Philadelphia Overnight Trip: Cheesesteaks, Pretzels & Love

Me at the LOVE Sculpture in LOVE Park

What is love? 

According to Oxford Dictionary, “love” is “a feeling or disposition of deep affection or fondness for someone.” A quick Google search of “What is love?” will pull up a song by Haddaway, along with a number of articles & personal opinions from people across the globe. It seems that everyone is searching for love in this life. To love & to be loved is an intrinsic need we all have.

Months ago, I celebrated My Love’s birthday by gifting him tickets to The Avett Brothers’ concert in Philadelphia. I booked us an Airbnb for the night & suggested we make a short trip of it. We have a goal to visit all 50 states, & Pennsylvania has already been checked off of our list. However, we neglected to go to Philly during our first trip, so it seemed to be the perfect opportunity to explore The City of Brotherly Love

Since gifting the tickets, Joseph & I have gotten married & traveled up the West Coast from San Diego to Seattle, but a little overnight trip planned months ago still thrilled us. We packed our bags & headed out Tuesday afternoon to our small, private room near Drexel University

We were already hungry when we arrived in the city, & we had a few hours until the concert, so I suggested we try the iconic Philly cheesesteak. Since there seems to be a restaurant or food cart on every corner selling the sandwich, we did a little online searching for the best place to go before finally settling on Cleavers. We didn’t want to do deal with the city traffic, so we left our car at the Airbnb & walked the busy Philly streets to our destination. 

Cleavers is a specialty cheesesteak shop where you can get beef, chicken or vegetarian sandwiches. It was established in 2016 by a family that has owned & operated a cheesesteak manufacturing company known for its worldwide quality & service for over 35 years. The restaurant uses USDA domestic ribeye, fresh baked bread, & artisanal ingredients in all of its food. 

Porta Fresca sandwich from Cleavers

The sandwiches were huge, stuffed full of delicious ingredients seasoned & cooked to perfection. Joseph ordered the BBQ Cheesesteak, which was packed with ribeye steak smothered in a sweet & savory barbecue sauce & sprinkled with thick-cut bacon, with melted American cheese & thick, freshly fried onion rings on top. I ordered the Porta Fresca, a vegetarian option made with succulently prepared portobello mushrooms mixed with roasted red peppers & sauteéd spinach & topped with thick slices of fresh mozzarella cheese. Mouths watering, we devoured our sandwiches until our stomachs couldn’t hold another bite. 

We took an Uber to The Mann Center, an outdoor concert venue with a beautiful view of the Philadelphia skyline. At every Avett Brothers concert, the band commissions a local artist to design a limited edition poster for the performance. For this particular concert, only 200 were created for concert attendees, & thanks to our early arrival time, we were one of the lucky ones.  For the next hour, we strolled around the grounds, enjoying the warm, late-September air. As the sky began to darken, we finally found our seats & settled in for a musically magnificent evening. 

Me with our Avett Brothers poster at The Mann Center

To say the Avett Brothers are good artists is an understatement. Their music is art in its truest form. The lyrics are poetry. The instruments are played so expertly & yet lovingly that they go beyond just touching your ears & go straight to your soul. And the harmony in the voices reaches into your heart & draws tears in your eyes. All while listening, time ceases to exist – you are simply so entranced by the songs & music that you feel at one with it, & all you want is for it to continue to go on. 

Watching the band live was a truly cathartic experience. Every song they play is heartfelt & meaningful. The lyrics are written with care, the melodies matched perfectly to the message that is to be portrayed, & the harmony pulls everything together, using human voices to bring the emotion & connection to every listener. Sitting in the audience, I felt I connected to every emotional piece on the deepest level of my being, & it pulled to the surface every past & present hurt I had not dealt with. But by the end of the evening, these wounds had been treated like the most productive therapy session. With the ending encore song “No Hard Feelings,” we all stood & sang as one, Joseph & I in each other’s arms, singing both for ourselves & everyone in the room.

With love in our hearts — for ourselves, each other & our fellow beings — we left the venue with smiles on our faces. Despite the late hour & how tired we felt, we couldn’t help but chat animatedly about the performance for the next thirty minutes while we waited for our Uber to arrive. As soon as we arrived back at the room, we crashed into bed, ready for a long night’s sleep. 

The covered bridge in Wissahickon Valley Park

Our first stop the next morning was Wissahickon Valley Park, where we hiked a moderately difficult trail littered with large rocks & adorned with green trees just beginning to fade to the fall colors of red & yellow. The trail led us to a rushing waterfall & covered bridge, where we stopped briefly to listen to the water before heading back to our vehicle. The hike took longer than expected, & we were both hungry for lunch by the end. 

We wanted to try a Philly pretzel, so we headed to the Reading Terminal Market, a bustling indoor marketplace filled with locally owned shops. We went first to Miller’s Twist, a pretzel & ice cream shop. I ordered a classic Philly pretzel, while Joseph ordered a pretzel dog, chicken feta sausage, & cinnamon sticks. The golden brown pretzel was served warm, sprinkled with large cubes of salt that melted into the soft bread when I took a bite. I understand now why everyone raves about Philly pretzels – I had to stop myself from returning after my last bite to order more. Joseph’s chicken feta sausage was wrapped in the same delicious, aureate creation, & the meat was moist & full of flavor. As for the pretzel dog, I’ll just say that it made me want to eat hot dogs again. The cinnamon sticks were soft & just the right level of sweet, with a dash of cinnamon that made me dream of the cooler, cozy months to come. 

The regular Philly pretzel from Miller’s Twist

Next, we ordered coffees from Old City Coffee, & then, since I was still hungry after eating my one pretzel, we went to Kamal’s Middle Eastern Specialities, a family-owned restaurant of 30 years serving lovingly prepared dishes made with fresh ingredients. I ordered the falafel, which is made from chickpeas & fava beans that were soaked overnight & fried fresh every morning. It came with a small salad, creamy hummus, & a lovely & light green tabbouleh. 

Our stomachs now satisfied, we walked to LOVE Park, where the LOVE sculpture by Robert Indiana stands tall in the middle of the courtyard. It’s a well-known landmark of the City of Brotherly Love that was created in 1976. Joseph & I took our required tourist photo with the artwork, & then decided it was time to head home. 

What is love? All throughout this trip, I felt like I encountered it everywhere I went. From the beginning, when Joseph’s & my mutual love for music inspired me to express my love for him by gifting tickets to the band he loves most; to all of the local food we tasted, lovingly prepared in family-owned restaurants; to the concert, lovingly performed by a band started by two brothers who seem to understand the human heart on a deeper level than most, which I enjoyed while sneaking glances to my right of my love & feeling my heart swell to see him smiling so wide; to gazing up at a sculpture with the word itself painted in bright red. 

The LOVE sculpture at LOVE Park

What is love? Can it be a fleeting feeling like the butterflies at the beginning of a relationship? Can it be the underlying force of an argument between two people who know each other better than anyone else? Can it be an act of service for another human? Or perhaps it’s a shared look of two longtime companions, who in that moment can express their thoughts without any words or actions at all? Does it only exist when it is perfect & unconditional, or is true love imperfect & raw, the most basic & yet complicated human emotion? 

Love is not something that can be easily defined by Oxford dictionary, & yet, as the internet has proven, it’s something we are all trying desperately to define & understand.

To me, love exists in all areas of life. It is in the simple touch that lingers on Joseph’s shoulder when I pass from behind, to let him know, even in the busyness of my day when I’m rushing from one place to the next, that I’m thinking of him. It’s in the words of comfort & support that are shared between friends. Love is in the beauty of nature that surrounds us, lovingly created by the only true source of unconditional love we will ever know. And our imperfect, human love is in the desperate yells of a fight, when the two people involved know each other so well that their tongues can be used as both tools for reconciliation & irreparable wounds.

Love is messily splattered in all different colors across the canvas of our lives, & yet its these splashes of various moments, feelings & thoughts that make our experiences on this planet beautiful. It is the absence of love that causes us the most pain, & it is the experience of love that brings us the most intense joy. 

Perhaps what makes love most beautiful is that it cannot be simply defined. It’s more exquisite than a butterfly, unable to be pinned down & examined. Love cannot be put into words, but its an experience we all share. And I am finding in my life, the more we live for love, the more love we experience in even the most unexpected places. 

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Honeymoon West Coast trip: Olympic National Park & Seattle (Day 12)

Me on Mount Storm King looking over Crescent Lake

When your alarm goes off at 3am, you want it to be for something exciting. You don’t want your first reaction to be a pit of terror falling into your stomach. But that’s how my day began.

