honeymoon – Tyler V Layne

Honeymoon West Coast trip: Olympic National Park & Seattle (Day 12)

September 14, 2021 No Comments

Me on Mount Storm King looking over Crescent Lake

When your alarm goes off at 3am, you want it to be for something exciting. You don’t want your first reaction to be a pit of terror falling into your stomach. But that’s how my day began.

For the final day of our honeymoon, we had decided to hike at Mount Storm King in Olympic National Park. It was a hike that promised incredible views, but not without anything in return. The first challenge would be to hike two miles straight up – no places to take a break, & no level ground to give you a chance to catch your breath. I knew this part would be challenging, but I was more worried about the second challenge – a trek beyond the maintained trail, to where fellow hikers had set up ropes to help you climb to a rock scramble, which would then take you to the top of the mountain.

As I said in my post yesterday, I do not like heights. I like my two feet firmly planted on solid ground. I enjoy hiking to beautiful, high viewpoints, but I always stand away from the edge where I know my feet won’t slip. So the idea of scaling the side of a mountain with a rope that wasn’t maintained by the official park system terrified me.

Joseph was not afraid at all. Despite the early hour, he bounced around our Airbnb with excitement about the upcoming hike & the incredible view we were going to get of Crescent Lake. Not wanting to make him miss out of the experience, I packed my hiking gear & we headed out to the truck.

The stars in northern Washington are amazing. I gazed up at the night sky as we drove, soaking in their beauty. They provided a great distraction for the majority of our drive, but as we neared the park, my nerves intensified to the point of frightened tears.

I truly wanted to face my fears, & I did not want to disappoint Joseph, so I still insisted we do the hike. We were just about to leave the truck when Joseph frustratedly discovered that our headlamp had died. Walking up the narrow path in complete darkness with just a flashlight was not an option because there would be times we needed our hands free for assistance with climbing. I suggested we wait a little longer for the sun to get just below the horizon, so by the time we would need the headlamp, the world would be lighter. Joseph agreed, & we spent the next half hour gazing up at the stars in the bed of the truck, huddled together to fight against the cold.

The sign for the Mount Storm King trail in Olympic National Park

When it came time to go, I led the way with the flashlight while Joseph trailed closely behind. Hiking in the woods at night is spooky no matter where you’re headed, so it certainly didn’t help that my nerves were already intensified by our destination. We kept the conversation going to calm our anxious minds, & to potentially discourage any wildlife from getting too close.

Luckily, the sun began to rise not long after we started, & we heard another group of hikers not too far away. It is always encouraging to know you are not alone on potentially dangerous trails.

Despite the difficult grade, the trek up the mountain wasn’t too bad. It passed by quickly with games & conversation. My breath was heavy, but my legs had been conditioned from marathon training & the last few days of hiking, & they carried me up the trail without any trouble.

The sign “End of Maintained Trail” came sooner than I expected. I had almost forgotten what was to come, but as soon as I saw those words, the pit of fear dropped back into my stomach & I felt instantly nauseous.

We carefully stepped beyond the sign & began hiking upwards, watching our feet carefully. I reminded Joseph that this part of the trail was not maintained by National Park Services, so we needed to be extra cautious about where we placed our feet. We could no longer trust that rocks & stones that looked well traversed were trustworthy. At any moment, they could slip, taking us down with them.

I had thought we would arrive at the ropes quickly. I was unaware we had to hike to them, & it was that hike that broke me. The trail was so narrow I could barely fit my two feet beside one another, & to each side, steep drops meant a perilous fall. We were 2,500 feet in the air, enough to cause anyone’s stomach to drop when looking over the edge. Hiking next to the edge, I felt like my stomach simply fell out of my body & down into the valley below.

Heart pumping, legs trembling, & breath shallow, I slowly shifted my feet to climb up the trail. Every few moments, I dropped to my hands & knees to catch my breath, calm my nerves, & carefully crawl over the rocks, trying to look anywhere but down.

Joseph & me at the top of the maintained trail on Mount Storm King overlooking Crescent Lake

Joseph led the way slowly & cautiously, encouraging me every step of the way. We made it a little less than a quarter mile before my body froze beneath me in fear.

“How much farther is it to the ropes,” I asked.

“I don’t know,” Joseph said. “Why don’t you wait here, & I’ll keep going to see if I can see them?”

“No! You can’t go alone!”

“I will be fine.” Joseph turned carefully & began hiking up the rocky slope.

“Please, please be careful,” I called out, & Joseph assured me that he would be. Camera slung over his shoulder, he stepped slowly up the mountain & out of sight, peering around to see the ropes. I waited with bated breath, my heart pounding, waiting to hear any sound of distress & trying to determine what I would do first if I did.

Joseph returned moments later, shaking his head.

“We’re done,” he said. “I can’t see the ropes, but it gets super steep. Let’s go back.” I breathed a shaky sigh of relief, & slowly scooted back down over the rocks, covering my backside in loose dirt. As a comfort to myself, I tend to talk nonstop when I am nervous, often telling jokes, so the next few minutes were filled solely with the sound of my musings on the dangerous hike. It wasn’t until we were safely back on the maintained trail that I stopped & gave Joseph the tightest hug I probably ever have.

“Thank you,” I said. “I wouldn’t have called it because I didn’t want to disappoint you, but I’m so glad you did. I was terrified.”

“It was scary,” Joseph admitted.

“I know you probably would have done it if I hadn’t been there,” I said. “I’m sorry.” I felt ashamed. My own fear had held us back from an amazing view.

