The fierce and hot Indiana sun awoke us as it streamed into our tent, baking us inside. We unzipped our tent door and gratefully gulped in the fresh air on the other side. The day had only just begun, and already, there was sweat dripping down my forehead and back.
Today’s plan was to drive south to Mammoth Cave in Kentucky. We stopped for coffee on the way and listened to our book on tape. When we arrived, we found the parking lot filled almost to capacity. I highly recommend booking your tour ahead of time, which, thankfully, I had the forethought to do before our trip.
We ate a quick lunch at our car and then walked around the air-conditioned discovery center and shop. I particularly enjoyed learning about how the caves formed and the other life forms that live within them. Mammoth Cave was formed naturally through karst topography, or limestone erosion. The caves have been forming since 10,000,000 BCE, when rainwater first began to dissolve the limestone and form the first passages of the cave system. The caves were first explored and mined by Native Americans 5,000 years ago. There are multiple wildlife species that live in the caves, including crayfish, bats and, my personal favorite, the eyeless cave fish. These fish have evolved to the lack of light in the caves by ceasing the growth of their eyes. White in color and only a couple inches in length, these fish can go months without eating and live thirty to forty years! Considering the lifespan of this fish, the amount of time it can go without eating, and its lack of sight, I still find myself thinking about them and wondering how they spend their time.
When the time for our tour arrived, we gathered with our group at a pavilion outside, where we were given our safety instructions and a lantern with a flame dancing inside. We walked down a steep, paved slope together to the mouth of the cave.
The air cooled around us. I pulled on my jacket and held the lantern a little closer. The light faded away, leaving only the artificial lights that had been placed around the cave and the lanterns we held in our hands. We passed by other groups gathered in the cave, who watched with interest as we passed. I had signed us up for the Violet City Lantern Tour, the only tour in the cave that is done entirely in lantern light, just as early explorers would have seen the caves.
As we delved deeper into the cave system, all other lights faded away. We walked with our lanterns held at our sides, our eyes flitting around the dark cave walls as they adjusted to the dim light. We could see very little than the few feet around us, lit by the warm glow. The wide trails narrowed into winding dirt paths, the same historic trails early explorers followed. While we walked, our tour guide told us more about the history of the caves. We passed small, stone huts, and our guide told us about the tuberculosis patients who were “treated” here because it was believed there was something special about the clean and cool cave air. We learned about the dangers early explorers faced and the Kentucky Cave Wars, when developers and promoters of the cave fought over tourists to show them their section of the cave system. We peered at ancient drawings and gaped down at steep drops beside our feet that seemed to end in nothingness.
The tour lasted a total of three hours, but the time passed quicker than expected. I was shocked by the sticky warmth that greeted us when we emerged from the caves at the edge of a road surrounded by thick, green foliage. A tired bus chugged up the hill to meet us.
We rode back to the visitors center and then hopped back into our car to drive to the edge of Kentucky and Indiana, where our first and only Airbnb of the trip was located. I am always surprised at how luxurious showers feel after days of going without one. Despite the heat outside, I could not help myself from turning the water to scalding and relaxing in its spray.
We dressed in clean clothes and drove to Louisville, KY, where we strode across the Big Four Pedestrian Bridge back into Jeffersonville, IN. As we walked, we watched the orange sun dip behind the clouds as we listened to classical music playing from speakers overhead.
In Jeffersonville, we decided to dine at Harry’s Tap House, where we could sit outside and watch the bridge light up as the sky darkened. We were served by a young, blonde woman with a thick Kentucky accent. To drink, I ordered a summertime sangria made with peach schnapps and sweet peach puree. For an appetizer, we chose the pretzel and beer cheese – the fried Klaus pretzel, made by a renowned local baker in Louisville, was served hot with a creamy house-made beer cheese dip. I am sorry to say this, because I have visited Pennsylvania on numerous occasions and always ordered a famous Philly pretzel, but I think it was the best pretzel I have ever eaten. Crisp on the outside, soft on the inside, with the perfect, mouth-watering amount of salt, it melted against my tongue and felt warm in my chest. I wished I had ordered three more and just had that for my meal.
For dinner, I ordered the mango bourbon salmon, a chilean salmon served with refreshing mango salsa. It was served with a sweet Thai broccoli smothered in sauce, and in place of the rice, I ordered a side of Brussels sprouts that were also drenched in an Asian sauce. Joseph ordered the smokehouse burger, which was a half pound burger served with crispy bacon, smoked cheddar cheese, beer battered onion rings, and tangy barbecue sauce.
Stomachs bursting, we walked back to the Big Four Pedestrian Bridge, which was now lit up against the night sky. I savored the walk across, taking in the view of the skyline beneath the white moon and the blue lights of the bridge that glittered against the black water below.
It was amazing to go in one day from marveling at the walls of a cave to gazing at the tall buildings of a city – a wonder created by nature, and another created by man. Our travels have not yet taken us outside of the United States, and I find myself often wishing to see something truly old. Most of what we have seen in our travels has been created within the last couple hundred years, whereas, in countries like Europe, you could marvel at a building that is centuries old. Today, however, I was reminded that, even if our buildings had not been erected that long ago, we still have structures here that are just as ancient – mountains, rivers, trees and caves. And that made me wonder just how many parts of nature I see regularly, even around my own home, and take for granted. I wonder how long the trees in my backyard have stood there, how long the rivers gushing around my home have existed, how many others have walked this land before me, and how different it must have looked then.
There is something amazing to be seen anywhere, if only we take the time to look. And sometimes, we may be surprised to discover the wonders we are looking for are actually hidden beneath our feet.
What about your life excites you? What makes you get up out of bed in the morning and stay motivated during your day? For some of us, it’s simple, like our morning cup of coffee, followed by an afternoon cup later on. For others, we are inspired by our work or our families.
