorts as he jumped into the freezing water. It’s been a long year of hard work, but coming home from this trip, he will be starting a new chapter of his life as a Clinical Mental Health Therapist, his dream job. I cannot even begin to express just how proud I am of his dedication & perseverance, & I am so excited to see what this next chapter of his life will hold.

Panting from the cold & shivering uncontrollably beside me, he pulled on his dry shirt & asked, “Are you going to jump in?”

“Absolutely not,” I said. As tempting as it was, I was perfectly content just soaking in the view in my blissfully warm hiking clothes. 

It was a race against the clock on our way back down the mountain. We were eager to get back to the other side of Glacier with still a little daylight left. Joseph & I were starving by the time we reached the bottom, but there was no time to stop for food. We ate a quick snack on the drive, & arrived at Lake McDonald just in time for a final Glacier sunset seated on rainbow colored rocks. 

It is hard to say goodbye to such a beautiful place. The mountains glowed orange, bathed in the light of the setting sun. We watched as the purple shadow slowly crept up the side of each mountain, submerging the Glacier landscape in darkness. As the tip of the final mountain slowly darkened, we bid farewell to this magnificent place. 

On our way back to our campsite, we stopped at Glacier Highland, a motel & restaurant just outside the park with homestyle comfort food. To start, we ordered the Hiking Poles, which were sticks made of pillowy pizza dough topped with fresh mozzarella cheese, an earthy pesto sauce, fresh garlic, & a drizzle with olive oil to finish & served with hot marinara sauce. After a long day of hiking, they were the perfect treat. For dinner, Joseph ordered the Huckleberry Hound, a burger served with the restaurant’s homemade barbecue sauce & topped with crispy bacon, sautéed onion, & gooey havarti cheese. I ordered The Ptarmigan, a Middle-Eastern style salad with farro, chopped cucumbers & chickpeas tossed with a lemon-dill dressing & sprinkled with feta cheese. Overly satisfied, we drove back to our campsite & crawled into our sleeping bag, eager for a long night’s rest.

Our final day in Glacier National Park did not disappoint. The day was long & tiring, but the views were so spectacular, I barely even recalled the difficulty of the hike or the long drive to get there & back. And as I began to think about the idea of returning home, I suppose that is a great way to think about approaching all of the days of our lives. They can be long & exhausting, filled with moments we would rather gloss over or forget entirely. Disappointing breakfast burritos can be the start to rather disappointing days if that’s all we remember. But there are other moments that seem too special to allow to be tarnished by the difficulties that brought us there. 

How much better would life be if, instead of trying to make ourselves forget the hard days, we embraced them as part of the hike up to the view we have been waiting for – the experience, the baptism & the start of a new chapter of our lives? It’s hard in the moment to recognize that, even though the trek is difficult, we are still headed to the top, getting closer & closer with every step. And as you skip down the mountain, there is no better feeling than realizing just how far you have come. 

Life in general is a bit of a time warp. The days are long & exhausting, but before you know it, time has flown by. So, before you get too much further in your adventure, take a moment to stop & appreciate the view. You only get it for so long, & that in & of itself makes it too precious to go another second without notice.

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Wyoming & Montana road trip: Highline Trail, Lake McDonald & stargazing (day 9)

Lake McDonald at sunset

One year ago, I woke up just as early as I did today with one thing in mind – marrying you.

I went for a run around the time you were waking up & making coffee in your hotel room. We deal with our nerves in different ways. But we were both thinking of the same thing.

I pinned sunflowers in my hair & you pinned one to your jacket. We spent the day surrounded by the people we love, but pointedly avoided one another. Divided only by a flight of stairs in the same house, it was tempting to see you, to talk about the excitement with you. You are the person I want to spend all my most exciting moments with. 

It was a humid, August day, but I didn’t notice. I only know because guests told me afterwards. I stood before you in a white dress under an arbor adorned with sunflowers, & I promised myself to you. 

We ate lemon cake, which was a mistake. I originally wanted lemon, but you hate anything citrus & I love you, so we chose peanut butter chocolate. But cutting into that yellow cake made us both happy because I love lemon, & you love me. 