“I would have, but who knows what would have happened,” Joseph said. “I wasn’t afraid until I got up there. You didn’t see it, but it got super steep & sketchy, & it was at that moment that I realized something could happen. Up until then, I knew we could do it, but when I saw that trail, I realized there was a possibility that we couldn’t.” He paused. “I’m sorry that I made you come. I feel bad. I knew how scared you were, & I still made you come.”

“No, I wanted to do it!” I said. “I just didn’t want you to be disappointed if I didn’t feel comfortable at the top climbing the ropes.”

Much of the hike down was more of the same sentiments being shared repeatedly. We both were disappointed in our own actions, & we both equally wanted the other person to know that we were okay with what happened.

Our first moment as a married couple (Photo by Natira & Hannah Leigh Photography)

It wasn’t until we were nearly down the mountain that I realized how important this hike had been for our marriage. Up until now, the honeymoon had been almost complete bliss. We had enjoyed every moment of traveling, & the lessons we learned during our trip were important for us to apply to our individual lives. But this hike had taught us a lesson for our marriage: The ultimate level of trust where we put our lives, including our safety, wants & needs, in each others’ hands.

I was scared to do the hike, but I trusted Joseph would get me to the top safely. I got up early this morning, laced up my hiking boots, and followed Joseph up the mountain despite my fears, planning on never asking to turn around no matter how afraid I was. And when we got there, he proved that he would always look out for me by making the decision to turn around rather than risk falling. Today’s hike had challenged us to look out for one another’s best interests & safety, & despite the fact that we missed out on the view at the top, we were still together. Hand in hand, husband & wife, we both knew through all the great adventures we would have, the best view will always be us standing by each other’s side through all of the exciting & difficult mountain climbs.

Our next stop was Seattle. Because of traffic, we arrived late at the city, so we had just enough time to grab lunch before running to the Space Needle. We went to the Starbucks Reserve, which did not disappoint. It was a bustling hub of creativity & inspiration. The smell of coffee hung in the air, & all around we could hear the sound of beans roasting & people talking excitedly.

My almond milk latte from the Starbucks Reserve

Joseph ordered pizza & a cinnamon roll for lunch, & I ordered a chicken & orange salad & a sourdough roll. For coffee, Joseph got a lightly sweetened & nutty hazelnut bianco latte, & I got my usual latte with almond milk. It seemed a little boring to get the same thing as always, but I knew I would love it, & the little milk foam heart on the top made it worth it.

For a fun experience, we ordered an espresso flight with truffles. It was much like a wine tasting, with two small cups of espresso & matching chocolate flavors to go with them. We popped the truffles into our mouths & took large swigs of the hot espresso to experience the full flavor profile, & I can honestly say, it’s some of the most fun I have ever had drinking coffee. Despite how rushed we were, I still took a moment to let the chocolate melt on my tongue & savored the creamy confection in created.

We sped-walked from there to the Space Needle, arriving just in time for our elevator ride up to the top. The entirety of the top rim of the Space Needle is surrounded by glass tilted towards the ground below, so you have to do a bit of a trust fall to lean against it. Looking down on the world from that perch is exhilarating. We both knew if the glass wasn’t there, it would be a nasty fall, but from where we were, we had the best view of Seattle, unobstructed by anything but clear glass that we could barely see even if we focused on it.

We walked down the stairs to the level below, a room with a rotating glass floor. Stepping onto the clear platform & looking down at the ground below was even more disconcerting. The spinning room made both of us feel a little dizzy & nauseous, but we couldn’t resist staying for a few minutes to watch the ground move beneath us.

Our next stop was Chihuly Garden & Glass. I had seen Chihuly’s art in the Fred & Pamela Buffet Cancer Center in Nebraska during my 4K for Cancer journey, & I have continued to periodically think about it over the last two years because of how incredibly beautiful it is. My awareness of blown glass art before witnessing Chihuly’s work was bowls & glasses sold at the Renaissance Festival. Chihuly created an entire garden for the patients at the hospital to enjoy, full of large, brightly colored flowers & intricate chandeliers hanging from the ceiling. When I discovered that Chihuly had a gallery in Seattle, I knew it was a must-see experience.

My reward was seeing the look on Joseph’s face when we walked in. Just as it had been for me the first time I saw Chihuly’s art, Joseph’s jaw dropped & eyes widened as he took in the tall blown glass sculptures & intricate works of art. There is simply no way to encapsulate in words just how gorgeous Chihuly’s work is. Every piece is thoughtfully created, pieced perfectly together. It is intricate art, lovingly created by someone who is clearly a master of his craft.

After exploring the gallery & watching a highly entertaining demonstration, we finally decided to call it a day. The quintessential Seattle rain had begun, & we walked through the streets in a light drizzle, our clothes getting wet but the chill never quite seeping through. We stopped by the original Starbucks as a testament to our love for its coffee & a nod to our souvenir of choice. Unfortunately, they did not have the mug we wanted in stock, but we knew we could get it another time. We ordered takeout sushi from Maneki, the oldest sushi restaurant in Seattle, & then headed to our Airbnb in Kent.

Our host was delightful. She had set out a bottle of sparkling cider & chocolates for us to enjoy, & she kindly let us use her backyard patio & hot tub. We ate our sushi (which truly was the best I have ever had – never have the many different flavors in a roll melded so beautifully together) next to the fire & then dipped into the hot tub for a relaxing soak. We were both exhausted by this point, having been awake & on-the-go for 20 hours after an already sleep-deprived two weeks, so after fighting to stay awake for a few minutes in the hot water, we decided to retire for the evening & go to sleep.

The final day of our honeymoon adventures was exciting in so many different ways, but what I loved most about it was I felt that it helped us to feel ready for our journey home tomorrow, when our married life together will officially begin. The little trust fall (thankfully without actually falling) that we had on our hike this morning taught us more about what it means to be husband & wife, & the day beyond that point was filled with a renewed sense of unity & love that I hope will stay with us long after this adventure ends.