I realized on my very first trip with Joseph that exhaustion does not quite hit the same way on the road as it does at home. Excited for every day and the new experiences it would bring, I could survive on limited sleep and caffeine for days. Back at home, I require a full eight hours and some activity requiring me to pull myself out of bed early, or I will sleep even longer.
Today, after two very full days and nights with little sleep, that exhaustion was beginning to rise, but we still rose with the sun, packed up our car, and drove to our first stop as if we were much better rested than we were. We started our day at Cataract Falls, a recreation area with the largest waterfall in Indiana. Technically, it’s two waterfalls that create one big waterfall – the upper falls has a fall of twenty feet, while the lower falls (half a mile downstream) has a plunge of eighteen feet. We started at the upper falls, where we held ourselves up on the railing to avoid stepping onto the flooded wooden platform. The sound of the rushing water was deafening. The falls glided over the rocks and plunged into the water below. Lush greenery surrounded the water and sparkled with water droplets.
We walked through the woods to the next set of falls, which flowed down into a river where children were splashing in the water. Despite having traveled and fallen so far, the water was surprisingly calm, and that peace seemed to emanate into us as we gazed at the gorgeous cascades.
Upper Cataract Falls
Our next stop was Indianapolis, another surprisingly clean city. Our plan had been to go to the City Market, which was similar to yesterday’s West Side Market, though it seemed there were many more ready-to-eat food options available. However, we arrived a little too early and found most of the shops were not open yet. Stomachs grumbling, we decided to hunt for food elsewhere. After a quick search, we settled on a local brunch chain called Wild Eggs, which was only a half-mile walk away.
From the eclectic and bright, egg-themed decor to the variety of tasty menu options made with fresh and local ingredients, it was clear why this spot was so highly rated. Joseph and I sat at a booth and pointed and laughed to the many different paintings featuring eggs on top of mushrooms, arranged to look like flowers, inside avocados, and more.
For our meal, we ordered one of their special appetizers, breakfast popcorn, which was thick cut bacon drenched in syrup and served with a spicy dipping sauce. As someone who does not eat a lot of meat, it was not my favorite dish, but Joseph would have eaten the entire plate if I had not reminded him he still had his meal coming. Joseph ordered chicken and waffles, which were perfectly crispy and fluffy and tasted the perfect blend of sweet and salty with some syrup drizzled on top. I ordered the farmers market skillet, a blend of bell peppers, zucchini, yellow squash, wild mushrooms, broccoli, oven-roasted tomatoes, and home-fried potatoes, topped with melted cheddar cheese with two basted eggs like little suns sitting in clouds, all served in a white skillet serving dish. On the side, I received a homemade blueberry muffin that was so delicious, I couldn’t help but eat despite my stomach being close to bursting. To drink, Joseph ordered the chocolate kiss, a hot coffee spiked with coffee liqueur, Irish cream and creme de cocoa, topped with a generous dollop of whipped cream. There were a variety of mimosas also available – I chose the orange pineapple mimosa, which was a bright sweet and citrusy treat.
Stomachs groaning from the amount of food, we decided to walk around for a little while. We stopped for coffee at Starbucks, where we also purchased our first Been There series mug of the trip, and then perused the shops. We took note of the colorful streets adorned with flags of all colors of the rainbow, which I was surprised to see considering the conservative lean of the state. However, I learned later that Indianapolis is a dark blue section of the state surrounded by much more red. Therefore, pride flags were everywhere to see, and they were, well, proud of it. One of our favorite shops was Silver in the City, an unconventional gift store that sells jewelry, clothing, bags, books, and more. I am not sure if the store was just in Pride theme for June, or if it always has a similar collection, but Joseph and I both dragged each other around the store, smiling and laughing at the creative, funny and affirming items for sale.
Our stomachs now a bit more comfortable, we drove to Bluespring Caverns. The park does not take reservations for their boat tours, so we needed to arrive early enough that we would not miss our opportunity, and hopefully at a time where we would not be waiting too long for the next available tour. We pulled in just as the next tour was about to leave. We hurried inside, paid for our tour, and joined the group descending down the slippery sidewalk into the caverns below.
Even while we could still see sunlight, the air grew cold around us. I slipped into my jacket and stepped carefully down the steep decline to where boats were tied to a pier built beneath the ground. We sat on the benches in the boat, and our tour guide sat at the back to guide us through the caverns in the longest navigable underground river in the United States.
The caverns grew dim and quiet. The motor of the boat was so soft, we could still hear the occasional drip of water or scuttle of a cave fish below. The walls were slick and glinted in the boat’s light, although we were told not to touch them. The oils on our hands would immediately cease the growth of these formations. We floated through, gazing in wonder at the limestone formations. We learned on our tour that Indiana is known for its minerals, particularly limestone, which has been used in the capital in DC and the Taj Mahal in India. For this reason, anyone who owns land above ground also owns anything underneath their property.
As we reached a larger room where our boat could rest, our tour guide gave us the unique opportunity to experience the complete removal of our senses. First, we were given the opportunity to experience total silence – everyone was instructed to be quiet. Immediately, the caverns fell silent around us. There was not a single sound – not a drop of water, not an animal scuttling along the walls, not even my own heartbeat. For the first time in my life, I truly understood the phrase, “silence is deafening.” Faced with such a complete lack of noise, my ears strained hard to hear anything, and they seemed to create almost a faint ringing in my head, reminiscent of the way it sounds after a loud concert.
After this, we were plunged in total darkness. Our tour guide instructed us to put away all phones and cameras and turned off the lights of the boat. Darkness more complete than I had ever experienced encased us. It felt thick and suffocating. I could not even see my own hand in front of my face. I had thought before, on dark nights, I knew what darkness was, but this, underneath the ground and away from all forms of natural and artificial light, was like something out of a nightmare.