We danced the night away with our friends & family. The night flew by faster than expected. When everyone gathered outside for the final send off, we danced alone under the twinkly lights, serenaded by Louis Armstrong’s “La Vie En Rose.”

Joseph & me dancing our first dance on our wedding day

Today, we woke up early, & we still had the same thing in mind.

“Happy Anniversary,” I whispered. 

“I was supposed to say it first,” you complained. 

“Oh, sorry. Pretend I didn’t say it yet.” We looked up at the dark canvas of our tent, listening to the early morning sounds of the woods.

“Happy Anniversary,” you whispered, & I couldn’t help but smile.

“Happy Anniversary.” 

I got ready & you made coffee. We drove into Glacier National Park, parked at Logan Pass, & began our trek into the mountains on the Highline Trail. It began with a narrow, rocky path with a steep fall to our left. We chatted with the other hikers & gazed out at the breathtaking view below. Our feet carried us above fluffy, white clouds & a valley bathed in pink from the early morning sun. We wound up the sides of mountains & over peaks, stopping to look down at cool glaciers, blue lakes & miles of pine covered mountains dusted in snow. 

As the sun reached the center of the sky, we stopped to rest, & you pulled your phone from your pocket to read to me new vows you had written. I cannot believe how much our love has grown. I thought at the altar, I loved you as much as I possibly could. But today, I love you even more than I did yesterday, & I know tomorrow, it will be even more still. My heart only grows you, & that is one of the many reasons I know we were meant to be together. You help me to be, not only myself, but the person I have always wanted to be. 

Me hiking on the Highline Trail in Glacier National Park

After our hike, we visited St. Mary for coffee & dinner. We ordered a glass of wine & toasted our year married & hopefully many more to come. As the sun lowered in the sky, we drove across the park to Lake McDonald. We sat together on the pebbly beach, gazing out in wonder at the colorful landscape before us. The setting sun was disappearing from the painted sky behind tall purple mountains, reflected into the clear, blue water below that rippled above rainbow colored stones. 

When the sky grew too dark to see, we walked to get ice cream – huckleberry for me & chocolate for you. We sat on a park bench together, happily licking our frozen treats & shivering because it was far too cold for ice cream. 

When we finished, we washed our sticky fingers & then drove to a nearby ranger station to participate in the park’s astronomy program. Amateur astronomers set up sophisticated telescopes so we could look at the stars, but headlights from nearby made it difficult to see & some rather overzealous participants made it difficult to learn. So we laid on the pavement a little farther from the group & just gazed up at the night sky together. We shivered as the air grew colder, but neither one of us wanted to leave. The stars were too beautiful & the night was too perfect. You offered me your jacket, & even though I refused, you draped it around my shoulders because you love me. And I snuggled close to you with a smile because I had planned this night for you & your fascination with the stars, & I love you. 

One year ago, I didn’t know what the next twelve months would bring. I couldn’t have predicted what our happiest & saddest days would be. I didn’t know what mountains we would be climbing, both physically & metaphorically. I didn’t know when the promises we made to each other at the altar would be tested, & I certainly didn’t expect how much more that would grow our love for one another. 

But I did know our love was true, and that no matter what life brought us to, I knew we would make it through together. Sunflowers & lemon cake, mountains & glacier lakes, stars & sunrises, arguments & compromises – it’s been a year of adventures, & I wouldn’t want to traverse this life with anyone else.

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Wyoming & Montana road trip: Logan Pass & Avalanche Lake (day 8)

Joseph & me taking photos on the Going-to-the-Sun Road

The mountains are calling & I must go.

John Muir

We have finally made it to the mountains!

Joseph & I awoke at 4:30am for our first day in Glacier National Park. If you plan on driving your own car through Glacier, early wake up times are a must. The parking at Logan Pass at the top of the Going-to-the-Sun Road fills up fast, & besides this lot, there is very little parking to the trails in this area of the park. We drove the 15 minutes to Glacier & then sat in the line of cars waiting to get in when the gates open at 6am.

The mist was heavy as we drove our car into the park. As we passed through the tall pine trees that surrounded either side of the road, we gazed up in wonder at the tall shadows that loomed ahead of us, only to realize a moment later they were mountains.