For the final day of our honeymoon, we had decided to hike at Mount Storm King in Olympic National Park. It was a hike that promised incredible views, but not without anything in return. The first challenge would be to hike two miles straight up – no places to take a break, & no level ground to give you a chance to catch your breath. I knew this part would be challenging, but I was more worried about the second challenge – a trek beyond the maintained trail, to where fellow hikers had set up ropes to help you climb to a rock scramble, which would then take you to the top of the mountain.

As I said in my post yesterday, I do not like heights. I like my two feet firmly planted on solid ground. I enjoy hiking to beautiful, high viewpoints, but I always stand away from the edge where I know my feet won’t slip. So the idea of scaling the side of a mountain with a rope that wasn’t maintained by the official park system terrified me. 

Joseph was not afraid at all. Despite the early hour, he bounced around our Airbnb with excitement about the upcoming hike & the incredible view we were going to get of Crescent Lake. Not wanting to make him miss out of the experience, I packed my hiking gear & we headed out to the truck.

The stars in northern Washington are amazing. I gazed up at the night sky as we drove, soaking in their beauty. They provided a great distraction for the majority of our drive, but as we neared the park, my nerves intensified to the point of frightened tears. 

I truly wanted to face my fears, & I did not want to disappoint Joseph, so I still insisted we do the hike. We were just about to leave the truck when Joseph frustratedly discovered that our headlamp had died. Walking up the narrow path in complete darkness with just a flashlight was not an option because there would be times we needed our hands free for assistance with climbing. I suggested we wait a little longer for the sun to get just below the horizon, so by the time we would need the headlamp, the world would be lighter. Joseph agreed, & we spent the next half hour gazing up at the stars in the bed of the truck, huddled together to fight against the cold.

The sign for the Mount Storm King trail in Olympic National Park

When it came time to go, I led the way with the flashlight while Joseph trailed closely behind. Hiking in the woods at night is spooky no matter where you’re headed, so it certainly didn’t help that my nerves were already intensified by our destination. We kept the conversation going to calm our anxious minds, & to potentially discourage any wildlife from getting too close.

Luckily, the sun began to rise not long after we started, & we heard another group of hikers not too far away. It is always encouraging to know you are not alone on potentially dangerous trails. 

Despite the difficult grade, the trek up the mountain wasn’t too bad. It passed by quickly with games & conversation. My breath was heavy, but my legs had been conditioned from marathon training & the last few days of hiking, & they carried me up the trail without any trouble. 

The sign “End of Maintained Trail” came sooner than I expected. I had almost forgotten what was to come, but as soon as I saw those words, the pit of fear dropped back into my stomach & I felt instantly nauseous.

We carefully stepped beyond the sign & began hiking upwards, watching our feet carefully. I reminded Joseph that this part of the trail was not maintained by National Park Services, so we needed to be extra cautious about where we placed our feet. We could no longer trust that rocks & stones that looked well traversed were trustworthy. At any moment, they could slip, taking us down with them.

I had thought we would arrive at the ropes quickly. I was unaware we had to hike to them, & it was that hike that broke me. The trail was so narrow I could barely fit my two feet beside one another, & to each side, steep drops meant a perilous fall. We were 2,500 feet in the air, enough to cause anyone’s stomach to drop when looking over the edge. Hiking next to the edge, I felt like my stomach simply fell out of my body & down into the valley below.

Heart pumping, legs trembling, & breath shallow, I slowly shifted my feet to climb up the trail. Every few moments, I dropped to my hands & knees to catch my breath, calm my nerves, & carefully crawl over the rocks, trying to look anywhere but down.

Joseph & me at the top of the maintained trail on Mount Storm King overlooking Crescent Lake

Joseph led the way slowly & cautiously, encouraging me every step of the way. We made it a little less than a quarter mile before my body froze beneath me in fear. 

“How much farther is it to the ropes,” I asked. 

“I don’t know,” Joseph said. “Why don’t you wait here, & I’ll keep going to see if I can see them?”

“No! You can’t go alone!”

“I will be fine.” Joseph turned carefully & began hiking up the rocky slope.

“Please, please be careful,” I called out, & Joseph assured me that he would be. Camera slung over his shoulder, he stepped slowly up the mountain & out of sight, peering around to see the ropes. I waited with bated breath, my heart pounding, waiting to hear any sound of distress & trying to determine what I would do first if I did.

Joseph returned moments later, shaking his head.

“We’re done,” he said. “I can’t see the ropes, but it gets super steep. Let’s go back.” I breathed a shaky sigh of relief, & slowly scooted back down over the rocks, covering my backside in loose dirt. As a comfort to myself, I tend to talk nonstop when I am nervous, often telling jokes, so the next few minutes were filled solely with the sound of my musings on the dangerous hike. It wasn’t until we were safely back on the maintained trail that I stopped & gave Joseph the tightest hug I probably ever have.

“Thank you,” I said. “I wouldn’t have called it because I didn’t want to disappoint you, but I’m so glad you did. I was terrified.”

“It was scary,” Joseph admitted. 

“I know you probably would have done it if I hadn’t been there,” I said. “I’m sorry.” I felt ashamed. My own fear had held us back from an amazing view.

“I would have, but who knows what would have happened,” Joseph said. “I wasn’t afraid until I got up there. You didn’t see it, but it got super steep & sketchy, & it was at that moment that I realized something could happen. Up until then, I knew we could do it, but when I saw that trail, I realized there was a possibility that we couldn’t.” He paused. “I’m sorry that I made you come. I feel bad. I knew how scared you were, & I still made you come.” 

“No, I wanted to do it!” I said. “I just didn’t want you to be disappointed if I didn’t feel comfortable at the top climbing the ropes.” 

Much of the hike down was more of the same sentiments being shared repeatedly. We both were disappointed in our own actions, & we both equally wanted the other person to know that we were okay with what happened. 

Our first moment as a married couple (Photo by Natira & Hannah Leigh Photography)

It wasn’t until we were nearly down the mountain that I realized how important this hike had been for our marriage. Up until now, the honeymoon had been almost complete bliss. We had enjoyed every moment of traveling, & the lessons we learned during our trip were important for us to apply to our individual lives. But this hike had taught us a lesson for our marriage: The ultimate level of trust where we put our lives, including our safety, wants & needs, in each others’ hands. 

I was scared to do the hike, but I trusted Joseph would get me to the top safely. I got up early this morning, laced up my hiking boots, and followed Joseph up the mountain despite my fears, planning on never asking to turn around no matter how afraid I was. And when we got there, he proved that he would always look out for me by making the decision to turn around rather than risk falling. Today’s hike had challenged us to look out for one another’s best interests & safety, & despite the fact that we missed out on the view at the top, we were still together. Hand in hand, husband & wife, we both knew through all the great adventures we would have, the best view will always be us standing by each other’s side through all of the exciting & difficult mountain climbs. 

Our next stop was Seattle. Because of traffic, we arrived late at the city, so we had just enough time to grab lunch before running to the Space Needle. We went to the Starbucks Reserve, which did not disappoint. It was a bustling hub of creativity & inspiration. The smell of coffee hung in the air, & all around we could hear the sound of beans roasting & people talking excitedly. 

My almond milk latte from the Starbucks Reserve

Joseph ordered pizza & a cinnamon roll for lunch, & I ordered a chicken & orange salad & a sourdough roll. For coffee, Joseph got a lightly sweetened & nutty hazelnut bianco latte, & I got my usual latte with almond milk. It seemed a little boring to get the same thing as always, but I knew I would love it, & the little milk foam heart on the top made it worth it.

For a fun experience, we ordered an espresso flight with truffles. It was much like a wine tasting, with two small cups of espresso & matching chocolate flavors to go with them. We popped the truffles into our mouths & took large swigs of the hot espresso to experience the full flavor profile, & I can honestly say, it’s some of the most fun I have ever had drinking coffee. Despite how rushed we were, I still took a moment to let the chocolate melt on my tongue & savored the creamy confection in created. 

We sped-walked from there to the Space Needle, arriving just in time for our elevator ride up to the top. The entirety of the top rim of the Space Needle is surrounded by glass tilted towards the ground below, so you have to do a bit of a trust fall to lean against it. Looking down on the world from that perch is exhilarating. We both knew if the glass wasn’t there, it would be a nasty fall, but from where we were, we had the best view of Seattle, unobstructed by anything but clear glass that we could barely see even if we focused on it. 

We walked down the stairs to the level below, a room with a rotating glass floor. Stepping onto the clear platform & looking down at the ground below was even more disconcerting. The spinning room made both of us feel a little dizzy & nauseous, but we couldn’t resist staying for a few minutes to watch the ground move beneath us. 