The honeymoon has come to a close, but getting on that plane tomorrow means a lifetime of new adventures with the love of my life. For that, I would be willing to go on hundreds more terrifying hikes, as long as I have him by my side.

Travel

Honeymoon West Coast trip: Mount St. Helens & Port Angeles (Day 11)

September 13, 2021 No Comments

We have finally arrived in Washington, which means the honeymoon is nearly over. I can’t believe how fast the time has passed. Nearly two weeks ago, I was standing under an arbor adorned with sunflowers, saying my vows, & since then, I have flown across the country & traveled up the coast from San Diego all the way to Washington, exploring new places & going on new adventures every day.

Today started with a hike at Mount St. Helens. The reddish brown landscape was dotted with a few trees, but still seemed rather barren for Southern Washington. Mount St. Helens towered high above us at an impressive 8,366 feet, about 1,300 feet shorter than it was before the 1980s eruption (USGS). Like Mount Hood, Mount St. Helens is a stratovolcano, & it was dormant since the 1850s until May 1980, when an earthquake triggered the largest landslide ever recorded & a volcanic blast that took the lives of 57 people (EarthSky). Seeing the collapsed face of the volcano was both mind-blowing & haunting knowing the history of the event.

The hike was uneventful. It led us along the landscape around Mount St. Helens all the way to Spirit Lake, so we got a few good views along the way, but nothing as spectacular as climbing the volcano would have been. My favorite view was actually not of Mount St. Helens, but of the many red & yellow flowers that grew alongside the trail next to Spirit Lake. With colorful flowers in the foreground, a blue mountain range in the background, & a still, serene lake in the middle, I thought it was the best view of the day.

The flowers along the trail beside Spirit Lake

After hiking, we ate a quick lunch at the truck & then started our long drive to Port Angeles. Mount St. Helens is near the bottom of Washington, & Port Angeles is at the top, so we had a lot of ground to cover. We listened to music & chatted to pass the time, every so often gazing out the window in wonder at the beautiful views. The West Coast really is everything I ever wanted it to be. The mountain-dominated views are stunning, the air is clean, & the water is somehow bluer than it is in Maryland. It is truly spectacular.

We stopped by our Airbnb first to drop off our belongings. The private suite was in a wooden home designed to look like a log cabin. The outdoorsy yet cozy ambience made us feel right at home.

We showered quickly & then headed to Dupuis’ Restaurant, the oldest restaurant in the area. It has been in operation for 101 years, & we sat at a booth that has been there since the beginning. The food can be best described as Washington’s version of southern comfort. We ordered large, Dungeness crab cakes that were so soft & buttery, I didn’t even mind that they weren’t the Maryland version. They were served with a fruit compote that paired beautifully & was delicious all on its own – I saved it to smear on my soft, honey-buttered roll. For dinner, Joseph ordered fish & chips that was fried to perfection, & a small bowl of chicken noodle soup with soft, homemade noodles. I ordered sauteéd prawns that were served in herbed butter with a warm rice pilaf & a side salad. The meal was satisfying & hearty, the perfect end to a long day.

Dungeness Crab Cakes from Dupuis’ Restaurant

After dinner, we drove into Port Angeles, a town situated beside the water at the very top of Washington. From the pier, we could see the lights across the water from Canada’s coast. I had never been so far North in the United States before, & seeing another country so close was for some reason a very exciting experience.

Many of the shops were already closed, so we just walked around in the chilly night air to take in the sights. The water was calm & the sound of the waves lapping at the land were soothing.

We didn’t stay long because we had made very early plans for the following morning. To make the most of the final day of our honeymoon, we had decided to wake up at 3am to hike Mount Storm King in Olympic National Park before heading to Seattle for the day. The hike was going to be challenging with a daunting end. After two miles headed straight up (at an 18% grade!), the end of the hike promised beautiful views, as long as you were willing to take a risk. Beyond the end of the maintained trail, fellow hikers had set up ropes to aid you in climbing up to the top of the mountain peak.

To be honest, I am terrified. I do not like heights. I hiked Angel’s Landing in Zion two years ago, & it took a lot of convincing to get me to the top. When I finally did muster the courage to attempt the narrow climb, my sweaty hands clinging as hard as I could to the chain provided, I made it to the top literally on my hands & knees, trembling & unwilling to even crawl to the edge. But I made it, & at Joseph’s excited insistence, I agreed to attempt to climb Mount Storm King.

It will be, after all, the final day of our honeymoon, after a two-week adventure, & we would like to end it with a moment & a view we will always remember. I just really hope this adventure doesn’t have any unexpected challenges because the ramifications could mean an end to our explorations.

Travel

Honeymoon West Coast trip: Redwoods National & State Parks (Day 8)

September 8, 2021 2 Comments

The air is crisp & clean. It’s icy fingers stretch down into my lungs, freezing my chest but for some reason making me want to breathe in deeper. The sky is gray. Dense clouds hang low above our heads. The smell of pine lingers, foreshadowing the coming colder season. In the distance, I can hear small animals chattering to one another & scuttering along the forest floor.

I outstretch one hand & run it against the rough bark of the tall, majestic giant standing before me. The tree seems to almost radiate a reddish glow, filling my chilly form with a wondrous warmth. I look up. From where I stand, I can just barely see where the top branches reach the sky above.

I wrap my arms around the trunk. They do not even travel halfway around its base. I press my ear against the bark & pull my chest in closer, listening for the hum inside, matching the beat of my heart to the beat of the life inside this ancient resident of earth. It has been standing here since long before I was even imagined, & it will remain here long after I leave this world, every year growing a little taller, a little wider, a little stronger, a little more majestic.