The drive up Logan Pass can be nerve wracking. There is a short barrier separating your car from the drop below, but as you wind higher up into the mountains, you begin to realize that barrier can probably do very little to impede a speeding car. The views, however, are worth it. It was like stepping into a fantasy world. Forested mountains stretched on as far as we could see, basking in the early morning light. Every so often, waterfalls would tumble down the sides of these majestic beasts. Below us, clouds floated between the trees.

When we arrived at Logan Pass at 7:15, the lot was already nearly full. We parked our car, pulled on an extra few layers to fight against the chilly wind, & began our hike to Hidden Lake

A good part of the hike had been made accessible with a wooden boardwalk that wound over the landscape. The only challenge was the consistent elevation. Every so often, we would stop to catch our breath & look back to watch the sunrise over the mountains behind us. Beside the boardwalk, pink, purple & yellow wildflowers swayed in the wind. 

Hidden Lake Overlook

We reached the Hidden Lake overlook & were dismayed to see the remainder of the trail had been blocked off due to bear activity. We learned later a grizzly bear & her cubs had made their home around the lake & were attacking hikers that came too close. However, the view of the lake was still worth it. The harsh wind bit at our exposed faces & hands, & yet, we still stayed rooted to the spot, staring down at the crystalline blue water surrounded by tall, green fir trees. Already, the views in Glacier National Park had stolen the show. Nothing we had seen yet in our trip even came close in comparison to these magnificent views.

Running ahead of schedule because our hike had been cut short, we drove the remainder of the Going-to-the-Sun Road to St. Mary. Just as we were leaving the road, we slowed to a stop behind a line of cars that had ceased driving in the middle of the road. Confused, we peered through our windows, only to spot a black bear right beside the road! He was happily eating leaves from a small tree & paid little attention to us. His black fur looked silky soft, & his snout was nuzzling into the leaves, looking for a good bite. We watched him eat for a few moments before we had to drive on to let the drivers behind us see, but the bear remained a topic of conversation for the rest of the day. He was the first bear I had ever seen, & I understand now why black bears are said to be big teddy bears – he was adorable & looked sweet enough to hug, although I am sure if I had approached him, I would have felt differently.

We stopped at the ranger station in St. Mary to talk over the itinerary in our trip with a park ranger. Many of the trails we had planned to hike had also been closed due to bear activity, & every other trail had high bear warnings, a risk it seemed we would have to take. We adjusted our plans & then returned to our car with a new, very important mission: coffee.

Just a two-minute drive from the ranger station was a coffee shop serving espresso. Joseph & I ran inside, eager for a caffeine fix. I ordered a slice of lemon bread & the largest size of an almond milk latte available. Joseph ordered an americano & a coffee bombolone, an airy, Italian doughnut filled with sweet, espresso cream & topped with chocolate ganache. 

After this, we took our time driving back over the Going-to-the-Sun road, stopping at overlooks to marvel at the views. One of our favorite stops was at the Sun Point Overlook, where we hiked a short distance up to a cliff side that overlooked St. Mary Lake. I have never seen water so blue! It truly looked like a photo from a travel brochure, overly saturated & edited to look appealing. But there it was, right in front of our eyes, against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains.

Avalanche Lake

For our afternoon hike, we chose to do Avalanche Lake. The trail had some elevation, but most of the hike was relatively easy. And the ending view was more than worth it. Being up close to that perfect blue water felt like something out of a dream. It was so blue it looked tropical, but surrounded by cozy pine & fir trees. It was something I have never seen before & still cannot believe is real. 

As we trekked back, the rain clouds that had been threatening to pour on us all day finally did. We scurried back to our car & decided to head out of the park early. Joseph suggested going out to eat, & because I had been dreading our evening freeze-dried meals all day, I happily accepted. 