The Space Needle

Our next stop was Chihuly Garden & Glass. I had seen Chihuly’s art in the Fred & Pamela Buffet Cancer Center in Nebraska during my 4K for Cancer journey, & I have continued to periodically think about it over the last two years because of how incredibly beautiful it is. My awareness of blown glass art before witnessing Chihuly’s work was bowls & glasses sold at the Renaissance Festival. Chihuly created an entire garden for the patients at the hospital to enjoy, full of large, brightly colored flowers & intricate chandeliers hanging from the ceiling. When I discovered that Chihuly had a gallery in Seattle, I knew it was a must-see experience.

My reward was seeing the look on Joseph’s face when we walked in. Just as it had been for me the first time I saw Chihuly’s art, Joseph’s jaw dropped & eyes widened as he took in the tall blown glass sculptures & intricate works of art. There is simply no way to encapsulate in words just how gorgeous Chihuly’s work is. Every piece is thoughtfully created, pieced perfectly together. It is intricate art, lovingly created by someone who is clearly a master of his craft.

After exploring the gallery & watching a highly entertaining demonstration, we finally decided to call it a day. The quintessential Seattle rain had begun, & we walked through the streets in a light drizzle, our clothes getting wet but the chill never quite seeping through. We stopped by the original Starbucks as a testament to our love for its coffee & a nod to our souvenir of choice. Unfortunately, they did not have the mug we wanted in stock, but we knew we could get it another time. We ordered takeout sushi from Maneki, the oldest sushi restaurant in Seattle, & then headed to our Airbnb in Kent

Our host was delightful. She had set out a bottle of sparkling cider & chocolates for us to enjoy, & she kindly let us use her backyard patio & hot tub. We ate our sushi (which truly was the best I have ever had – never have the many different flavors in a roll melded so beautifully together) next to the fire & then dipped into the hot tub for a relaxing soak. We were both exhausted by this point, having been awake & on-the-go for 20 hours after an already sleep-deprived two weeks, so after fighting to stay awake for a few minutes in the hot water, we decided to retire for the evening & go to sleep.

The final day of our honeymoon adventures was exciting in so many different ways, but what I loved most about it was I felt that it helped us to feel ready for our journey home tomorrow, when our married life together will officially begin. The little trust fall (thankfully without actually falling) that we had on our hike this morning taught us more about what it means to be husband & wife, & the day beyond that point was filled with a renewed sense of unity & love that I hope will stay with us long after this adventure ends. 

The honeymoon has come to a close, but getting on that plane tomorrow means a lifetime of new adventures with the love of my life. For that, I would be willing to go on hundreds more terrifying hikes, as long as I have him by my side.

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Honeymoon West Coast trip: Mount St. Helens & Port Angeles (Day 11)

Mount St. Helens

We have finally arrived in Washington, which means the honeymoon is nearly over. I can’t believe how fast the time has passed. Nearly two weeks ago, I was standing under an arbor adorned with sunflowers, saying my vows, & since then, I have flown across the country & traveled up the coast from San Diego all the way to Washington, exploring new places & going on new adventures every day.

Today started with a hike at Mount St. Helens. The reddish brown landscape was dotted with a few trees, but still seemed rather barren for Southern Washington. Mount St. Helens towered high above us at an impressive 8,366 feet, about 1,300 feet shorter than it was before the 1980s eruption (USGS). Like Mount Hood, Mount St. Helens is a stratovolcano, & it was dormant since the 1850s until May 1980, when an earthquake triggered the largest landslide ever recorded & a volcanic blast that took the lives of 57 people (EarthSky). Seeing the collapsed face of the volcano was both mind-blowing & haunting knowing the history of the event.

The hike was uneventful. It led us along the landscape around Mount St. Helens all the way to Spirit Lake, so we got a few good views along the way, but nothing as spectacular as climbing the volcano would have been. My favorite view was actually not of Mount St. Helens, but of the many red & yellow flowers that grew alongside the trail next to Spirit Lake. With colorful flowers in the foreground, a blue mountain range in the background, & a still, serene lake in the middle, I thought it was the best view of the day. 

The flowers along the trail beside Spirit Lake

After hiking, we ate a quick lunch at the truck & then started our long drive to Port Angeles. Mount St. Helens is near the bottom of Washington, & Port Angeles is at the top, so we had a lot of ground to cover. We listened to music & chatted to pass the time, every so often gazing out the window in wonder at the beautiful views. The West Coast really is everything I ever wanted it to be. The mountain-dominated views are stunning, the air is clean, & the water is somehow bluer than it is in Maryland. It is truly spectacular. 

We stopped by our Airbnb first to drop off our belongings. The private suite was in a wooden home designed to look like a log cabin. The outdoorsy yet cozy ambience made us feel right at home. 

We showered quickly & then headed to Dupuis’ Restaurant, the oldest restaurant in the area. It has been in operation for 101 years, & we sat at a booth that has been there since the beginning. The food can be best described as Washington’s version of southern comfort. We ordered large, Dungeness crab cakes that were so soft & buttery, I didn’t even mind that they weren’t the Maryland version. They were served with a fruit compote that paired beautifully & was delicious all on its own – I saved it to smear on my soft, honey-buttered roll. For dinner, Joseph ordered fish & chips that was fried to perfection, & a small bowl of chicken noodle soup with soft, homemade noodles. I ordered sauteéd prawns that were served in herbed butter with a warm rice pilaf & a side salad. The meal was satisfying & hearty, the perfect end to a long day. 

Dungeness Crab Cakes from Dupuis’ Restaurant

After dinner, we drove into Port Angeles, a town situated beside the water at the very top of Washington. From the pier, we could see the lights across the water from Canada’s coast. I had never been so far North in the United States before, & seeing another country so close was for some reason a very exciting experience. 

Many of the shops were already closed, so we just walked around in the chilly night air to take in the sights. The water was calm & the sound of the waves lapping at the land were soothing. 

We didn’t stay long because we had made very early plans for the following morning. To make the most of the final day of our honeymoon, we had decided to wake up at 3am to hike Mount Storm King in Olympic National Park before heading to Seattle for the day. The hike was going to be challenging with a daunting end. After two miles headed straight up (at an 18% grade!), the end of the hike promised beautiful views, as long as you were willing to take a risk. Beyond the end of the maintained trail, fellow hikers had set up ropes to aid you in climbing up to the top of the mountain peak. 

To be honest, I am terrified. I do not like heights. I hiked Angel’s Landing in Zion two years ago, & it took a lot of convincing to get me to the top. When I finally did muster the courage to attempt the narrow climb, my sweaty hands clinging as hard as I could to the chain provided, I made it to the top literally on my hands & knees, trembling & unwilling to even crawl to the edge. But I made it, & at Joseph’s excited insistence, I agreed to attempt to climb Mount Storm King

It will be, after all, the final day of our honeymoon, after a two-week adventure, & we would like to end it with a moment & a view we will always remember. I just really hope this adventure doesn’t have any unexpected challenges because the ramifications could mean an end to our explorations. 

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Honeymoon West Coast trip: Mount Hood & Portland (Day 10)

Mount Hood
The Little Blue Engine by Shel Silverstein

The little blue engine looked up at the hill. 
His light was weak, his whistle was shrill.
He was tired & small, & the hill was tall,
And his face blushed red as he softly said,
“I think I can, I think I can, I think I can.”

So he started up with a chug & a strain,
And he puffed & pulled with might & main.
And slowly he climbed, a foot at a time,
And his engine coughed as he whispered soft,
“I think I can, I think I can, I think I can.”

With a squeak & a creak & a toot & a sigh,
With an extra hope & an extra try,
He would not stop - now he neared the top - 
And strong & proud he cried out loud,
“I think I can, I think I can, I think I can!”

He was almost there, when - CRASH! SMASH! BASH!
He slid down & mashed into engine hash
On the rocks below…which goes to show
If the track is tough & the hill is rough,
THINKING you can just ain’t enough!

Joseph & I both jumped out of bed late this morning in a panic. We had missed our alarm & woken up late. We rushed out of our Airbnb, leaving at the time we were supposed to start hiking at the park, which we still had to drive two hours to reach. 

Our plan was to hike Mount Hood. We didn’t plan to reach the top – to summit, we needed a permit & gear that we didn’t currently have. But we still wanted to hike up the side as far as we could to see the view.

Mount Hood has a truly commanding presence. Standing nearly 8,000 feet in the sky, its gray peak draped with snow, towers over everything else in the landscape.

The first bit of the trail was challenging but not difficult. We chatted as we climbed over fallen trees & admired the view. The trail had been marked as strenuous, which seemed inappropriate until we realized that over half of the elevation (over 1,000 feet) was reserved for the final half-mile of the trek upwards. We slipped & slid on the face of the mountain as we scrambled over rocks & climbed over precariously stacked boulders. At times, it was difficult to see if we were still on the trail from our precarious perch. 