When I was a little girl, I was infatuated with trees. I imagined that I could talk to them, & I would spend hours playing outside with my imaginary friends in the forest. And the trees I dreamed most of meeting were the stately redwood trees in California.

I have finally arrived, nearly 20 years later, & while I am older & wiser now, I do still wonder what these trees would tell me if they could talk. What would they say, after seeing the earth change over the last few thousand years, to someone like me, who can’t even comprehend how long that actually is?

Perhaps they would tell me that life is so much simpler than I make it to be. That in that forest, as much as the world seems to be different, a lot has also remained the same. We all grow, we breathe, we love, & we die. Everything else is not required. When compared to all that has happened on planet earth, the things I worry about in my daily life would not even equate to the width of one ring in their trunk. It does not mean those things are meaningless, but perhaps they are also not worth the worry lines in my own face. Life is beautiful & meant to be savored.

So, when the busyness seems to consume you, & the worries of life are all you can think about, come back to this place. Center yourself. Feel the sun on your skin, the beat of your heart, the air moving in & out of your lungs. Ponder your humanity, & how fleeting it is, & remember that is one of the things that makes it beautiful. Stand tall & grow with confidence. And finally, know that your life is deeply rooted to many others who were here long before you, & who will be here long after you are gone, & that alone gives your fleeting existence on this earth meaning & purpose.

Joseph & I spent the day today exploring Redwood National & State Parks – we did a 13-mile-hike, & then drove, exhausted, to our Airbnb in Medford, Oregon, where we crashed for the night. In lieu of trying to capture every little detail of our day, in which it seemed nothing much happened, I though it better to capture what I felt during our hike, gazing at those majestic trees & feeling the sense of wonder I always had as a little girl when I saw pictures of them.

Travel

Honeymoon West Coast trip: Santa Barbara, Solvang, Bixby Bridge, & Carmel-by-the-Sea (Day 5)

September 5, 2021 No Comments

No matter how well you plan for a trip, the one thing you can always count on is that something will not go according to plan.

Joseph & I had planned on taking a ferry ride to Channel Islands National Park today at 8a.m. It was going to be a short trip – the only two options for a ferry ride back to the shore were 10a.m. & 4p.m., & we couldn’t afford a full day spent on the island. The plan was to run around the loop trail as fast as we could, take in the views, & get back to the ferry in time to return to shore. However, as risky this plan was from the beginning, it became utterly hopeless when we received a phone call from Island Packers Cruises yesterday asking if we wanted to change our reservation to a 4:00p.m. return time because all we had essentially booked was a boat ride. By the time the ferry actually docked on the shore, we would only have a maximum of thirty minutes on the island, if we were lucky, before we had to board once again.

Joseph & I both agreed that we would rather take in the sights another way. So, late last night, Joseph looked up the best hikes in Santa Barbara & chose one that immediately masked our disappointment of not going to an island – we would be going to a hot springs instead.

We woke up early in the morning & drove just 10 minutes away to the trailhead. Instead of going straight to the springs, we decided to take a long, loop hike up a mountain that would take us back to the hot springs on our way down.

The hike was exhausting, but the views were more than worth it. The mountains in the distance were painted against the sky in all different shades of blue, creating an artistic ombre effect. From our lofty perch, we could see the entirety of the town below us, as well as the undulating waves of the Pacific Ocean.

The first thing I noticed as we skidded back down the side of the mountain was that the air around us had grown warm. A moment later, I heard the gentle tinkling of falling water droplets. Less than a minute later, we broke through the trees to reveal misty pools of water stair stepped down the side of the mountain, steam rising off of the surface.

We pulled off our hiking shirts & shorts, revealing the bathing suits we had worn underneath, & slipped into the serene water. The water was so hot that, at first, it stung our skin. I am quite sure it was hotter than any hot tub I have ever soaked in. But our bodies soon acclimated, & we were able to lean against the slimy rocks & relax. There was an odd smell of rotting eggs in the air, which I realized after a moment was from the sulfur compounds that not only give hot springs their many health benefits, but also their characteristic eggy smell.

When our bodies felt warm & loose & we were adequately rested, we pulled ourselves out of the water & trekked down the final 1 1/2 miles down the mountain. We were both hungry at this point from our morning’s adventures, so we hopped into the truck & drove 45 minutes to Solvang.

Walking around Solvang was like stepping into a fairytale. Danish-style homes & windmills lined the streets, & inside each of these structures were local businesses selling items like wooden shoes, sweet candy, & first edition books by Hans Christian Andersen, the pages still intact but yellowed & the covers beginning to peel from the years of storytelling.

Our first stop was Succulent Cafe for lunch. Joseph finally ordered the burger he had been craving this entire trip, & I ordered the roasted eggplant, which came with fresh bread from a local bakery. The eggplant was served in a rich marinara sauce mixed with olives, capers & roasted mixed vegetables. It was a tad salty for my taste, but still delicious.

After eating, we decided to stroll around town & do some window shopping. While we did, we passed by multiple wineries (we were, after all, in the heart of wine country). We decided we would be remiss not to buy a local bottle, & we dipped into one store that happened to be in the oldest building in the town.

Crawford Family Wines is a family-owned winery committed to using only the very best fruits in the country in the making of every bottle of wine. We ordered the tasting with cheese, which came with a flight of five different wines & a container of five different cheeses to pair with each one. The cheese came from the store attached to the winery, Cailloux Cheese Shop, a family-run, European-style shop that sells artisanal cheeses, charcuterie, bread, & accoutrements. The shop is named after the owner’s dog, Cailloux (pebble in French), whose ambitious attitude inspired Janelle, who has a graduate degree in geology, to pursue her passion & open up her own store.