We chose Backslope Brewing, a brewery just a few minutes outside of Glacier National Park with delicious, inventive food. For an appetizer, we shared the Labneh Plate, a mediterranean-style dish with fresh, creamy labneh cheese, a nutty pistachio mint pesto, salty kalamata olives, & soft, warm pita bread. I had to stop myself from eating the full plate so I could still enjoy our main course. For dinner, Joseph ordered the Fried Chicken Sandwich, which is pickle-brined, served with a tangy house slaw, a creamy aioli, & a spiced tomato glaze. For a side, he ordered the Garlic Parmesan Fries, which are served homestyle & have the perfect level of saltiness that keeps you grabbing for more. I ordered the Sunshine VegBurger, which is a house-made veggie burger served with a creamy aioli, spicy pepper jack cheese, bitter microgreens, a tangy wing sauce, fresh tomato, pickled red onions & pineapple, & a sunny-side up fried egg. Even though our stomachs were full, we couldn’t help but finish every last bite. 

Overly satisfied, we returned to our campsite & retired early to bed. We had another early morning awaiting us & a long hike through the mountains to look forward to the next day.

It feels good to be back in the mountains. The fresh air & sweet smell of pine is everywhere. Despite the cold, it feels cozy. There is a special kind of energy that exists in the mountains & calls to explorers & adventurers. It’s serene & yet bursting with life. It feels like home.

The mountains have called, & we are here to answer them. 

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Wyoming & Montana road trip: West Yellowstone & Whitefish (day 7)

Joseph enjoying ice cream at Sweet Peaks in Whitefish, MT

Road trips are exciting for the views, for the thrill of the adventure & for seeing new places. The part actually spent driving down highways in the car isn’t normally talked about. That was why the seventh day of our trip was not necessarily one I was looking forward to.

Today already had a stressful start. Three-day vehicle reservations to drive the Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park have to be made online at 8am the day ahead of time. There is almost no where in Glacier National Park you can go to without traveling this famous road. I have been stressed about this particular detail of our trip even before we arrived. I like to have everything I can booked ahead of time so we know where we are going & can just relax during our trip. But there was no option to book the reservations earlier, & I knew Yellowstone National Park would not be a great place to try to book – the cell service is spotty & wifi access is practically nonexistent. 

So, Joseph & I woke up at 4am, packed up our tent & hopped in our car to drive to West Yellowstone. There, we set ourselves up in Book Peddler & Coffee Cafe for some coffee, breakfast & wifi. Joseph ordered a breakfast burrito & vanilla latte, & I ordered a slice of vegetable quiche & an almond milk latte. The food was delicious & warmed our bones after another long night’s sleep in the cold Wyoming air. 

At exactly 8:00, I clicked to book our reservation. There were a few seconds that I waited, eyes wide staring at the circle going around & around on my screen, indicating the page was loading. And then, I breathed a sigh of relief – our reservation had been accepted. 

We packed up our things & hopped back in our car, ready to start the six hour drive to Whitefish, Montana.

The morning slowly dragged by into the afternoon. While we drove, we talked, made jokes, listened to music & played “My Cows” (our favorite road trip game & a perfect way to pass the time, especially when passing through lots of farms, as you do in Montana). One of my favorite new things to see in Montana were the “cow crossing” signs that dotted the road. As the drive went on, the jokes became sillier as we tried to stay awake after such an early morning & long trip.

“I like big butts & I cannot lie,” Joseph sang as we drove into Butte, Montana. “Look! They named it butt, & then they were like, ‘eh, we should put an “e” on that.’”

Joseph & I were hungry & tired when we finally pulled into Whitefish. We tried to walk the shops, but it was clear after only a few minutes of exploring that we needed food as soon as possible. We chose to eat at Casey’s, a sports bar that serves burgers, chili & more Montana favorites made with farm-fresh local ingredients. 

The Elk Chili at Casey’s in Whitefish, MT

We ordered a cup of the Elk Chili as an appetizer to start, & we scarfed it down as soon as it arrived. As I stated a few days ago, I don’t eat meat often, but the chili was seasoned to perfection & the ground elk was tender & juicy. For dinner, Joseph ordered a Whiskey Cowboy Burger, which was served with a sweet & tangy house whiskey BBQ sauce, gooey havarti cheese, & topped with a crispy, fried onion ring, all on a golden ciabatta bun. I ordered the Summer Greens Salad with a 3 Grain Roasted Pepper Veggie Patty. The salad greens were bitter & earthy, topped with sweet marinated cucumbers, crunchy walnuts, subtly sweet blueberries, salty feta cheese, & a delightfully tangy & sweet huckleberry vinaigrette.