Joseph hiking up Mount Hood

Our exhausting trek was rewarded when we reached McNeil Point. Clothes & boots covered in dust & faces streaked in dirt, we stood, out of breath, watching hawks soar beneath us in the valley below. From our height, the trees looked like shrubs in comparison to Mount Hood’s tall peak, which still towered high above us. Bright flowers were sprinkled all along the side of the mountain, while in the distance, we could hear water cascading down the mountainside from the melting snow above. 

It was tempting to keep climbing the mountain to see more of the view, but we were already running late to drive to Portland for the evening. Summiting was still not even a possibility, even if we cancelled are plans, but it still managed to continue to come up in conversation as we began the walk back down. 

With aching feet & tired legs, we rushed back to the truck & started the drive to Portland. We had been out of service all day, so I hurriedly texted our Airbnb host with our updated arrival time & my friend & 4K for Cancer teammate, Madison, with our updated travel plans. Mads lives in Portland, & we had made plans to meet her for dinner. Luckily, our late arrival worked with everyone’s plans, & we still had time to stop at our Airbnb & shower before we went to dinner.

Me, Mads & Joseph in Portland

I had not seen Mads in nearly two years, both because of the distance between us & COVID-19. Seeing her again after all this time & once again hearing her infectious laugh brought such joy to my heart. She treated Joseph & me to dinner at Grassa, a local Italian restaurant that serves inventive, homemade pasta dishes. I ordered the Spaghetti Al Pesto, which was rigatoni noodles laden in rich olive oil & homemade basil pesto, sprinkled with toasted hazelnuts, & topped with zucchini strips, basil & creamy mozzarella. Joseph ordered the Pork Belly Mac & Cheese, & we got a side of big meatballs in marinara sauce to share. Mads ordered the Cacio E Pepe, a truffle butter pasta topped with grana cheese.

We sat outside & enjoyed the small town feel of Northwest Portland. Conversation lingered on all of our latest travels – the honeymoon for Joseph & me; Alaska, West Virginia, & many more for Mads. We caught up about the latest in our careers & lives. Mads works at Nike as a Design Engineer, but she also recently began coaching a high school cross country, which is a great fit for her. During our run across the country, Mads was one of our team directors, meaning she helped lead our team through that physically & mentally demanding journey. Her energetic & kind spirit helped us feel at home when we were all so far away. 

After dinner, Mads led us up the street to Salt & Straw, an iconic Portland spot that serves imaginative ice cream flavors. In addition to their regular menu, they have a new theme every month which offers a selection of new ice cream flavors. This month’s theme was Camp, which featured Salted Hazelnut Praline S’mores, Cowboy Coffee Grinds & Bourbon, Maple & Bacon Streusel, & Mushroom Muddy Buddies, as well as Bug Juice! Sorbet. Mads ordered the Bug Juice! Sorbet, while Joseph ordered a split scoop of the Cowboy Coffee Grinds & Bourbon & the Maple & Bacon Streusel. I couldn’t help blending two flavors as well & ordered the Bug Juice! Sorbet along with the Strawberry & Coconut Water Sherbet, both of which were vegan

Ice cream from Salt & Straw

I have honestly never tasted creamier, more delicious ice cream. The Strawberry & Coconut Water Sherbet was full of sweet, strawberry flavor balanced by the refreshing subtle notes of coconut. Despite the creamy consistency, the first word that came to mind when I tasted the Bug Juice! Sorbet was “juice.” It was a fruity blend fo cherry & grape with just hints of sour lime. The two flavors paired perfectly – I finished my scoop much too fast & wanted to return inside immediately to try more flavors. 

The night was ending quickly, so we gave Mads a bittersweet farewell & headed back to our Airbnb to crash for the evening. All along the drive, our conversation traveled between our long hike today, & how we still want to one day summit a mountain, & my 4K journey, which now after two years is still one of the most difficult yet rewarding things I have done in my life. 

4K was much like traversing my own mountain. All along the way, there were beautiful views, but the trek was still challenging & left me feeling exhausted but exhilarated at the end. And then, after the summit, the climax of reaching home, the descent was still difficult & less enjoyable. Leaving all the people I had spent seven weeks with & returning to normal life came with its own challenges. Luckily, I had people like Joseph to walk through the descent with me, which always makes the journey down the mountain seem quicker & more enjoyable.

While climbing the mountain today, I was reminded of a poem by Shel Silverstein that I read as a kid & thought about during 4K. The Little Blue Engine always seemed to be discouraging, but I think today I understand it as actually validating. There are some mountains in life that we summit, & then there are mountains that, as much as we want to & think that we could, we just can’t reach the top. Sometimes we have to put in more hard work, much like I did on 4K. But others, like the mountain today, perhaps we were never meant to summit, but to just enjoy the view during our journey. Not all mountains are meant to be climbed. For some, we just have to appreciate how grand they are & remind ourselves that it’s okay if we don’t succeed at everything we try to do in life. Our strength is not measured on the mountains we summit, but in our character when we attempt to climb them.

My 4K team on the last morning of our run

The thing that struck me most about The Little Blue Engine is that he tried to conquer the entire mountain by himself. For all the mountains I have ever summited in my life, I always had other people there, either climbing with me or cheering me on. I could not have made it through 4K without my teammates running with me. I would not be where I am today without my family & friends who have supported me all these years. And there are so many mountains I am facing now, both literally & metaphorically, with Joseph by my side. 

Mountains aren’t meant to be faced alone. The journey is so much more fun when there are other people on it with you, & the summit looks even more beautiful when you have someone you love by your side. 

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Honeymoon West Coast trip: Crater Lake & Hood River (Day 9)

Crater Lake

Traveling into Oregon, the thing that struck us first was the smoke

It hung low in the air, obscuring the views of mountains in the distance & leaving a lingering smell of ash. 

Our first stop was Crater Lake. The hike was short but strenuous, straight up a rocky trail with a sharp drop to both sides. A wrong step could mean a nasty fall. Though my breaths were heavy & exhausted, I could not help continuing to exclaim how beautiful the view was. Blue mountains overlapped in the distance while pine trees stood tall below. Between the rocks, yellow & red flowers dotted the side of the mountain & swayed in the breeze.

When we finally reached the top of our hike, we teetered towards the edge, taking in the view of the still, blue lake surrounded on all sides by tall, forested mountains. Interrupting the glassy appearance of the water was one, small mountain that grew out of the center of the lake. 

Crater Lake was a place we had been looking forward to visiting for the promised majestic views. And it was beautiful, but I cannot even imagine how stunning it would have been without the tint of gray that hung over the entire landscape, sometimes so thick that we couldn’t see the blue lake below. 

Crater Lake

When our thirst for the lake view had finally been quenched, we started slowly back down the side of the mountain, still stopping every once in a while to gaze out at the arresting views. When we arrived back at the truck, we ate a quick lunch & then began the long drive to Hood River.

Until today, I was not aware that Mount Hood is not just any mountain – it’s a potentially active stratovolcano, meaning it is an elevation of the earth’s crust built by layers of lava & ash. According to ScienceDaily, stratovolcanoes have occasional, explosive eruptions, but the lava is so viscous (meaning it is a thick & sticky consistency) that it does not travel far before hardening completely. Mount Hood has not had a major eruption since the 1790s (U.S. Geological Survey [USGS]). 

Mount Hood is our destination for tomorrow, but it still dominated our landscape today with its commanding presence. Mount Hood stretches nearly 8,000 feet into the sky, but its total height is actually over 11,000 feet (USGS, Peakbagger). It is the 28th most prominent peek & the 13th highest point in the United States (USGS). 

It was difficult to capture the view in our cameras. The gray of the mountain blended with the gray of the sky, so we accepted this view as just for us & simply appreciated its beauty during our drive. 

Our Airbnb was incredible! We had gotten a master suite with a private bathroom, walk-in closet (that we didn’t use), a large bedroom, & a separate room with couches, TV & a fireplace. Downstairs was a home theatre, a gym, &, our favorite addition, a heated pool! Joseph & I didn’t have the chance to do much swimming this past summer, so before we headed to dinner, we both couldn’t resist a dip in the water. We splashed around for a bit, & then changed into nicer clothes for a dinner at Hood River.

Mount Hood sign (Photo by Zaron on Unsplash)

A lot of the restaurants were closed because of COVID-19 or Labor Day weekend. We had initially wanted to go to pFriem Family Brewers, but they were full. Luckily, the hostess had a wonderful recommendation for another local restaurant not far away – Riverside. There was a bit of a wait, so Joseph & I took the opportunity to walk around Hood River & watch the setting sun over the water.