Flight of wine from Crawford Family Wines

I have never enjoyed drinking wine more. All of the wines we tried were smooth, & even the dry reds had bold, fruity flavors. All of the cheeses were so different, from a creamy, soft goat cheese to a hard, smelly yellow cow‘s milk cheese with herbs. Every pairing of cheese & wine was the perfect complement, & after every tasting, we were left speechless & unsure how we would ever choose our favorite.

We finally settled on a 2014 Pinot Noir from Radian Vineyard. It had a brighter & fruitier flavor than any Pinot Noir I had ever had, & the finish was soft & lingered delicately on the tongue. We bought a bottle for later in our trip & then continued our stroll down the lane.

Before we left, I wanted to try authentic Danish food, so we went to Good Seed Coffee Boutique (because dessert with coffee is always better), & then went to Mortensen’s Danish Bakery for dessert. The pastries were huge! The majority of them stretched longer than my face. I wanted something small, so I chose a lemon petit four, & Joseph ordered a chocolate coffee cookie. I know, it’s they aren’t really danishes, but they came from a danish bakery & I have always wanted to try a petit four, so I let it slide.

I was glad I made the choice I did because the petit four was delicious. The soft, biscuit like cookie was smeared with a lemon jam & then topped with mousse-like lemon cream. Then the whole dessert was covered in a thin layer of buttercream with a delicate icing flower piped on top. It was dainty & delicious, the perfect sweet bite.

We left Solvang later than expected, so our next unexpected conundrum was what we should change in our itinerary. Our initial plan was to drive the scenic route to Bixby Bridge, then go to Carmel-by-the-Sea for dinner, & then drive the 17-mile-drive to our Airbnb. However, by now, it would be far too dark to see any of the views on our final drive. So, since we were still full from eating our way through Solvang, we decided to do both scenic drives first & then have a late dinner.

The route was breathtakingly gorgeous. All along our drive we looked over rocky cliffs to the restless sea below. The drive took longer than expected, & we arrived at Bixby Bridge just as the sun was setting. The light was perfect to snap a few photos & capture the scenic moment, & then to just stand together & soak in the view. Green mountains behind us, a rocky valley to our left, & a steep drop to the golden beach below with waves crashing to the shore in the dim light – despite the cold from elevation & ocean wind, we simply could not tear our eyes away. It was only when the sun was completely hidden by clouds that we finally returned to our truck.

Now, it was time for another itinerary change. Luckily, tomorrow was the only day we had planned to sleep in, which meant we technically had time to get up early & still drive to see the views on the 17-mile-drive in the early morning light. We decided to sacrifice rest for the experience tomorrow morning, & for the moment, the most important thing was to get some food in our stomachs.

We drove to Carmel-by-the-Sea, a bustling town despite the late hour & the chill in the air. The weather was reminiscent of fall. We both changed out of our summer clothes & put on sweaters & pants instead, & then headed into the romantic streets lit by street lamps & globe lights.

We decided to go to the TreeHouse Cafe for dinner. The wait was long, but we requested to sit at the bar, which got us seated immediately. While talking to the server & bartender, we mentioned we were on our honeymoon, & the next thing I knew, they were offering us a table out on the rooftop, surrounded by twinkle lights that looked like stars.

Joseph & me at our table at TreeHouse Cafe

For a starter, we ordered Greek Dolmas, a vegetarian dish made of stuffed grape leaves & served with tangy & creamy tzatziki. And for dinner, we split the seafood paella, a warm, comforting rice dish full of shrimp, chicken, sausage, clams, mussels & roasted vegetables.

When we told the server we were ready for our check, he told us not to hurry away, & a moment later, the manager brought us a chocolate cheesecake with raspberry sauce & whipped cream. Stuffed from our dinner but much to enticed to refuse, we both nearly finished off the cake together. Layers of moist chocolate cake & creamy, fudge cheesecake, balanced by the sour raspberry flavor & the creamy & cool whipped cream was the perfect, sweet ending to a delicious meal.

By now, the shops were closed, so Joseph & I walked the main street, taking in the ambience & staying close to one another to keep warm. We arrived shortly at our truck & then, after a long day, finally began the drive to our Airbnb.

All throughout the day, things didn’t go as planned, but they turned out so much better than we expected. We missed out on the Channel Islands hike that promised amazing views, but instead, we got to gaze out on all of Santa Barbara from the top of a mountain & soak in hot springs! Our stop in Solvang was longer than expected, although definitely worth it. Because of our extended stay, we missed driving the 17-mile-drive, but being late meant we arrived at Bixby Bridge right at twilight & got probably the best view of the day, & we are looking forward to the views we will get on our drive tomorrow morning. The restaurant we chose was crowded, so we settled for sitting in the bar, & then a nonchalant conversation turned into us getting the best seats in the house & a delicious dessert.

Life is full of sweet surprises. We just have to remember that when life throws us an unexpected turn of events, it might be to turn us into an even better direction.

Travel

Honeymoon West Coast road trip: Los Angeles (Day 4)

September 4, 2021 No Comments

Me with Queen’s Hollywood Star on the Walk of Fame

You know it’s going to be a good day when you wake up before your alarm clock because you’re just that excited to get started.

Today was the first official day of Joseph’s & my road trip adventure. Up until this point, we had spent our honeymoon relaxing & exploring San Diego, but today, we went to Enterprise & rented a car for the first time in our relationship to begin the trek north to Seattle.