With the lights back on, our tour guide gave us one last experience of cave thunder. She took a seat cushion in her hands and, after instructing us all to remain silent, banged it against the benches. The resounding echoes through the caverns ricocheted off the walls, creating a sound reminiscent of thunder slowly rolling across the landscape. I smiled at the sound, remembering humid summer nights with lightning streaking across the sky and rain throwing itself against my windows as I sat curled with a book, watching the storm.
Joseph and I left the tour, both marveling at the unique experience – it had truly been unlike anything we had ever done before. Our travels often take us to places high in the sky, but never had we traveled so far below the ground.
Our next stop was Santa Claus, IN. Despite the time change working in our favor, we still arrived at the town much later than we had hoped. After checking the clock, we realized most of the town’s attractions were closing in just five minutes.
Joseph, who knows just how much I love Christmas and was looking forward to visiting, did not want us to miss our opportunity. He pulled the car onto the road fast and sped to the Santa Claus Museum, just two minutes before it closed. We found the door to the museum already locked, but lights were still on inside. I gave a tentative knock, hating myself for doing so – I remembered all too well my days in customer service, and the feeling of closing up shop when no customers were in the store, only to have someone arrive a few minutes before I was able to leave.
The door opened, and we found two women inside.
“We know you’re about to close, but can we just have a quick look around?” Joseph asked. The woman behind the desk smiled at us and gestured for us to come in.
“I’ve got this,” she said to the woman at the door. “You can go home.” She turned on the lights for us and asked if we had ever been here before. When we said we hadn’t, she explained the layout of the museum to us – where we could learn more about the history of the town, read letters written to Santa Claus all the way back to the early 1900s, the gift shop, the model train room, and Santa’s office. She seemed disappointed we would not have the entire experience, and after a while, she ended up turning on Christmas lights and music for us to enjoy while we perused.
“Take your time,” she repeated to us multiple times. “Enjoy it.” As I gleefully skipped to another room with the excitement of a child on Christmas morning, I heard Joseph tell the woman just how much I love the holiday and how special this was.
We read about the history of the town – originally called Santa Fee, the town applied for a post office in the 1850s. Its application was rejected because there was another town called Santa Fe in Indiana. According to legend, it was Christmas Eve, and the town was gathered to discuss new possible names. Suddenly, a gust of wind blew open the doors to the church, and sound of sleigh bells drifted inside. The children ran to the door shouting, “Santa Claus!” And thus, the name of the town was decided.
For over a hundred years, letters have poured into Santa Claus, IN from children with their Christmas wishes. Every December, letters have been written back, by the volunteer “elves” or even the ultimate postmaster, Santa Claus himself.
We read through the letters, which brought us both to laughter and tears at the childhood love and innocence captured inside. It was neat to compare the wishes of children in the early 20th century to now, and surprisingly, they did not seem all that different. We watched the train circle the track and turned the globe on Santa’s desk. When we were finished, the woman handed us a set of keys and gave us the opportunity to go into the historic church and post office, where we would have the opportunity to write a letters of our own.
The church was as it was years ago, with a partition as soon as you walked in to separate men and women. At the front, an almost life-size nativity sat. I sat down in a wooden pew and was reminded vividly of a field trip when I was in elementary school to a one-room schoolhouse. This place was just as old and filled with memories.
We met our guide at the post office, where we were given papers and pencils to write our letters. We sat in desks designed for much smaller people and, after a moment of thinking, began to write.
The post office in Santa Claus, IN where we got to write our letters
We thanked our host profusely before we left – she had given us almost an hour of her time, when she should have been home by now. She informed us this was her job after retirement, and she does it simply because she loves it so much. It had been a truly heartwarming experience for us, and multiple times I was brought to tears by just how grateful I was that we had not missed it.
We stopped by the store for some more wine and charcuterie (we had not had our fill the night before), and drove to our campsite. There, we started a fire and sat beside a lake as we ate and watched the sky slowly dim from blue to pink to indigo.
Christmas means quite a lot to me. There was a period in my life when every day, the first thing I did when I woke up was check how many days there were left until the holiday. Until this day, I still start planning my gifts in July. Joseph and I do activities all December long to celebrate advent, and we most likely will be celebrating Christmas in July as well. The thing that got me up in the morning, for many years, was just that one special day.
It seems silly, but for me, Christmas was something to look forward to when there was not much else in my life to be excited about. I had a very long hospital stay in the month of December when I was in high school, and I got out just in time for Christmas. Still frail and very dejected, I remember, in the middle of Christmas baking at home alone, climbing onto the counter to be closer to the radio so I could listen to Christmas song playing as tears streamed down my face. It felt like Christmas had almost been stolen from me, and I vowed to never let that happen again. As my health worsened, I looked forward all year to the holiday season, which was so filled with love and joy that it spilled light into what was the darkest time in my life.
I am grateful now to have so much more worth waking up for. I do not remember when I stopped checking the Christmas countdown daily – it probably faded to every couple days, to once a month, to now the occasional check every couple months and the stir of excitement I still feel when I see the numbers tick down. And as my need for Christmas cheer year-round faded, I filled that space with joy from other areas of my life – strong friendships, sharing my writing, my career, my ever-improving health, my adoring husband, traveling the country, my sweet puppy.
Christmas may seem to be an odd thing to motivate someone, but for me, it quite literally saved my life in a lot of ways. And when I think about it, it does not seem to me to be such an awful thing to rely on. It is dependable – it comes every year, whether we want it to or not. It is filled with family gatherings, normally whether we want that or not, too. And no matter what, it has a crisp air filled with hope, a joy that warms even the frostiest hearts, and a love that surpasses understanding. For me, as I have found hope elsewhere in my life, I have tried to carry those values with me, so maybe I can bring a little of that spirit anywhere I go. After all, I think we all could use a little more joy, love and hope.