I have never seen such a beautiful & yet devastating view. The sun had turned burnt orange & barely managed to light the sky. Instead of its normal glowing rays, it was a perfect sphere, so much so that I could have mistaken it for the moon. During our walk, it hung low just above the mountain tops, where it reflected into the rippling water below. It was a picturesque view, yet we both knew it was caused by the raging wildfires not far away. 

We had been seeing this type of sun now for months off & on, all the way across the country in Maryland, but this was the first time I had seen it so clearly & truly taken in what this view meant. Now realizing this, I wondered just how far away this type of sun could be seen. Was it visible in other countries? Could you see it across the globe? It was as if the earth knew one part of it was in pain, & it wanted to let the rest of the world know. Ironically, it seemed like it was earth’s way of sending smoke signals. 

We ended our evening at Riverside for a delicious dinner all made with fresh, local ingredients. It started with the best bread I have ever tasted (which they make in house every day), served with olive oil & balsamic vinegar. I have to say, I am part Italian, so I have had this appetizer many times before, but never has it tasted so amazing. For an appetizer, we ordered bacon wrapped dates, which were served stuffed with marcona almonds & soaking in honey. It was the perfect blend of sweet & salty, with a lovely nutty finish. 

Piquillo Peppers from Riverside

For dinner, I ordered the stuffed piquillo peppers, which were soft, roasted peppers stuffed with creamy quinoa & roasted vegetables & drizzled with a creamy, spicy, orange sauce. The dish was entirely plant-based, which is a diet I try to mostly stick to when I am home but have been breaking for this occasion because it isn’t the easiest to keep while traveling. I was wary of ordering the dish because I often find restaurants struggle to enhance the flavors of plain vegetables & grains without meat or dairy, but this dish was delicious & one I would definitely order again.

The restaurant was directly beside Hood River, which provided a gentle breeze & a lovely ambience for our evening. Just beside us was the bridge that led from Oregon to Washington, & throughout the evening, we watched the cars’ lights reflect in the still water below & listened to the sounds of a distant train in Washington chugging by. We were also supposed to be able to see Mount Hood from where we were sitting, but once again, the smoke had obscured this view. 

Often on my blog, I talk about the importance of self-love & loving others. Today, what struck me most is how important it is to love our planet. The earth is literally on fire right now, & many of us, myself included, are just continuing on with our daily lives. 

I think for me, one of the hardest things is that I don’t know what to do to help, & when I think of ideas, I’m not sure what kind of difference they will make. I am not a firefighter – I can’t help fight the wildfires. I am not a politician, so I can’t help write legislation that will change carbon emissions or make us more eco-friendly as a country. I am not an engineer, so I can’t help make cars that run on electricity or homes that run on solar power. 

But I think the most important thing to remember is that we all do play a role. Every little bit makes a difference, & some of the changes can be simple to make. Maybe it isn’t realistic for you to carpool to work, but maybe you can be more mindful of unplugging electronics you aren’t currently using in your home. Maybe you don’t want to eat plant based, but you could switch your household cleaners to eco-friendly ones. There are so many ways to help save this planet, & it’s good for you, too! I forgot how much better my body feels after eating a plant-based meal, but today, I was reminded of how often what’s best for us & the planet overlap. 

Even when we are on the road traveling, we have two homes: Our body & the earth. Make sure you are loving them both the way they deserve. 

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Honeymoon West Coast trip: Redwoods National & State Parks (Day 8)

Me hugging a redwood tree

The air is crisp & clean. It’s icy fingers stretch down into my lungs, freezing my chest but for some reason making me want to breathe in deeper. The sky is gray. Dense clouds hang low above our heads. The smell of pine lingers, foreshadowing the coming colder season. In the distance, I can hear small animals chattering to one another & scuttering along the forest floor. 

I outstretch one hand & run it against the rough bark of the tall, majestic giant standing before me. The tree seems to almost radiate a reddish glow, filling my chilly form with a wondrous warmth. I look up. From where I stand, I can just barely see where the top branches reach the sky above. 

I wrap my arms around the trunk. They do not even travel halfway around its base. I press my ear against the bark & pull my chest in closer, listening for the hum inside, matching the beat of my heart to the beat of the life inside this ancient resident of earth. It has been standing here since long before I was even imagined, & it will remain here long after I leave this world, every year growing a little taller, a little wider, a little stronger, a little more majestic. 

Me in a redwood tree

When I was a little girl, I was infatuated with trees. I imagined that I could talk to them, & I would spend hours playing outside with my imaginary friends in the forest. And the trees I dreamed most of meeting were the stately redwood trees in California

I have finally arrived, nearly 20 years later, & while I am older & wiser now, I do still wonder what these trees would tell me if they could talk. What would they say, after seeing the earth change over the last few thousand years, to someone like me, who can’t even comprehend how long that actually is? 

Perhaps they would tell me that life is so much simpler than I make it to be. That in that forest, as much as the world seems to be different, a lot has also remained the same. We all grow, we breathe, we love, & we die. Everything else is not required. When compared to all that has happened on planet earth, the things I worry about in my daily life would not even equate to the width of one ring in their trunk. It does not mean those things are meaningless, but perhaps they are also not worth the worry lines in my own face. Life is beautiful & meant to be savored. 

So, when the busyness seems to consume you, & the worries of life are all you can think about, come back to this place. Center yourself. Feel the sun on your skin, the beat of your heart, the air moving in & out of your lungs. Ponder your humanity, & how fleeting it is, & remember that is one of the things that makes it beautiful. Stand tall & grow with confidence. And finally, know that your life is deeply rooted to many others who were here long before you, & who will be here long after you are gone, & that alone gives your fleeting existence on this earth meaning & purpose. 


Joseph & I spent the day today exploring Redwood National & State Parks – we did a 13-mile-hike, & then drove, exhausted, to our Airbnb in Medford, Oregon, where we crashed for the night. In lieu of trying to capture every little detail of our day, in which it seemed nothing much happened, I though it better to capture what I felt during our hike, gazing at those majestic trees & feeling the sense of wonder I always had as a little girl when I saw pictures of them. 

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Honeymoon West Coast trip: San Francisco & Redwoods National & State Parks (Day 7)

Joseph & me in front of the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco

There is a famous saying that claims once you leave home, you can never go back. It wasn’t until I was an adult who returned to living at home during the pandemic that I understood this phrase. You can always go back, but it’s not the same as it was. You can’t go back to being a kid. The memories you have growing up in your childhood home are completely different from the new ones you make when you return. 

I think this is true of all memories, not just the ones compartmentalized to your childhood home. Any significant period of your life has a certain magic to the memories. But, returning to that place does not make the magic come back. Just a quick visit to your old high school is a great example of this. You can walk the halls, talk to old teachers, sit on the bleachers where you cheered during football games & maybe snuck your first kiss, but it doesn’t feel the same as it did in those four short years of your life when you felt invincible. 

Joseph & I started the seventh day of our honeymoon to try to experience an old memory of mine – we ran across the Golden Gate Bridge, just as I did with a team of amazing people two summers ago. It was the beginning of our run across the country, which we did with the Ulman Foundation to support young adults with cancer

Team Baltimore (my 4K for Cancer team) just before running across the Golden Gate Bridge

I remember how that first run felt. I remember the exhilaration & the excitement I experienced, unsure yet what the summer would bring but knowing the journey ahead would be momentous & memorable. 

Today’s run was not momentous. We stood in that chilly, misty San Francisco air just as I had done before, clicked our watches to start tracking our run, & started the trek up the steep hill to the bridge. It took my breath away, just as it had before, & my legs sighed in relief when we reached the flatter grade of the bridge. The mist was so thick, the long suspension ropes leading to the tall, red towers disappeared entirely into a thick cloud above our heads. 

The run across the bridge was fast, & before I knew it, we were back at our car, starting the long drive north to the Redwoods National & State Parks. As we drove over the bridge we had just run across, a bittersweet feeling seeped into my stomach. I had wanted to relive the memory, but this was simply just revisiting. My team members were not here with me, & we were not about to travel across the entire country, our legs carrying us & hearts keeping us going in the fight against cancer.

Me after running across the Golden Gate Bridge today

The drive to the redwoods was uneventful but exciting. I have wanted to see the redwood trees since I was a little girl & read about them in a book. When I had participated in the 4K for Cancer run, I had been disappointed that I came all the way to California & missed seeing the majestic trees. 

Our Airbnb was a camper within Redwood National & State Parks. We got settled into what was by far the most unique Airbnb we had stayed in yet, & then drove off into the setting sun to just catch a glimpse of the views we planned on hiking to tomorrow.