And we didn’t get just any car. I waited on the bench outside with our many bags while Joseph went inside to get our ride. Twenty minutes later, he rolled up in a white 2021 Ram 1500 Classic, blaring Danger Zone by Kenny Loggins. We loaded up our bags & hit the road, ready to officially begin our adventure.

Our first stop was Griffith Park to hike the Brush Canyon Trail. The weather was cool at the beginning, so I made the mistake of not putting on sunscreen, & very soon regretted it. The trail wound up the side of a mountain littered with cacti, which provided little shade from the hot sun that baked on our heads from above & reflected up on our faces from the orange dirt beneath our feet. Despite this, we still had a wonderful time taking in the views on our trek up. On the way, we passed by a sign written by pebbles that read “Have a Nice Day,” which made us smile & gave us a little lift to carry us up to the top.

The view from the top of the mount was scenic, yet somewhat disappointing. I was under the impression that we would be hiking to the Hollywood Sign, but somehow, we ended up on the mountain beside it. The trail offered excellent views of the iconic spot, & looking back, that was probably better for pictures than standing right next to the letters, but I still felt a little wave of disappointment, standing exhausted & sunburnt at the top of the wrong mountain.

Joseph & me hiking on the Brush Canyon Trail

On our way back down, we met up with a man named Larry who was creating another sign that said “Have a Nice Day” out of sticks on the side of the trail. After a short conversation, we learned that Larry created a number of these signs all along the trails in the park, & he comes back almost daily to repair them for the hikers that pass by them every day. Larry was inspired by a hike he was on years ago where someone had lined the entire trail with sticks – the ambience it created added to the hiking experience, & Larry wanted to do that for the trails at Griffith Park. He started by lining the portions of trails with large rocks & boulders, & then he started creating arches out of sticks. His latest project has been creating these signs, & he finds joy in the smiles it brings to travelers’ faces.

Larry took our photo & wished us a happy honeymoon, & then we were on our way, smiles once again on our faces, just as he had intended.

Joseph & me with one of Larry’s “Have a Nice Day” signs in Griffith Park

Our next stop was Hollywood Boulevard. We ate a quick lunch at the truck & then drove into the city of Los Angeles. We had a two-hour time limit on our parking, which I was worried wouldn’t be enough time, but as it turns out, Hollywood Boulevard is not as exciting as I thought it would be, & we returned with time to spare. As we approached the boulevard, we walked along dirty & graffitied streets that already gave me a nervous feeling.

“This isn’t quite what I expected,” I said to Joseph.

“Yeah, it’s just…a city,” Joseph said.

“I hope Hollywood Boulevard is better, but it’s not looking good.”

My hopeless prediction proved true when we arrived at the famous road. Lined with cheap tourist shops filled with plastic Oscars statues, crowded with people walking blindly past groups of homeless city residents sitting on the sidewalk, the stench of weed hanging in the air, & with bright, flashing globe lights on the fronts of theaters that, instead of adding an affluence to the walk, just seemed to add to the facade of the entire attraction. The only enjoyment we had was reading every name on the Hollywood stars beneath our feet, excitedly calling them out when we recognized one. We took the required touristy shots of us sitting & kneeling beside the stars we liked best, grabbed some delicious coffee at Tiago Coffee Bar & Kitchen, a brightly colored cafe committed to cultivating a welcoming community for artists & the LGBTQ+ community. We then walked back to the car & began our drive to Santa Barbara.

Joseph & me with Etta James’ Hollywood Star on the Walk of Fame. I walked down the aisle to the song At Last by Etta James.

On the way, we decided to detour from our route to drive along the coast of Malibu. The waves were even bigger than the ones in San Diego. They lazily approached the shore, growing as they rolled like ice cream being scooped out of the container, before finally crashing against the sand. We admired the scenery as we drove, growing hungrier by the second but never regretting the longer drive.

For our Airbnb, we reserved a private room in a small home in Santa Barbara. We stuffed ourselves with leftovers & finally showered after a long, hot day in the sun, & then we crashed on the comfy bed & armchair in our room, exhausted from our day.

Our first day back on the road was tiring but exhilarating. It feels so good to be traveling again. I feel a little out of practice from our year-long hiatus – the long hours spent in the car, challenging hikes, & restless sleep takes a toll, but I know my body will adjust quickly to the new demands as it did before. Being able to travel & see this beautiful world is a true gift & blessing, & I plan on soaking up every minute of it.

But I don’t just want that mentality while traveling. That is the souvenir most important to take home with me. Every day has new experiences to be enjoyed, inspiring people to meet, & hidden blessings around every corner. We just have to keep our eyes open & appreciate every moment. We have to remember to stay focused on the positives & to embrace every new opportunity. And when surprising detours & trials come our way, our challenge is to simply appreciate them as part of our unique journey.

I guess I’m trying to say, as our new friend Larry put it much more simply, today, & every day, I hope you have a nice day.

Travel

Honeymoon West Coast road trip: San Diego (Days 1-3)

September 3, 2021 4 Comments

After over a year, we are finally back on the road!

Because of busy work schedules & the COVID-19 pandemic, Joseph & I spent the last year mostly in our homes, waiting for the opportune time to resume our travels. When it came time to plan our honeymoon, it didn’t seem there was any question in what we would do. Now given the opportunity to splurge a little, we decided to book a flight to one of the distant states that would be most difficult to cross off of our 50-state bucket list. To make the most of it, we planned a two-week road trip to knock three west coast states off of our list: California, Oregon & Washington.

Joseph & I awoke far too early Monday morning, less than two full days after we tied the knot. A two-week road trip & a DIY wedding both require a lot of forethought & planning, which meant we were up late Sunday night packing our bags & making sure we had everything we needed. Around 10:30 that night, I finally crashed & took myself to bed, & Joseph joined me an hour & a half later, meaning when we awoke, I had gained a mere three hours of sleep, & Joseph had just half of that. Despite this, our excitement pulled us out of bed & tackling our first to-do’s.