No matter what it is that excites you to wake up in the morning, the glimmers you find throughout your day, the hope that keeps you alive, embrace it. Others may find it strange to find an adult running through Santa Claus, IN with more excitement than any child visiting, or, as I have encountered more often in my life, people unfortunately often chastise others for talking too much about their passions, for being “obsessed” with the things they love. There is nothing wrong with enjoying this life, with noticing the little things others take for granted, for being excited about something that brings you joy. Embrace your glimmers and hold them tight to your heart.
And if you want to share them with someone, I’m always here with a cup of coffee and an eager ear. More than anything else, my biggest glimmer has become listening to others speak about what they are passionate about, even if it holds no interest to me. I love seeing that light brighten in someone’s eyes, to listen to their voice pick up speed and pitch and watch as their hands start move enthusiastically as they speak. I love just being human with someone. It gives me hope to listen to other people’s stories and to encourage their passions.
There is something nostalgic and comforting about waking up surrounded by baby Christmas trees. The sun’s golden light was just beginning to peek through the trees, bathing them in a gentle mint green color. The campsite was quiet as Joseph and I packed up our car and headed to our first stop of the day.
Cuyahoga Valley was established as a national recreation area in 1974 – this land was protected to give residents of Ohio the opportunity to enjoy nature and outdoor recreation, even in such a short distance to nearby cities. In 2000, the park was re-designated as a national park.
We decided to hike the Ledges Trail and Pine Grove Trail Loop. As the hike began, I found myself wondering what was so exciting about this highly rated trail. It had been rated as moderately challenging, but there was less than 300 feet of elevation, and all we could see were the expected trees that adorn the edges of most trails.
I became very excited when we came across a patch of little mushrooms in a row. With them being all different shapes and colors, it looked like a little fairy village. It was at this point, as I watched the mushrooms glisten in the sun’s light, that I told Joseph about what I had recently learned about glimmers.
Glimmers are the small things in life that bring you joy. Working in holistic health, we talk a lot about triggers – the things in life that bring up trauma or difficult feelings. Triggers are often unexpected, but by working with a licensed therapist, you can begin working on identifying, dealing with and, when possible, avoiding triggers. Glimmers are the exact opposite. Like triggers, we can track them and identify the things that bring us joy, and this can increase mindfulness in the moment as we notice them, or we can purposefully bring more glimmers into our daily lives. For me, on a trail that looked like something I probably could have walked close to my own home, these little mushrooms brightened my entire morning.
Shortly after this, we finally stumbled upon what was actually supposed to make this trail special. Tall, stone ledges stretched above our heads, forming valleys and caves that, when we traversed inside, were wet and chilly. We found ancient carvings in the rock and wondered how long these formations had been here and how many people had walked through them. According to the National Park Service website, these geologic formations were part of the Sharon Conglomerate, which is made of sandstone and expands into Pennsylvania and Maryland. It was formed millions of years ago.
The ledges in Cuyahoga Valley
After our hike, we jumped back into the car and drove to the West Side Market in Cleveland. The city was bright and clean, a surprise to me after having walked through many cities that were the exact opposite. The West Side Market included an open-air market with fresh produce, and an enclosed space filled with butchers selling meat and cheese, a smelly fish market, and glass cases filled with mouthwatering pastries.
There was not much of a selection of ready-to-eat food, so out of necessity, Joseph and I got in line at a stand where we could buy coffee from City Roast Coffee and Tea and crepes from Crêpes de Luxe. We ordered our usual latte and americano, and then I ordered a crepe filled with fresh spinach, egg and cheese, and Joseph ordered his first crepe ever, filled with an assortment of meats and cheeses. We watched as the crepes were made in front of us, cooked on a steaming hot plate.
We were handed our crepes wrapped in paper and placed in cardboard cones that still felt too hot to hold. With our food in one hand and coffee in the other, we walked up the stairs to a narrow platform with a bench that overlooked the bustling market below. We bit into our crepes and each gave a resounding, satisfied sound of approval. It was the most delicious crepe I have ever tasted. The crepe itself was light and fluffy, and the flavors inside were perfectly balanced – the earthiness of the spinach delicately interplayed with the salty egg and creamy cheese. We didn’t even mind the scalding butter running down our hands as we savored every bite.
Before returning to our car, we stopped at another stand to try Ohio’s famous treat – buckeyes. Buckeyes are balls made of peanut butter and sugar and dipped into chocolate, creating something reminiscent of a Reese’s cup but with at least four times the amount of peanut butter. Joseph surprised me by stating he had never tried a buckeye either! I had never had an authentic one from Ohio, but I had made them homemade many Christmases ago. The two of us sat on a bench outside the market to enjoy.
Immediately upon biting down, I felt a rush of sugar to my head. The peanut butter was thick and overpowering, laden with literal chunks of white sugar. The chocolate melted beautifully against my tongue. I took a sip of coffee and savored the the bitter taste that felt quite needed after such a sweet bite. Joseph enjoyed the treat, although he mentioned dark chocolate would have been a better choice, which I had to agree with – a little bitter to counteract all that sweet would have been a much more balanced bite.
Now practically buzzing from caffeine and sugar, we forced ourselves back into the car and drove farther north to Huron. We parked at a beach alongside Lake Erie, where, despite the gray clouds above, families gathered in the warm sand and children splashed in the shallow water. The two of us walked down to the end of the wooden boardwalk, where a long row of rocks and choppy waters separated us from the Huron Lighthouse. Before us stood a sign detailing the history of the site and a tower viewer to look more closely at the lighthouse.