To say that redwood trees are big is an understatement. They are enormous. Our entire wingspan combined didn’t even stretch around half of the base of one of the trees. The trees reached high into the sky as well, basking in the sun’s light. Inside, all I felt was the giddy joy of my 5-year-old self, finally standing at the foot of the redwood trees I had read about. 

Me in front of my first redwood tree

Memories cannot be relived, but that’s what makes them so special. You only get to have one first kiss or one first dance. You only have your first day at school, your first time you win an award, your first time running across the Golden Gate Bridge, & your first time seeing a redwood tree. But what makes those moments memorable is the fact that they only happened once, or because they it was the start of something special that happened again & again. It was the start of a your first cross country adventure. It was the start of your career. It was the start of your love story. 

Running across the bridge & experiencing Joseph’s first time traversing it had been fantastic & memorable in its own way. It was not the same as running it with my team, but it wasn’t supposed to be. That moment is sacred & special in its own way, & it should stay that way.

One of the best things about memories is that we are always forming new ones. Dreams are fulfilled, goals are accomplished, & sweet surprises fill our lives every day. Today, wrapping my arms around the redwood tree, feeling the rough bark beneath my fingertips & ear pressed against the trunk, listening for the hum of life inside, was a dream come true & a memory I have been waiting to create for years. 

Remembering may be bittersweet, but the new memories I am creating in this moment – life has never tasted sweeter. 

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Honeymoon West Coast trip: Monterey & San Francisco (Day 6)

Me with the jellyfish at the Monterey Bay Aquarium

Do you ever have a day that starts out so good it’s almost too good to be true, & then something happens to make you realize it is, in fact, too good to be true? Today was like that. 

Joseph & I decided to sleep in a little to take advantage of our one morning that we didn’t have anywhere to be early in the day. It was a misty, cloudy morning in Monterey, which meant there was no point in getting to the 17-mile-drive early to see the sunrise. Instead, we left our Airbnb around 8:30 & drove 20 minutes to the start of the drive. 

The 17-mile-drive is a scenic drive that features forest views & the coastline in Pebble Beach, California. It was created in 1881 & was first traversed in horse & buggy.

I am always struck when I go to national parks & other places how interesting it is that someone found this land, claimed it, & said they wanted to share it with everyone, but then charged them to get in. But, nevertheless, I always hand over the money. I just cannot resist the chance to see any part of this beautiful world.

Joseph taking videos on the 17-mile-drive – vlog to come soon!!

The trail wound through neighborhoods & trees before finally following along the restless coastline. The ocean was feisty the morning of our drive, splashing up against the rocks with such force that the resulting wind smacked our faces & blew back our hair & clothes as soon as we stepped out of the truck. A dense smoke hung low in the air, most likely from the wildfires raging not too far away, & all you could hear for miles was the sound of crashing waves. 

Our next stop was the Monterey Bay Aquarium, one of the spots I was most looking forward to. I am happy to report it did not disappoint. The aquarium, which was located right on the edge of the bay, was filled with exhibits that stretched from the floor to the ceiling, brimming with colorful sea creatures & tall stalks of seaweed that swayed in invisible currents. The aquarium had done an excellent job of recreating the sea creatures’ natural environment. The exhibit rooms were dark, leaving an eery blue light from the water that drifted into the space. Standing in front of the enormous tanks, realizing how large the animals in the depths of the ocean actually are, was a truly humbling experience. We are so small in this world, & there is so much more to this life & creation than we are even aware. 

Joseph at the Monterey Bay Aquarium

As much as we enjoyed watching the fish swim around, Joseph & I also appreciated how friendly the staff was. As soon as we walked in, the woman who greeted us noticed our face masks (white & black that say bride & groom, respectively) & asked if we were on our honeymoon. When we confirmed that we are, she immediately announced that we needed celebration buttons & asked us which sea creature from a selection that we liked best. We chose the octopus & sea turtle, on which she wrote “Just Married” on the corresponding pins & drew little party hats on the animals. It was such a simple gesture, but being given those pins to wear as we walked around the aquarium made us feel like appreciated guests & customers. And she was not the only staff member who made our experience better. From the friendly man at the front door who gave us our instructions for the day, to the conversational cashier who asked us about our honeymoon & talked to us about her dream to visit the East Coast, to the worker who was hurrying in his work day but still stopped to congratulate us. As amazing as the aquarium was, the staff truly made it an unforgettable experience that I would recommend to anyone.

I could have happily spent the day watching the otters play & jellyfish drift, we had to leave to drive to San Francisco for our evening’s activities. We ate lunch at the truck & then drove to our Airbnb, where we dropped off our belongings before heading into the city.

With all of the wedding & honeymoon excitement, we had forgotten is was Labor Day weekend. San Francisco is normally packed with people already, but thanks to a Giants baseball game & the holiday weekend, it was easily double the normal amount of crowds. This meant parking was even more difficult than it usually is, & we easily spent 30 minutes just looking for a space. We finally found an open spot where someone had left a full drink cup sitting – I suppose no one wanted to touch it or knock it over. When we checked the price, we were dismayed to see that the hourly rate was no longer available. Instead, for special holiday parking, there was a flat rate of $50 no matter how long your stay was. Unwilling to look for parking again & running out of time, we forked over the money & rushed into the busy San Francisco streets. 

We had reservations to tour Alcatraz, but before the sky grew too dark, I wanted to see the sea lions. At Pier 39, sea lions famously gather on the pier, much to the delight of onlookers at the nearby restaurant. We ran to the pier & spent a few minutes watching & laughing as the sea lions barked at one another & flopped around the deck before resting their heads on one to rest. Then, we ran back up the street to the boat ramp for Alcatraz. 

Alcatraz Island (Photo by Shelby Cohron on Unsplash)

The wait was a little long, but we passed the time chatting & people watching. When the time for boarding came, we excitedly found seats on the top of the ferry so we could watch the island grow closer. 

Alcatraz, I learned, was not just the prison for infamous criminals, but also for pacifists who tried to avoid the draft Civil War. Because they were supposed to be in the military, they were tried & punished as military members in defiance of the United States government, which means the punishments were stricter & resulted in stints spent in Alcatraz. And after the prison closed, Native Americans attempted to claim the land because they were allowed to reside on any surplus land. To avoid this, the United States turned it into a national park, which it still remains to this day. 

The Native American & imprisoned pacifists situation wasn’t the only one that struck an uncomfortable cord. Alcatraz was operating until the 1960s, when many social movements gained traction, one of them being the movement to reform inmates rather than give lifetime punishments for all crimes. This means that, until that time, many things happened in Alcatraz that social justice leaders today would be infuriated by. 

It was a little creepy walking around the old cells where inmates spent years of their lives, shut off from the world & spending most of their time alone in spaces small enough to be a closet today. The chill from the outdoors seeped in through the walls, making me wonder just how cold it got for inmates on the island. 

Because of COVID-19, the audio tour was given entirely on individual devices that we carried with us for the tour. The devices gave us directions on where to stand & turn, & the story was told by voice actors, creating an immersive experience. 

At the end of the tour, Joseph & I returned our audio devices & looked at the clock. To our delight, we had finished the tour in just one hour & could catch the earlier ferry. By now, we had not eaten in eight hours & we were growing hungrier by the minute. 

A cell in Alcatraz

We raced down the 13 stories from the top of Alcatraz to the bottom of the hill it was situated on. By now, the line for the ferry had already grown long, & we stood nervously hoping there would be room for us on board. San Francisco is almost always misty & chilly, but on Alcatraz Island, it was even colder, windier & wetter. 

The line began to move as boarding began, & we waited with bated breath as we inched closer to the boat. 100 people away…80 people away…50 people away…the line began slowing down…35 people away…people began holding up their fingers in the air to signal how many people were in their party, & the crewman slowly selected the lucky ones who got to board…25 people away…people were becoming more earnest now, pushing their way forward…20 people away…the crewman apologized & closed the gate. We were stuck on the island for another hour, waiting in line. 

Our stomachs fell with disappointment as the boat sailed away. Hungry, tired & now cold, we sat on the concrete, stuck where we were until the boat returned for us. As the minutes ticked by, our moods soured. We were not dressed appropriately for a night on Alcatraz, & as we sat, shivering, my fingers slowing grew numb. We watched TikTok videos to pass the time, our empty stomachs setting our teeth on edge as we waited. 

When the boat returned, we stood quickly, the crowd pressing in on all sides. Everyone wanted to get on the ferry as quickly as possible. To our dismay, we spent another 20 minutes in the cold, teeth chattering & body’s shaking, as the crewmen completed their necessary chores on the boat & gathered everyone from the island – this was the last ferry of the evening. 