I absolutely hate flying. I’m not as afraid of it as I used to be, but I just find it immensely uncomfortable. I’m not the type of person who can sit in one place for very long, so sitting for hours on end in an uncomfortable chair flying in the sky is not my idea of a luxury vacation. To get all of my jitters out, I went for a short three-mile run our street-lamp lit neighborhood. Meanwhile, Joseph drove to a nearby Wawa to buy coffee & breakfast for our awesome best man & brother, Jon, who was getting up far too early after a very busy weekend to drive us to the airport.

Checking our bags & security went smoothly. I haven’t flown much in my life, but, thankfully, I remembered everything I needed from my family trip to Arizona last year & I was able to guide us through our first checkpoints. Joseph ordered some Chick-fil-A for breakfast, & we sat together, butterflies in our stomach, waiting to board our flight.

The sunrise view from our airplane window

Our first flight was four-and-a-half hours long. For the first hour, we tried in vain to get some sleep. When that proved fruitless, I got out my computer to enter our road trip itinerary into my calendar, & to open a new document & write down absolutely everything I remembered from our wedding day. Joseph pulled out his laptop as well to sort through hours of precious footage from our the same day. We had not payed for a videographer; instead, we had asked members of our wedding party & family to capture videos from our day to compile our own vlog (stay tuned for that!). Everyone we asked went above & beyond what we ever expected or even dreamed of, & I was brought to tears multiple times peering over Joseph’s shoulder at the screen.

We had a two-and-a-half hour layover in Phoenix, where we got some brunch. With the time change & how early we woke up, we were both bleary-eyed, exhausted & very hungry at what was now 8:00 in the morning. To eat what we both figured would be our final healthy meal of the trip, we ordered some salads from Panera Bread & sat down next to some fellow travelers, one of whom now lived in Phoenix after traveling for years in her camper! Traveling full-time is something that comes up frequently in Joseph’s & my conversations, but for now, I think we are content just making it a regular part of our life together while continuing to live close to family & pursuing our respective careers.

Our second flight was just a little over an hour. We sat down next to a woman named Melissa, who was traveling home from sending one of her daughters to college & watching the other daughter get engaged! We spent a good portion of the flight chatting about weddings & things to do in San Diego. She recommended to us a restaurant in Old Town San Diego called Casa de Reyes for some authentic Mexican food, which we immediately added to our notes, & she also gave us the name of a biking trail off of the boardwalk that sounded like fun.

We finally arrived in sunny San Diego in the early afternoon. We stepped out into the warm, summer air with excited smiles on our faces. We called for an Uber to take us to an Airbnb, a cozy loft apartment over our host’s home that featured a balcony overlooking a neatly manicured yard with a thick palm tree growing up through the center.

We changed into our bathing suits & headed first to Mission Beach. Our first look at the West Coast was exhilarating. The ocean waves crashed deafeningly against the sand, sending a wind up to the boardwalk that blew back our hair & clothes.

The one thing we didn’t expect was how chilly the beach & water would be. I knew the California coast would be cooler than Maryland, but the water was absolutely freezing. Coupling that with the cooler, low-humidity California air made for a much chillier beach experience than I was expecting. We both ran into the waves to at least be able to say that we plunged into the Pacific Ocean, & then we decided to walk along the boardwalk instead.

For dinner, we had reservations at Bandar Restaurant in the Gaslamp Quarter, a Persian restaurant that we found excellent reviews for online. Globe lights hung from the awning, while dim light filled the dining room. Since it was our first fancy night out of our honeymoon, we ordered a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon to enjoy with our meal. For starters, we ordered the best spanakopita I have ever tasted (salty, creamy & with a perfectly balanced herby, spinach & feta flavor) & a basil pesto hummus with thin, crispy, pita bread squares. For dinner, Joseph ordered Barg, a marinated & charbroiled filet mignon served with basmati & saffron rice, & I ordered the Wild King Salmon, which was also charbroiled & seasoned with garlic, lemon & saffron & served with grilled vegetables. Both dishes were good, but I wish we had shared. It was so much food – I would have preferred smaller dishes with more variety of flavors rather than the large slab of meat. But it was still delicious & gave us lots of leftovers.

Joseph at Bandar Restaurant. We ordered spanakopita & pesto hummus with pita bread for our appetizers.

We headed back to our Airbnb & finally crashed in bed around 11:00. We had been awake for a full 24 hours after only a few hours rest & were desperately in need for a good night’s sleep.

Despite the lack of rest, we still woke up at a decent time Tuesday morning feeling ready to explore. We headed first to Mission Beach, where we rented bikes & explored the trail Melissa had recommended. We ended up biking about 13 miles, & although it was tiring, we had a blast. The water was gorgeous, & our trail led us around the entirety of Mission Bay & through the streets of busy San Diego.

Me biking on the boardwalk at Mission Beach

Famished from our long ride, we headed to Old Town San Diego for lunch. Again, per Melissa’s suggestion, we went to Casa de Reyes, & we were not disappointed. For a starter, we had chips with homemade salsa & fresh guacamole topped with chopped tomatoes & queso fresco. Within seconds of our starter being served, our main dish was also brought to our table on large warm plates. I ordered ‘Armadillo’ shrimp, which were bacon wrapped shrimp stuffed with crab & pepperjack cheese & drizzled with a creamy & spicy chipotle aioli. On the side was black beans with cheese & a zesty & fresh-tasting corn salad. Joseph ordered Mar y Tierra, which included the ‘Armadillo’ shrimp as well as succulent grilled skirt steak, frijoles puercos served in a corn tortilla, ensalada de nopales, guacamole, & pico de gallo served with warm flour tortillas. I have never had more delicious Mexican food. It was the perfect balance of salt, spice, & subtle sweetness that delighted our taste buds. To drink, Joseph ordered an El Rey Mojito made with Matusalem rum & agave nectar instead of sugar, & I ordered a specialty margarita called La Riviera Maya, which was a refreshing yet sweet blend of Frida Kahlo blanco tequila, Matusalem rum, coconut, strawberry, & pineapple juice.