The base of the white lighthouse was cube shaped. It then angled upward, like the roof of a house, and from the top sprouted a tall, rectangular tower, like a very tall chimney. The current Huron Lighthouse was actually the third one made. The first one was destroyed by a storm, and the second one had to be replaced when the pier was extended. The current lighthouse was constructed in 1939, and it was one of the first lighthouses in Lake Erie to provide an electrically powered beacon, which can be seen for over twelve miles. From our vantage point through the tower viewer, we watched as seagulls flew around the tall tower and rested on top.
I was still riding my sugar high, but Joseph, it seemed, had crashed during the drive, so we stopped for an ice cream cone before getting back in our car and driving to D&D Smith Winery, a small winery run by a family of four and located in an unassuming house right off the road. When we arrived, there were many jovial customers gathered inside for a local wine competition, for which many had brought their own homemade wines for customers to taste and rate.
The tasting process was unlike any I had before. We were given a tray with a dry erase sheet and a marker. On the sheet were over thirty circles, and written inside each was a different kind of wine. We marked the ones we wanted to try, and then little cups filled one-ounce servings of the wine indicated were placed on top of each circle. Joseph and I sat at a picnic table outside to sample our wine.
One thing I learned about Ohio wines is that they are sweeter than the average wine. At first, I thought maybe it was just my taste, or this particular winery, but upon further research, I found this was actually true. Ohio uses a variety of hybrid, non-vinifera grapes that tend to create sweeter tasting wines, and many wines are also made with a blend of grapes and other fruits and extracts. Lastly, because of the grapes used and whatever distillation process is favored, there is more residual sugar in Ohio wines than the average wine on the market, which means even the wines marketed as “dry” or “medium bodied” are sweeter than their average counterparts.
Sweet wines are not normally my cup of tea (or “glass of wine” – get it? Okay, never mind, moving on). However, I still enjoyed tasting all the different flavors and trying some I normally would not buy. The Blissful Ignorance was exactly as it was described – a crisp, medium-bodied white wine with fruity tones. The Cabernet Sauvignon was also good – not the best cabernet I have ever had (although, a cab enjoyed in the Dutch town of Solvang in the middle of California is hard to beat), but it was thick on my tongue and had a delightful flavor. The 401 W, a dry blend of red wines, was also decent. The Strawberry quite literally brought a smile to my face – it tasted just like the strawberry jam of my childhood. I had to fight off the urge to make a peanut butter sandwich and dip it right into the cup. The This n’ That, an award-winning wine, was unfortunately not my favorite – to me, it tasted very much like grape medicine. But, I have to admit, my parents force fed me grape medicine as a child, and now I have an aversion to anything that tastes remotely grape-flavored besides literal grapes. Our final taste of He Said She Said, a raspberry/blackberry wine, reminded me of one of my favorite wines served at the Renaissance Festival and made me all too excited for the coming fall season.
The afternoon was slowly fading into evening, and we still had a long drive ahead of us. We bought a bottle of wine and some charcuterie to go and hopped back into our car to drive to our campsite in Indiana. As we drove, we listened to an audiobook on tape (one of my favorites – 19 Minutes by Jodi Picoult) and watched as the sky darkened ominously around us and then went back to sunlight as we crawled our way through a tornado watch. We held hands and chatted, and I was reminded of our first road trip to Colorado, newly engaged, hours spent in the car, filled with excitement and love.
I took note as we drove to how late the sun remained in the sky. We were getting close to a time zone line – tomorrow, it would be an hour earlier in Central Time. But even as 9:00 approached, golden light still spilled across the fields of tall grass and crops. Swarms of birds sat on power lines that bobbed across the landscape and disappeared into the blushing sky beyond. Fluffy, cotton candy pink clouds floated lazily above us as we drove on empty roads. I began counting to see just how many cars we passed, and I was amazed by just how few were out. Despite the late hour, I could not imagine any time of day in Maryland when I would ever be on the road alone for so long. Life seemed to pass by a little slower and taste a little sweeter out here.
The world faded to a gentle peach haze as the sun dipped away. I smiled at the beauty around me, and one word came back to my mind: Glimmers.
It’s quite easy to find glimmers on vacation or on a lazy weekend day. It gets much harder when life is filled with challenges and, well, triggers. But glimmers can be as simple as watching the setting sun, enjoying your favorite book, or holding a loved one’s hand. It can be the taste of your favorite food, or even seeing something seemingly ordinary in a new way. This evening, for me, it was the beauty of the setting sun; the glint in Joseph’s eye when I know he, too, was savoring the moment; and his hand wrapped around mine.
There are glimmers everywhere to find, from tiny mushrooms to baby Christmas trees to big open skies. All we have to do is look for them.
October Sunday mornings in Vermont are crisp & quiet. Joseph & I drove through the bright orange, red & yellow leaves, both of us too in awe by their beauty to break the silence with conversation. There is something magical about Vermont in the fall that seems to evade any description. Words simply aren’t enough to capture its beauty.
Our first stop was Mount Peg. While the weather had been cold all weekend, Sunday was particularly frigid. We bundled up in our warmest hiking gear & then began the walk up through the trees to the summit.
The hike to the top from Woodstock is quick & only moderately challenging. Soon enough, the trees parted to reveal a stunning view of the town below. We sat together on a rustic wood bench, breathing heavy from the exertion of the climb & the unbelievable beauty of the view. Mountains painted in a rainbow of warm colors & dotted with small, white homes rolled across the landscape. Above us, birds soared with the wind. In the distance, we could just make out the familiar neat rows of pine trees, the hallmark trait of a Christmas tree farm.