When we were finally allowed back on the boat, all the charm of the day had left our minds. All we could think about was how hungry, tired & cold we were. We called the restaurant we planned on eating at, & to our dismay discovered we needed vaccination cards to dine inside, not just there, but at every restaurant in San Francisco. I had my card with me, but Joseph, unfortunately, had left his card in his backpack, which was currently in our bedroom at the Airbnb. 

View of Golden Gate Bridge from Alcatraz (Photo by Eric Ward on Unsplash)

When we got to the island, we rushed back to our car. The last bit of my positive attitude left as, in my hurry to get in the truck, I knocked over the sticky, sweet-smelling drink that had been left sitting in our parking space & spilled it over my new boots. 

With short & tense language, we tried to find a new restaurant, but anyone who would take us was already closed because of the late hour. We finally resolved to order takeout from the restaurant we had originally planned on & take it back to our Airbnb, but when we called, we discovered takeout could only be ordered by visiting the restaurant in-person & sitting at the bar. Left without any options, Joseph drove me as close to the restaurant as he could, & then returned to our original parking space to await my phone call. 

I sat at the bar quickly & told the bartender I was ready to order, but he insisted I wait & look at the menu. So I sat, annoyingly drumming my fingers until he returned, & I gave him the order I had memorized in the truck. 

The restaurant was busy, so I was surprised & grateful when our food arrived just 15 minutes later. I called Joseph & rushed back outside. He picked me up from the curb, & while driving, I fed us both bread to slowly fill our stomachs & hopefully boost our morale. 

We arrived back at our Airbnb & quickly changed into warm clothes. Joseph grabbed us some wine from our bags, & I set up a spot to eat in our room. We sat together, hoping to salvage the evening, but conversation failed us, other than the occasional dumfounded question: “What just happened?” 

The food was rich & hit our empty stomachs wrong. Neither of us finished. We laid back in bed, knees pulled up to our stomachs in pain, feeling dejected & exhausted from the long day.

Here’s the funny thing about this whole story: Up until the last few hours, our day had been bliss. We started it with lovely views of the coast, & then had some of the best hours on our honeymoon yet wandering around the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Our Airbnb host was lovely. We got to pet her dogs, & she promised us a complimentary breakfast with homemade muffins for the following morning. We had the chance to see the cute sea lions in San Francisco. We did the Alcatraz tour, which wasn’t our favorite experience, but we would have regretted not going, wondering if we missed something. And here we were, in a cozy room with food from the restaurant we wanted to visit. We had let this one experience completely cloud our vision from everything else that we enjoyed today. 

It’s difficult to center yourself when something goes wrong & remember how much good there is in the world. Today, I was reminded of the importance to not let one unfortunate event ruin an entire day, & certainly not to let one bad day, month, year, or however long it is (I’m thinking about you, COVID-19) convince me that it’s a bad life. There is so much in this world & in every day to be grateful for, even on the days I have to look a little harder to find it. 

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Honeymoon West Coast trip: Santa Barbara, Solvang, Bixby Bridge, & Carmel-by-the-Sea (Day 5)

View from the drive to Big Sur

No matter how well you plan for a trip, the one thing you can always count on is that something will not go according to plan.

Joseph & I had planned on taking a ferry ride to Channel Islands National Park today at 8a.m. It was going to be a short trip – the only two options for a ferry ride back to the shore were 10a.m. & 4p.m., & we couldn’t afford a full day spent on the island. The plan was to run around the loop trail as fast as we could, take in the views, & get back to the ferry in time to return to shore. However, as risky this plan was from the beginning, it became utterly hopeless when we received a phone call from Island Packers Cruises yesterday asking if we wanted to change our reservation to a 4:00p.m. return time because all we had essentially booked was a boat ride. By the time the ferry actually docked on the shore, we would only have a maximum of thirty minutes on the island, if we were lucky, before we had to board once again. 

Joseph & I both agreed that we would rather take in the sights another way. So, late last night, Joseph looked up the best hikes in Santa Barbara & chose one that immediately masked our disappointment of not going to an island – we would be going to a hot springs instead. 

Joseph hiking to the hot springs

We woke up early in the morning & drove just 10 minutes away to the trailhead. Instead of going straight to the springs, we decided to take a long, loop hike up a mountain that would take us back to the hot springs on our way down. 

The hike was exhausting, but the views were more than worth it. The mountains in the distance were painted against the sky in all different shades of blue, creating an artistic ombre effect. From our lofty perch, we could see the entirety of the town below us, as well as the undulating waves of the Pacific Ocean. 

The first thing I noticed as we skidded back down the side of the mountain was that the air around us had grown warm. A moment later, I heard the gentle tinkling of falling water droplets. Less than a minute later, we broke through the trees to reveal misty pools of water stair stepped down the side of the mountain, steam rising off of the surface. 

We pulled off our hiking shirts & shorts, revealing the bathing suits we had worn underneath, & slipped into the serene water. The water was so hot that, at first, it stung our skin. I am quite sure it was hotter than any hot tub I have ever soaked in. But our bodies soon acclimated, & we were able to lean against the slimy rocks & relax. There was an odd smell of rotting eggs in the air, which I realized after a moment was from the sulfur compounds that not only give hot springs their many health benefits, but also their characteristic eggy smell.

The hot springs in Santa Barbara

When our bodies felt warm & loose & we were adequately rested, we pulled ourselves out of the water & trekked down the final 1 1/2 miles down the mountain. We were both hungry at this point from our morning’s adventures, so we hopped into the truck & drove 45 minutes to Solvang

Walking around Solvang was like stepping into a fairytale. Danish-style homes & windmills lined the streets, & inside each of these structures were local businesses selling items like wooden shoes, sweet candy, & first edition books by Hans Christian Andersen, the pages still intact but yellowed & the covers beginning to peel from the years of storytelling. 

A view on the main street of Solvang

Our first stop was Succulent Cafe for lunch. Joseph finally ordered the burger he had been craving this entire trip, & I ordered the roasted eggplant, which came with fresh bread from a local bakery. The eggplant was served in a rich marinara sauce mixed with olives, capers & roasted mixed vegetables. It was a tad salty for my taste, but still delicious. 

After eating, we decided to stroll around town & do some window shopping. While we did, we passed by multiple wineries (we were, after all, in the heart of wine country). We decided we would be remiss not to buy a local bottle, & we dipped into one store that happened to be in the oldest building in the town. 

Crawford Family Wines is a family-owned winery committed to using only the very best fruits in the country in the making of every bottle of wine. We ordered the tasting with cheese, which came with a flight of five different wines & a container of five different cheeses to pair with each one. The cheese came from the store attached to the winery, Cailloux Cheese Shop, a family-run, European-style shop that sells artisanal cheeses, charcuterie, bread, & accoutrements. The shop is named after the owner’s dog, Cailloux (pebble in French), whose ambitious attitude inspired Janelle, who has a graduate degree in geology, to pursue her passion & open up her own store.

Flight of wine from Crawford Family Wines

I have never enjoyed drinking wine more. All of the wines we tried were smooth, & even the dry reds had bold, fruity flavors. All of the cheeses were so different, from a creamy, soft goat cheese to a hard, smelly yellow cow‘s milk cheese with herbs. Every pairing of cheese & wine was the perfect complement, & after every tasting, we were left speechless & unsure how we would ever choose our favorite. 

We finally settled on a 2014 Pinot Noir from Radian Vineyard. It had a brighter & fruitier flavor than any Pinot Noir I had ever had, & the finish was soft & lingered delicately on the tongue. We bought a bottle for later in our trip & then continued our stroll down the lane.

Before we left, I wanted to try authentic Danish food, so we went to Good Seed Coffee Boutique (because dessert with coffee is always better), & then went to Mortensen’s Danish Bakery for dessert. The pastries were huge! The majority of them stretched longer than my face. I wanted something small, so I chose a lemon petit four, & Joseph ordered a chocolate coffee cookie. I know, it’s they aren’t really danishes, but they came from a danish bakery & I have always wanted to try a petit four, so I let it slide. 

I was glad I made the choice I did because the petit four was delicious. The soft, biscuit like cookie was smeared with a lemon jam & then topped with mousse-like lemon cream. Then the whole dessert was covered in a thin layer of buttercream with a delicate icing flower piped on top. It was dainty & delicious, the perfect sweet bite. 

We left Solvang later than expected, so our next unexpected conundrum was what we should change in our itinerary. Our initial plan was to drive the scenic route to Bixby Bridge, then go to Carmel-by-the-Sea for dinner, & then drive the 17-mile-drive to our Airbnb. However, by now, it would be far too dark to see any of the views on our final drive. So, since we were still full from eating our way through Solvang, we decided to do both scenic drives first & then have a late dinner.