Joseph & I were fully satisfied from our meal but could not resist the temptation to once again indulge in local ice cream. We visited Sweet Peaks, a local ice cream shop that features delicious seasonal flavors, all made with quality ingredients from the Montana mountains. Joseph ordered a waffle cone with espresso & chocolate ice cream, & I ordered a cup with two limited time flavors: Huckleberry Lemonade & River Boat. The Huckleberry Lemonade was a refreshing sorbet made with a sour lemonade & sweet mountain huckleberries – it tasted much like a cross between blueberry & raspberry lemonade. The River Float ice cream was creamy, with chunks of dutch-oven style honey butter cornbread & a fruity, tart swirl of blackberry jam. 

My ice cream from Sweet Peaks in Whitefish, MT

The clouds that had been looming above our heads began to release the rain they had been threatening for hours, so Joseph & I returned to our car & drove to our campsite. It was an Airbnb, with cabins & tent sites available, just a 15-minute drive outside of Glacier National Park. We pitched up our tent & then made a fire to sit & relax for the evening as we watched the stars appear. 

Despite having little planned for the day other than driving, day seven of our trip had not disappointed. I had enjoyed the hours spent in the car, listening to music & chatting with Joseph. And thanks to our early wake up time, we were able to spend a couple of hours exploring a main street & eating everything we could. 

Truthfully, even with the time spent in Whitefish, today still would not have been exciting at all had I not spent it with someone I love. Long, hunger-filled hours in the car can be brutally exhausting. But with Joseph, it was just another day of a very fun vacation. If nothing else, today was a reminder that travel is not about where you go, but who you adventure with. 

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Wyoming & Montana road trip: Mount Washburn & Mammoth Hot Springs (day 6)

Joseph & me hiking up Mount Washburn

The rain from the previous night continued into the early next morning. It was cold & wet when we awoke, the pitter patter of the water on our tent’s canvas walls singing like a lullaby & begging us to return to our warm sleeping bag. However, this was our last day in Yellowstone National Park, & we wanted to make the most of it.

Our first stop of the day was Mount Washburn. It was a long drive from our campsite, & by the time we reached the trailhead, the rain had stopped. We laced up our hiking boots, shrugged on our jackets, & began the trek up the mountain.

It was a chilly hike up, but the continual upward grade of the trail had us shedding layers after only a few minutes. All the while, we gazed around us at the breathtaking views of forested mountains illuminated by the warm glow of the early morning sun. As we walked, we heard an elk call through the trees, & we stopped for a few minutes, our breath hanging in front of us, hoping to hear the majestic sound again.

The clouds began to part just as we neared the summit. As we stepped onto the mountain peak, we were gifted with beautiful, clear blue skies & a gorgeous view of the valley below. Surrounding us on all sides were tall mountain peaks & fluffy white clouds. We had just enough time to take a few photos before the dark clouds rolled in again, obscuring our view.

Me at the summit of Mount Washburn

The hike back down the mountain went by faster than the trek up. As we walked, we were met by a group of middle school-aged kids, who we recognized as the group we had crossed paths with just a few days earlier. The same kid from the Fairy Falls hike looked at us, caught sight of Joseph’s Colorado hat, & asked once again, 

“Are you from Colorado?” 

“Nope,” Joseph said again, grinning.

“Wait, I feel like we asked them that before!” the kid next to him exclaimed. 

“She has a Maryland hat!” another kid exclaimed. Joseph & I laughed down the mountain. It was such a simple encounter, but the chances of running into the same kids for a second time, now on the last day of our trip in Yellowstone, felt almost fortuitous. 

After we finished our hike, we headed to Tower Fall for lunch. The overlook did not provide much of a view – we could just barely make out the distant falls through the foliage of the trees. Joseph & I gazed at the plummeting water for a moment before we could evade our hunger no longer. We grabbed our food from the car & set up at a nearby picnic table for some much needed sustenance.

Since we had some extra time to spare, we decided to visit the Mammoth Hot Springs. Much of the area is still closed due to flooding, but the area around the springs is thankfully reopened for visitors.