Stuffed from lunch, we decided to stroll around the town. Surrounding the restaurant were a number of small shops filled with items shipped from Mexico or made by local artisans. We stumbled into a vegan chocolate shop, & despite still being full, we couldn’t help ourselves from ordering a small truffle each & a hot latte. Nibble Chocolate is a healthy chocolate store that makes its candy with just two ingredients: fresh cacao & sugar. There is no added milk or additives for preservation or added creaminess. Despite this, it is some of the creamiest, most delicious chocolate I have ever tasted. I ordered a lemon truffle, which had just the perfect amount of fresh lemon flavor to not be overbearing but to add just a touch of acid to the normally sweet treat. Joseph ordered a coffee truffle, & we both ordered lattes to go.

We continued walking into the nearby state park, where we visited Cousin’s Candy Shop to buy some freshly pulled salt water taffy for later (Joseph had never tried salt water taffy before!), & then continued window shopping until we were ready to go back to the Airbnb. We walked over a mile to a nearby grocery store to pick up some essentials for our upcoming road trip, & then took an Uber back to our Airbnb to rest after another long day.

For our third & final day in San Diego, we woke up early & headed to Balboa Park, where we hiked the Florida Canyon Trail. I have never seen succulents so big! They were just as large as the cacti we passed. I wish the ones in my pots at home grew to that size.

A cacti growing on the Florida Canyon Trail in Balboa Park, San Diego

After completing the short trek, it was time to visit one of the spots I was most looking forward to – the San Diego Zoo. I love animals, & I bought us tickets to the zoo months ago. As always, the elephants were my favorite, & we spent a large chunk of our time watching them walk around & eat. I got a little sad when I saw the polar bears in the summer heat, but a quick search online assured me that they are comfortable in the San Diego climate. The San Diego Zoo is committed to animal care & conservation of endangered species around the world, which is why I felt at ease visiting. As Joseph & I walked around, it was apparent that the zoo had made large efforts to keep the animals as comfortable & content as possible. Every section of the zoo was like walking into a new habitat, & all of the different animal homes were spacious, some of which even extending over top of the trail & into large rooms we had to carefully enter to not let them escape by accident.

We ate a semi-satisfactory meal at the Treetop Cafe (the food was good, but over-priced, as zoo food tends to be), & then we headed back into Balboa Park to explore. We went into the Spanish Village Art Center, where a number of local artisans had created shops filled with detailed paintings, delicate pottery, life-size statues, & more. We stopped by Daniel’s Coffee for some refreshments, & then walked around Balboa Park, stopping to stroll around the botanical gardens, admired the architecture, & listen to musicians.

As the afternoon waned, we called an Uber & headed to the Gaslamp Quarter, where we perused the shops until it was time for our reservation at The Lion’s Share. We had made the reservation when we saw that the restaurant offered charcuterie, the meal we served at our wedding. Because we ate very little at our reception, we wanted to have the chance to eat this delicious dish again. We sat down at our table & were surprised when our server brought us two glasses of champagne to toast our nuptials. We ordered the charcuterie, a starter on the menu, & enjoyed it with our sparkling wine. The charcuterie board changes daily at The Lion’s Share to feature whatever is most fresh – on this day, it had goat cheese, honey, strawberry compote, pickled mushrooms & cauliflower, whole-grain mustard, imported meats from Italy, & even more mouth-watering foods to create endless delicious combinations.

We were still hungry after finishing, so we ordered Duck in a Hole (another starter) & the Seared Scallops to share for an entreé. To drink, I ordered the Treehouse Realtor, a fruity mix of tequila, Campari, passionfruit, lime & soda, & Joseph ordered the St. Elizabeth Sexy Party, a much more bitter drink made with bourbon, cinnamon, chocolate bitters, & allspice dram. The Duck in a Hole could easily be my new favorite brunch dip. The runny egg yolk was tamed with creamy gravy & the savory duck, while the herb salad on the side gave a touch of earthiness. We sopped up the leftovers with the thick, perfectly buttered & toasted slice of bread. The seared scallops were served over a bed of soft couscous with a pool of creamy garlic sauce, & the result was a dreamy combination of saltiness & tang that was balanced by the delicate starchy flavor of the couscous. We cleared our plates &, despite our stomachs being full, still stared longingly at the menu, wanting to try more.

Duck in a Hole, served at The Lion’s Share

We took an Uber home & spent the evening organizing & re-packing our bags for the adventure ahead. Tomorrow, we will be renting a truck & heading to Los Angeles to officially begin the road trip portion of our honeymoon.

It feels so good to be back on the road. After over a year-long hiatus, Joseph & I both immediately feel back at home. Traveling is one of the things we do best together. Working together & exploring new cultures & experiences brings us closer, making it the perfect activity to do for our honeymoon. It’s ironic to me that we began our travels together just after the proposal, & now here we are, resuming our travels just after our wedding. I simply cannot thank enough all of the people who have supported us & helped to get us to this moment. We would not be who we are without you.

Now, let’s go on another (long-awaited) adventure together.