Me & Joseph at the summit of Mount Peg
When we finally were able to tear ourselves away from the view, we hurried back down the mountain, stomachs rumbling. It was time for breakfast. We drove to The Skinny Pancake, a popular spot for good reason. We had to wait about an hour to be seated, but it was well worth it. There were an array of crepes to choose from, & each option sounded even more delicious than the last. We finally settled on a cheesy Veggie Monster Crepe for me, a Pulled Pork Crepe for Joseph, & a Hot Apple Crumble Crepe that was topped with a cold scoop of vanilla ice cream to share. On the side, we shared the most delicious waffle cut sweet potato fries I have ever tasted, which we dipped in ketchup & sweet Vermont maple syrup. To finish out the meal, we ordered a latte & americano, which were served to us in large, round mugs topped with foam art.
Stomachs more than satisfied, we headed back to the car for an afternoon of leaf peeping. The sky had been cloudy all day, but as we stopped to soak in the view, the sun made an appearance for just a moment, spilling golden light over the landscape & bathing the leaves in yellow. It seemed there was somewhere to stop every other minute. The views along Kelley Stand Road were especially beautiful. It took us far longer than it should have to make our way down the lane – we were too arrested by the view to go any faster.
After we finished our drive, we headed to Grout Pond for a hike around the water. The trail itself was a few steps away from the most beautiful views of the pond, & the clouds above unfortunately kept us hurrying forward. We did not want to get caught in another rainstorm like we had a few days ago. But we enjoyed the cool air in our lungs & the conversation that kept us moving forward.
It was nearly dark by the time we finished our hike. We stopped by an odd little town on our way to our Airbnb & bought pot pies to make for dinner. Then we drove the hour to a small campground, where we would be staying in a trailer for the evening. As I prepared dinner, Joseph started a small campfire & got out our s’mores fixings ready. We opened some wine & toasted the perfect weekend in Vermont, which was, unfortunately, nearly over now. Seated by the campfire, gazing up at the stars while roasting marshmallows, I remember experiencing that same magical feeling overtake me. There was something special about Vermont that I just couldn’t seem to grasp. But I knew it was the kind of magic you only experience once in a while, & instead of dreading when it’s going to leave you, it’s meant to be savored for every moment you exist within it.
Now looking back, I still can’t quite put my finger on what was so magical about Vermont. The leaves were unlike any I had ever seen before – the colors were vibrant & stunningly bright against the landscape, but I don’t think that is where the magic came from. There is a rich history to the place as well, & it excited me to walk across a landscape I knew so many long ago had also traversed. But still, I don’t think that was what the magic came from. The people were pleasant & seemed to love their home just as much as I loved visiting, but still, the source of the magic seems to be evading me.
It was something deeper. There seemed to be an energy around the place that beckoned people to come, sit back for a while & appreciate the view. And maybe it was just that – the way we were forced to slow down a little & just admire the beauty of this place. And perhaps the finality of the moment, the knowledge that these colors had just appeared & would soon be disappearing to be replaced with dreary cold, was what made them even more spectacular.
I wonder if that magical feeling would return if I took a step back from the busyness of life more often & just appreciated the view. If I took notice to the things that will only be here for a moment, & instead of feeling sad about that fact, I appreciated the beauty of endings, perhaps the finality of life would make it more special instead of sad.
I wonder if the magic actually lives within us all, if we are just as beautiful & magnificent as the views I was admiring in Vermont, & all it takes to bring it out in each of us is a recognition of just how special we are.
There is a strange sort of time warp that happens when traveling. Every day is so long & exhausting, every moment filled with new experiences. And yet, before you know it, the final day has arrived, & you are wondering where the time has gone.
Today is our final day in Glacier National Park. Tomorrow, we will be headed to Bozeman, Montana to get ready for our flight home the following morning. As it is with all of our trips, I cannot believe how fast the time has flown by. And, as with any of other trip, we had the same hope for our final day of traveling – that this day, this hike, & this view, would be the best of all, the perfect finale for an epic adventure.
We woke up early to drive the three hours around Glacier National Park to Many Glacier. Along the way, we stopped at a roadside stand for some coffees & a very disappointing breakfast burrito. We arrived a little later than we would have hoped, & we both dressed a little too warm for the unexpectedly hot sun. It seemed we were off to a rocky start as we began our ascent up to Grinnell Glacier.
The Grinnell Glacier hike is strenuous, filled with multiple switchbacks as you work your way up the mountainside. As if that wasn’t enough to take your breath away, the views along the way up are marvelous. We found ourselves constantly stopping to look back at the dark green pine trees that surrounded vibrant blue water. I will never get over the views in Glacier – it is truly the most beautiful place I have ever been.
As we neared the top of the hike, the air grew colder. Despite having just hiked hours through hot sun in far too many layers, we found ourselves throwing our jackets back over our shoulders. As we rounded the final corner, we were hit by a harsh wind that threatened to blow us back down the way we had come. We stood at the top, teeth chattering & bodies shivering, gazing in wonder at the view before us. Dark rocks led the way to water so blue it looked like the sky. Floating soundlessly, barely causing a ripple, were large chunks of ice like miniature icebergs. High above, the white snow of Grinnell Glacier melted into a waterfall that cascaded down the gray rock to form the lake we now sat beside.
It felt as if we had accidentally traversed into an arctic landscape. The light off the water & snow was blinding, & yet, I couldn’t help myself from continuing to gaze in wonder. I sat on the edge of the rock, my boots just out of reach of the frigid water lapping at the shore. Joseph, however, had something else in mind.
It was a baptism of sorts as he jumped into the freezing water. It’s been a long year of hard work, but coming home from this trip, he will be starting a new chapter of his life as a Clinical Mental Health Therapist, his dream job. I cannot even begin to express just how proud I am of his dedication & perseverance, & I am so excited to see what this next chapter of his life will hold.