The Mammoth Hot Springs

As soon as we arrived, I was grateful we had come. The Mammoth Hot Springs are unlike anything I have ever seen. White & orange rock cascaded down like water, glistening in the sun’s light. We learned the incredible colors of the springs have been created over thousands of years as the hot water from the geothermal springs cooled & deposited calcium carbonate.

Walking around the springs, it felt as if we had traveled somewhere else in the galaxy rather than just another spot in Yellowstone. If I had seen photos of the white & orange landscape with barren trees poking out of the surface, it would not have taken any convincing to make me believe I was looking at Mars or another distant planet in our solar system. 

The hike itself is not one I would recommend. We took the Mammoth Terraces & Upper Terrace Loop Trail, & it led us over the service road around the park, which had quite a bit of elevation & no shoulder for us to walk. We were constantly on edge as cars came flying down the hill we were climbing. By the end of the hike, we were hot & tired & had unfortunately seen very little of the actual attraction.

After our hike, we drove back to our campsite to shower & buy some wine. This was our final night in Wyoming, & we wanted to celebrate. We drove back to our spot on Yellowstone Lake from previous day, laid out our towels & relaxed. We ate dinner & drank our wine, watching the sun set & the ducks swim in the serene, still lake. When the sky grew dark, we returned to our campsite to make s’mores. 

Just as we were scraping the marshmallows from out sticks with graham crackers & chocolate, the sky opened. Thunder rolled over our heads as rain poured down. We hurriedly doused our fire in water, grabbed our pajamas & dove into our tent. Soaked, laughing & happily eating our gooey, sweet s’mores, we leaned back with satisfied sighs. 

Our Yellowstone adventure has come to an end. I have never seen anything like the colorful springs & explosive geysers we saw on this trip. Everywhere we went in the park, there was something new to see, & I was amazed by just how variable the landscape was. From geysers to waterfalls to tall mountains, there was always something new to see & explore.

Me watching the sunrise over Yellowstone Lake

The trip is not over, but this chapter is finished. Thank you Yellowstone for the adventure. Walking on this ancient land, it felt much like traversing into a different time. Often on our trips, we get to connect with locals & other travelers, & we always deliberately try to learn about where we are visiting & the people that live there. But Yellowstone connected us to something deeper – a rich history & a place where many have stepped on the land before us. Yellowstone was the first National Park to exist, & I can only hope that it will continue to be a special place for people to visit for generations.

The world is growing hotter, & Yellowstone is no exception. Because of the pollution of the world, & the unfortunate deliberate pollution of some visitors, the park’s springs & geysers already look much different than they did before. Species of animals, such as the ptarmigan, have been forced to move because of the hotter temperature. It is not often we are able to directly look at the effects of global warming, but visiting Yellowstone gave us a clear look at what our existence on this planet & the way we have treated it has affected other species & our home.

Making a change now won’t bring back the Yellowstone of 100 years ago. But it can ensure that Yellowstone National Park is still a place our children & grandchildren can one day visit. It can ensure that species of animals will not go extinct & the ecosystems unique to this park continue to thrive.

I am a strong believer that small changes make a big difference. No one person can stop global warming or save our planet, but when many of us incorporate just a few sustainable living practices into our daily lives, it can truly have an impact on a grander scale.

It’s been 150 years since Yellowstone was declared the world’s first national park. Let’s work together to make sure it remains the unique landmark it is for 150 more.

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Wyoming & Montana road trip: Grand Canyon & West Thumb (day 5)

Joseph & me at Point Sublime in the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

It is rather typical of Joseph & I to plan way too much into our trip itineraries. We often find ourselves waking before the sunrise, hiking & exploring all day, & crashing into our beds (or in this case, sleeping bags) long after the sun has gone down. 

Today, we woke up at 5am in the hopes of seeing the sunrise in Hayden Valley. It’s a spot in Yellowstone known for great views of wildlife, & we were eager to visit before the crowds gathered. 

We took a little longer than expected to get ready, & we found ourselves racing against the clock to get to Hayden Valley on time. If nothing else, we consented we would still be able to capture some beautiful photos in the early morning light. 