Our view at Bixby Bridge

The route was breathtakingly gorgeous. All along our drive we looked over rocky cliffs to the restless sea below. The drive took longer than expected, & we arrived at Bixby Bridge just as the sun was setting. The light was perfect to snap a few photos & capture the scenic moment, & then to just stand together & soak in the view. Green mountains behind us, a rocky valley to our left, & a steep drop to the golden beach below with waves crashing to the shore in the dim light – despite the cold from elevation & ocean wind, we simply could not tear our eyes away. It was only when the sun was completely hidden by clouds that we finally returned to our truck. 

Now, it was time for another itinerary change. Luckily, tomorrow was the only day we had planned to sleep in, which meant we technically had time to get up early & still drive to see the views on the 17-mile-drive in the early morning light. We decided to sacrifice rest for the experience tomorrow morning, & for the moment, the most important thing was to get some food in our stomachs. 

We drove to Carmel-by-the-Sea, a bustling town despite the late hour & the chill in the air. The weather was reminiscent of fall. We both changed out of our summer clothes & put on sweaters & pants instead, & then headed into the romantic streets lit by street lamps & globe lights. 

We decided to go to the TreeHouse Cafe for dinner. The wait was long, but we requested to sit at the bar, which got us seated immediately. While talking to the server & bartender, we mentioned we were on our honeymoon, & the next thing I knew, they were offering us a table out on the rooftop, surrounded by twinkle lights that looked like stars. 

Joseph & me at our table at TreeHouse Cafe

For a starter, we ordered Greek Dolmas, a vegetarian dish made of stuffed grape leaves & served with tangy & creamy tzatziki. And for dinner, we split the seafood paella, a warm, comforting rice dish full of shrimp, chicken, sausage, clams, mussels & roasted vegetables.

When we told the server we were ready for our check, he told us not to hurry away, & a moment later, the manager brought us a chocolate cheesecake with raspberry sauce & whipped cream. Stuffed from our dinner but much to enticed to refuse, we both nearly finished off the cake together. Layers of moist chocolate cake & creamy, fudge cheesecake, balanced by the sour raspberry flavor & the creamy & cool whipped cream was the perfect, sweet ending to a delicious meal. 

By now, the shops were closed, so Joseph & I walked the main street, taking in the ambience & staying close to one another to keep warm. We arrived shortly at our truck & then, after a long day, finally began the drive to our Airbnb. 

All throughout the day, things didn’t go as planned, but they turned out so much better than we expected. We missed out on the Channel Islands hike that promised amazing views, but instead, we got to gaze out on all of Santa Barbara from the top of a mountain & soak in hot springs! Our stop in Solvang was longer than expected, although definitely worth it. Because of our extended stay, we missed driving the 17-mile-drive, but being late meant we arrived at Bixby Bridge right at twilight & got probably the best view of the day, & we are looking forward to the views we will get on our drive tomorrow morning. The restaurant we chose was crowded, so we settled for sitting in the bar, & then a nonchalant conversation turned into us getting the best seats in the house & a delicious dessert. 

Life is full of sweet surprises. We just have to remember that when life throws us an unexpected turn of events, it might be to turn us into an even better direction. 

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Honeymoon West Coast road trip: Los Angeles (Day 4)

Me with Queen’s Hollywood Star on the Walk of Fame

You know it’s going to be a good day when you wake up before your alarm clock because you’re just that excited to get started. 

Today was the first official day of Joseph’s & my road trip adventure. Up until this point, we had spent our honeymoon relaxing & exploring San Diego, but today, we went to Enterprise & rented a car for the first time in our relationship to begin the trek north to Seattle.

And we didn’t get just any car. I waited on the bench outside with our many bags while Joseph went inside to get our ride. Twenty minutes later, he rolled up in a white 2021 Ram 1500 Classic, blaring Danger Zone by Kenny Loggins. We loaded up our bags & hit the road, ready to officially begin our adventure.

Our new ride – a 2021 Ram 1500 Classic!

Our first stop was Griffith Park to hike the Brush Canyon Trail. The weather was cool at the beginning, so I made the mistake of not putting on sunscreen, & very soon regretted it. The trail wound up the side of a mountain littered with cacti, which provided little shade from the hot sun that baked on our heads from above & reflected up on our faces from the orange dirt beneath our feet. Despite this, we still had a wonderful time taking in the views on our trek up. On the way, we passed by a sign written by pebbles that read “Have a Nice Day,” which made us smile & gave us a little lift to carry us up to the top.

The view from the top of the mount was scenic, yet somewhat disappointing. I was under the impression that we would be hiking to the Hollywood Sign, but somehow, we ended up on the mountain beside it. The trail offered excellent views of the iconic spot, & looking back, that was probably better for pictures than standing right next to the letters, but I still felt a little wave of disappointment, standing exhausted & sunburnt at the top of the wrong mountain

Joseph & me hiking on the Brush Canyon Trail

On our way back down, we met up with a man named Larry who was creating another sign that said “Have a Nice Day” out of sticks on the side of the trail. After a short conversation, we learned that Larry created a number of these signs all along the trails in the park, & he comes back almost daily to repair them for the hikers that pass by them every day. Larry was inspired by a hike he was on years ago where someone had lined the entire trail with sticks – the ambience it created added to the hiking experience, & Larry wanted to do that for the trails at Griffith Park. He started by lining the portions of trails with large rocks & boulders, & then he started creating arches out of sticks. His latest project has been creating these signs, & he finds joy in the smiles it brings to travelers’ faces.

Larry took our photo & wished us a happy honeymoon, & then we were on our way, smiles once again on our faces, just as he had intended.

Joseph & me with one of Larry’s “Have a Nice Day” signs in Griffith Park

Our next stop was Hollywood Boulevard. We ate a quick lunch at the truck & then drove into the city of Los Angeles. We had a two-hour time limit on our parking, which I was worried wouldn’t be enough time, but as it turns out, Hollywood Boulevard is not as exciting as I thought it would be, & we returned with time to spare. As we approached the boulevard, we walked along dirty & graffitied streets that already gave me a nervous feeling. 

“This isn’t quite what I expected,” I said to Joseph.

“Yeah, it’s just…a city,” Joseph said. 

“I hope Hollywood Boulevard is better, but it’s not looking good.”

My hopeless prediction proved true when we arrived at the famous road. Lined with cheap tourist shops filled with plastic Oscars statues, crowded with people walking blindly past groups of homeless city residents sitting on the sidewalk, the stench of weed hanging in the air, & with bright, flashing globe lights on the fronts of theaters that, instead of adding an affluence to the walk, just seemed to add to the facade of the entire attraction. The only enjoyment we had was reading every name on the Hollywood stars beneath our feet, excitedly calling them out when we recognized one. We took the required touristy shots of us sitting & kneeling beside the stars we liked best, grabbed some delicious coffee at Tiago Coffee Bar & Kitchen, a brightly colored cafe committed to cultivating a welcoming community for artists & the LGBTQ+ community. We then walked back to the car & began our drive to Santa Barbara

Joseph & me with Etta James’ Hollywood Star on the Walk of Fame. I walked down the aisle to the song At Last by Etta James.

On the way, we decided to detour from our route to drive along the coast of Malibu. The waves were even bigger than the ones in San Diego. They lazily approached the shore, growing as they rolled like ice cream being scooped out of the container, before finally crashing against the sand. We admired the scenery as we drove, growing hungrier by the second but never regretting the longer drive.

For our Airbnb, we reserved a private room in a small home in Santa Barbara. We stuffed ourselves with leftovers & finally showered after a long, hot day in the sun, & then we crashed on the comfy bed & armchair in our room, exhausted from our day. 

Our first day back on the road was tiring but exhilarating. It feels so good to be traveling again. I feel a little out of practice from our year-long hiatus – the long hours spent in the car,  challenging hikes, & restless sleep takes a toll, but I know my body will adjust quickly to the new demands as it did before. Being able to travel & see this beautiful world is a true gift & blessing, & I plan on soaking up every minute of it.

But I don’t just want that mentality while traveling. That is the souvenir most important to take home with me. Every day has new experiences to be enjoyed, inspiring people to meet, & hidden blessings around every corner. We just have to keep our eyes open & appreciate every moment. We have to remember to stay focused on the positives & to embrace every new opportunity. And when surprising detours & trials come our way, our challenge is to simply appreciate them as part of our unique journey.

I guess I’m trying to say, as our new friend Larry put it much more simply, today, & every day, I hope you have a nice day. 

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