Panting from the cold & shivering uncontrollably beside me, he pulled on his dry shirt & asked, “Are you going to jump in?”
“Absolutely not,” I said. As tempting as it was, I was perfectly content just soaking in the view in my blissfully warm hiking clothes.
It was a race against the clock on our way back down the mountain. We were eager to get back to the other side of Glacier with still a little daylight left. Joseph & I were starving by the time we reached the bottom, but there was no time to stop for food. We ate a quick snack on the drive, & arrived at Lake McDonald just in time for a final Glacier sunset seated on rainbow colored rocks.
It is hard to say goodbye to such a beautiful place. The mountains glowed orange, bathed in the light of the setting sun. We watched as the purple shadow slowly crept up the side of each mountain, submerging the Glacier landscape in darkness. As the tip of the final mountain slowly darkened, we bid farewell to this magnificent place.
On our way back to our campsite, we stopped at Glacier Highland, a motel & restaurant just outside the park with homestyle comfort food. To start, we ordered the Hiking Poles, which were sticks made of pillowy pizza dough topped with fresh mozzarella cheese, an earthy pesto sauce, fresh garlic, & a drizzle with olive oil to finish & served with hot marinara sauce. After a long day of hiking, they were the perfect treat. For dinner, Joseph ordered the Huckleberry Hound, a burger served with the restaurant’s homemade barbecue sauce & topped with crispy bacon, sautéed onion, & gooey havarti cheese. I ordered The Ptarmigan, a Middle-Eastern style salad with farro, chopped cucumbers & chickpeas tossed with a lemon-dill dressing & sprinkled with feta cheese. Overly satisfied, we drove back to our campsite & crawled into our sleeping bag, eager for a long night’s rest.
Our final day in Glacier National Park did not disappoint. The day was long & tiring, but the views were so spectacular, I barely even recalled the difficulty of the hike or the long drive to get there & back. And as I began to think about the idea of returning home, I suppose that is a great way to think about approaching all of the days of our lives. They can be long & exhausting, filled with moments we would rather gloss over or forget entirely. Disappointing breakfast burritos can be the start to rather disappointing days if that’s all we remember. But there are other moments that seem too special to allow to be tarnished by the difficulties that brought us there.
How much better would life be if, instead of trying to make ourselves forget the hard days, we embraced them as part of the hike up to the view we have been waiting for – the experience, the baptism & the start of a new chapter of our lives? It’s hard in the moment to recognize that, even though the trek is difficult, we are still headed to the top, getting closer & closer with every step. And as you skip down the mountain, there is no better feeling than realizing just how far you have come.
Life in general is a bit of a time warp. The days are long & exhausting, but before you know it, time has flown by. So, before you get too much further in your adventure, take a moment to stop & appreciate the view. You only get it for so long, & that in & of itself makes it too precious to go another second without notice.
One year ago, I woke up just as early as I did today with one thing in mind – marrying you.
I went for a run around the time you were waking up & making coffee in your hotel room. We deal with our nerves in different ways. But we were both thinking of the same thing.
I pinned sunflowers in my hair & you pinned one to your jacket. We spent the day surrounded by the people we love, but pointedly avoided one another. Divided only by a flight of stairs in the same house, it was tempting to see you, to talk about the excitement with you. You are the person I want to spend all my most exciting moments with.
It was a humid, August day, but I didn’t notice. I only know because guests told me afterwards. I stood before you in a white dress under an arbor adorned with sunflowers, & I promised myself to you.
We ate lemon cake, which was a mistake. I originally wanted lemon, but you hate anything citrus & I love you, so we chose peanut butter chocolate. But cutting into that yellow cake made us both happy because I love lemon, & you love me.
We danced the night away with our friends & family. The night flew by faster than expected. When everyone gathered outside for the final send off, we danced alone under the twinkly lights, serenaded by Louis Armstrong’s “La Vie En Rose.”
Joseph & me dancing our first dance on our wedding day
Today, we woke up early, & we still had the same thing in mind.
“Happy Anniversary,” I whispered.
“I was supposed to say it first,” you complained.
“Oh, sorry. Pretend I didn’t say it yet.” We looked up at the dark canvas of our tent, listening to the early morning sounds of the woods.
“Happy Anniversary,” you whispered, & I couldn’t help but smile.
“Happy Anniversary.”
I got ready & you made coffee. We drove into Glacier National Park, parked at Logan Pass, & began our trek into the mountains on the Highline Trail. It began with a narrow, rocky path with a steep fall to our left. We chatted with the other hikers & gazed out at the breathtaking view below. Our feet carried us above fluffy, white clouds & a valley bathed in pink from the early morning sun. We wound up the sides of mountains & over peaks, stopping to look down at cool glaciers, blue lakes & miles of pine covered mountains dusted in snow.
As the sun reached the center of the sky, we stopped to rest, & you pulled your phone from your pocket to read to me new vows you had written. I cannot believe how much our love has grown. I thought at the altar, I loved you as much as I possibly could. But today, I love you even more than I did yesterday, & I know tomorrow, it will be even more still. My heart only grows you, & that is one of the many reasons I know we were meant to be together. You help me to be, not only myself, but the person I have always wanted to be.
After our hike, we visited St. Mary for coffee & dinner. We ordered a glass of wine & toasted our year married & hopefully many more to come. As the sun lowered in the sky, we drove across the park to Lake McDonald. We sat together on the pebbly beach, gazing out in wonder at the colorful landscape before us. The setting sun was disappearing from the painted sky behind tall purple mountains, reflected into the clear, blue water below that rippled above rainbow colored stones.
When the sky grew too dark to see, we walked to get ice cream – huckleberry for me & chocolate for you. We sat on a park bench together, happily licking our frozen treats & shivering because it was far too cold for ice cream.