On our way, we passed by Yellowstone Lake, & we could not help but stop to take in the view. Separating us from the still, silent water was a picturesque wooden fence. On the other side of the water, silhouettes of dark purple mountains stretched up to the blushing pink sky. We sat for a moment, drinking in the view, & then our jaws dropped in amazement. We had stopped at the perfect time. The sun crested over the mountain peaks, burning so bright we could barely look. It rose into the sky, sending a stream of golden light across the water. Joseph & I watched in awe, no longer concerned about our sunrise views in Hayden Valley. This was the perfect place to be. 

When we finally did resume our drive, we found Hayden Valley empty of wildlife, so we continued on to our next stop: the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

Me at Artist Point in the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

I am probably going to regret writing this, but when I visited the real Grand Canyon, I found it somewhat underwhelming. Perhaps it was because I had been literally running through red, orange & brown canyons for days in the unforgiving summer desert heat, or maybe it was because of where I was in the park (I have learned since visiting that there are better views of the Grand Canyon in certain areas of the park, & I was definitely in one of the less stunning ones), but when I had visited, I was somewhat disappointed by the big hole in the ground. I am not sure what I was expecting – something more grand? But all this aside, I was lowering my expectations as we arrived at the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, sure that this view would disappoint when compared to the national treasure it was named for. 

So, when I did step up to Artist Point, I audibly gasped in awe. The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone is stunning. Bathed in the yellow early morning light, the canyon has an ethereal quality that made it feel like something not of this world. In the distance, a large, rushing waterfall gushed into the valley below, forming a winding river that surged through the valley below. Lush green trees grew along the rocks, filling the yellow & white valley with spots of green. 

We hiked to Point Sublime, all the while gazing out at the arresting views of the valley beside us. Sublime Point, in my opinion, was not the best view (Artist Point, which is just an easy, quick walk from the parking lot, was more stunning), but the views all along the hike made the trek worth it. 

After hiking, we drove along the North Rim of the Grand Canyon to see some other views before driving to our next stop: West Thumb

Joseph at West Thumb Geyser Basin

All during the trip, we have seen geysers & hot springs. However, West Thumb had these natural marvels right on the edge of a lake! It felt strange to see this two very different elements collide. Standing on the boardwalk, we had steam rising from hot geysers to our left & a chill breeze coming off the choppy blue water to our right. 

After exploring, we sat at a picnic table nearby to eat our lunch. As we ate, we talked about what to do with the rest of our day as we came face to face with an unprecedented event in our many travels together – a free afternoon.

We thought of finding another hike to do, but we had already explored much of the park, & everything else we still wanted to do we had planned for following day. And so, with no plans & nowhere to go, we stopped by the general store to pick up some s’mores fixings for later & then headed for the lake. 

The black pebble beach was nearly empty. We tied up our ENO hammocks & gazed out at the rippling water surrounded by tall pine trees & dark blue mountains. We dozed as we swayed, a gentle breeze caressing us. When we grew cold, we laid out on the hot black beach warmed by the sun & watched the ducks swim. 

After a few hours of relaxation, we headed back to our campsite to eat dinner. Not long after, storm clouds rolled in, so we escaped to the safety of our tent. Joseph pulled out a deck of UNO! cards, & we stayed up, laughing & having way too much fun playing such a simple game. When we grew tired, we laid back in our sleeping bags & listened to the patter of rain our tent.

Days like today normally don’t happen when Joseph & I are traveling. There is normally so much packed into our itinerary, we don’t even have a moment to think about relaxing. And we enjoy it that way – there is always something new to do or a new place to explore. But today was a rare treat that we both enjoyed, & it reminded us of something even more beautiful – it is not the adventure that makes our travels special, but the time spent in one another’s company. 

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Wyoming & Montana road trip: Grand Teton National Park (Day 3)

Joseph gazing up at the Grand Tetons

When planning our trip to Wyoming & Montana, I honestly thought the Grand Tetons would be the most underwhelming part. Of course, they are “grand,” but I thought Yellowstone & Glacier would easily steal the show. However, our day spent in Grand Teton National Park had some of the most stunning views & amazing hikes I have ever been on.

We wanted to get an early start to our day, so we woke up before dawn in our Airbnb, took what would probably be our last real shower for days, & started the drive to Mormon Row.

The drive took longer than expected, & we unfortunately arrived far too late to take the sunrise photos we wanted. Still, the view was spectacular, & we managed to get a few romantic shots of the iconic barn in front of the row of snow-specked Teton mountains. The view was truly breathtaking. The mountains stretched high, the rocky fortress at the top looming down at us. The land below was quiet – it felt like a sacred space where the view of the mountains should be without any form of distraction.

Joseph taking photos of the Grand Tetons

Our next stop was Kelly, WY, an incorporated town not far from Mormon Row. The population is less than 200, & the town only consists of two businesses – a post office & a cafe. Unfortunately for us, the cafe did not open until noon, so our rumbling tummies had to wait to eat breakfast. We wound our car through the windy roods that led into Grand Teton National Park, eager for our first hike of the day. As we drove, we gazed at the magnificent Teton Mountains while listening to music, the windows rolled down & cool morning air blowing back our hair.

“I can’t think of a more chill moment than right now,” Joseph said as we listened to “Come & Get Your Love” by Redbone at full volume, singing along to the words & letting the moment sink in. We were finally back in the mountains.

Our first stop in Grand Teton National Park was Jenny Lake. We stopped by the camp store for coffee & a breakfast sandwich for Joseph. I ate some fruit & a protein bar we had bought from the grocery store. We packed our lunch at the car & then suited up with our Nathan Hydration Packs & headed to the trails.

The hike around Jenny Lake to Hidden Falls is one of the most beautiful I have ever done. Normally, on a hike, you are hiking through rather mundane scenery to get to the spectacular promised view. But on this hike, there was something to marvel at every step of the way. With the mountains on one side & the serene blue lake on the other, we were constantly turning our heads to gaze out at the view. Along the way, an orange fox ran across the trail only a few yards in front of us, & countless chipmunks & squirrels scurried around our feet.

Me hiking at Jenny Lake

Hidden Falls was a crowded spot. The majority of visitors had taken the boat across Jenny Lake & then did the short 1/2-mile hike up to the falls. Still, the waterfall was stunning. Cool, clear water cascaded down the rocks to a rushing river that cut through the landscape. Joseph & I stayed a few minutes to watch before finally trekking down towards the ferry.

We had decided to take the boat back to the mainland rather than hike all the way back the way we came. I think I would always like to take a boat back after my hike after today’s experience. The worst part of a hike is always the walk back after seeing the spectacular view, but today, the hike was over within minutes after over an hour of walking to get to our destination, & the trip back to the start was nothing but relaxing. We sat back, feeling the wind & spray from the water on our faces, & we drank in the view of the Tetons from our incredible vantage point.

We ate our lunch in the park, gazing up at the mountains, & then we went to talk to a park ranger at the Visitors’ Center. We had already completed our itinerary for the day & there were still hours left to explore the park. The kind ranger recommended a hike & scenic spot to visit, so we hopped in our car & drove to Jackson Lake

It was a short, figure-eight shaped hike, but the views were spectacular. The multi-colored pebble beach led to serene, still waters that reflected the mountains like a mirror. On the hike, we were met by a family of birds that ran right up to our feet looking for food. 

Me meditating at Jackson Lake

The afternoon went by faster than expected, & soon we had arrived at our campsite. We put up our tent together & then made our first freeze-dried meals of the trip. I am happy to report that it actually tasted really good! For our first meal, we had Creole-Style Chicken, & it was spicy & full of flavor.

We had a bit of a sweet tooth after our meal, so despite the dark clouds rolling in, we drove to the park’s general store to pick up some dessert. We went back to our campsite to get ready for bed, & we ducked inside our tent for the night just as the rain was beginning to fall. It wasn’t the quintessential night of camping we had wanted, with a crackling fire & star gazing. But lying in our tent, listening to the rain patter on our tent’s canvas walls, I couldn’t think of a more perfect night. It had been a full day of adventuring, & we were both exhausted. Like a lullaby, the rain lulled us into a much-needed night’s rest.

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