When we finished, we washed our sticky fingers & then drove to a nearby ranger station to participate in the park’s astronomy program. Amateur astronomers set up sophisticated telescopes so we could look at the stars, but headlights from nearby made it difficult to see & some rather overzealous participants made it difficult to learn. So we laid on the pavement a little farther from the group & just gazed up at the night sky together. We shivered as the air grew colder, but neither one of us wanted to leave. The stars were too beautiful & the night was too perfect. You offered me your jacket, & even though I refused, you draped it around my shoulders because you love me. And I snuggled close to you with a smile because I had planned this night for you & your fascination with the stars, & I love you.
One year ago, I didn’t know what the next twelve months would bring. I couldn’t have predicted what our happiest & saddest days would be. I didn’t know what mountains we would be climbing, both physically & metaphorically. I didn’t know when the promises we made to each other at the altar would be tested, & I certainly didn’t expect how much more that would grow our love for one another.
But I did know our love was true, and that no matter what life brought us to, I knew we would make it through together. Sunflowers & lemon cake, mountains & glacier lakes, stars & sunrises, arguments & compromises – it’s been a year of adventures, & I wouldn’t want to traverse this life with anyone else.
Joseph & I awoke at 4:30am for our first day in Glacier National Park. If you plan on driving your own car through Glacier, early wake up times are a must. The parking at Logan Pass at the top of the Going-to-the-Sun Road fills up fast, & besides this lot, there is very little parking to the trails in this area of the park. We drove the 15 minutes to Glacier & then sat in the line of cars waiting to get in when the gates open at 6am.
The mist was heavy as we drove our car into the park. As we passed through the tall pine trees that surrounded either side of the road, we gazed up in wonder at the tall shadows that loomed ahead of us, only to realize a moment later they were mountains.
The drive up Logan Pass can be nerve wracking. There is a short barrier separating your car from the drop below, but as you wind higher up into the mountains, you begin to realize that barrier can probably do very little to impede a speeding car. The views, however, are worth it. It was like stepping into a fantasy world. Forested mountains stretched on as far as we could see, basking in the early morning light. Every so often, waterfalls would tumble down the sides of these majestic beasts. Below us, clouds floated between the trees.
When we arrived at Logan Pass at 7:15, the lot was already nearly full. We parked our car, pulled on an extra few layers to fight against the chilly wind, & began our hike to Hidden Lake.
A good part of the hike had been made accessible with a wooden boardwalk that wound over the landscape. The only challenge was the consistent elevation. Every so often, we would stop to catch our breath & look back to watch the sunrise over the mountains behind us. Beside the boardwalk, pink, purple & yellow wildflowers swayed in the wind.
We reached the Hidden Lake overlook & were dismayed to see the remainder of the trail had been blocked off due to bear activity. We learned later a grizzly bear & her cubs had made their home around the lake & were attacking hikers that came too close. However, the view of the lake was still worth it. The harsh wind bit at our exposed faces & hands, & yet, we still stayed rooted to the spot, staring down at the crystalline blue water surrounded by tall, green fir trees. Already, the views in Glacier National Park had stolen the show. Nothing we had seen yet in our trip even came close in comparison to these magnificent views.
Running ahead of schedule because our hike had been cut short, we drove the remainder of the Going-to-the-Sun Road to St. Mary. Just as we were leaving the road, we slowed to a stop behind a line of cars that had ceased driving in the middle of the road. Confused, we peered through our windows, only to spot a black bear right beside the road! He was happily eating leaves from a small tree & paid little attention to us. His black fur looked silky soft, & his snout was nuzzling into the leaves, looking for a good bite. We watched him eat for a few moments before we had to drive on to let the drivers behind us see, but the bear remained a topic of conversation for the rest of the day. He was the first bear I had ever seen, & I understand now why black bears are said to be big teddy bears – he was adorable & looked sweet enough to hug, although I am sure if I had approached him, I would have felt differently.
We stopped at the ranger station in St. Mary to talk over the itinerary in our trip with a park ranger. Many of the trails we had planned to hike had also been closed due to bear activity, & every other trail had high bear warnings, a risk it seemed we would have to take. We adjusted our plans & then returned to our car with a new, very important mission: coffee.
Just a two-minute drive from the ranger station was a coffee shop serving espresso. Joseph & I ran inside, eager for a caffeine fix. I ordered a slice of lemon bread & the largest size of an almond milk latte available. Joseph ordered an americano & a coffee bombolone, an airy, Italian doughnut filled with sweet, espresso cream & topped with chocolate ganache.
After this, we took our time driving back over the Going-to-the-Sun road, stopping at overlooks to marvel at the views. One of our favorite stops was at the Sun Point Overlook, where we hiked a short distance up to a cliff side that overlooked St. Mary Lake. I have never seen water so blue! It truly looked like a photo from a travel brochure, overly saturated & edited to look appealing. But there it was, right in front of our eyes, against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains.
For our afternoon hike, we chose to do Avalanche Lake. The trail had some elevation, but most of the hike was relatively easy. And the ending view was more than worth it. Being up close to that perfect blue water felt like something out of a dream. It was so blue it looked tropical, but surrounded by cozy pine & fir trees. It was something I have never seen before & still cannot believe is real.
As we trekked back, the rain clouds that had been threatening to pour on us all day finally did. We scurried back to our car & decided to head out of the park early. Joseph suggested going out to eat, & because I had been dreading our evening freeze-dried meals all day, I happily accepted.
We chose Backslope Brewing, a brewery just a few minutes outside of Glacier National Park with delicious, inventive food. For an appetizer, we shared the Labneh Plate, a mediterranean-style dish with fresh, creamy labneh cheese, a nutty pistachio mint pesto, salty kalamata olives, & soft, warm pita bread. I had to stop myself from eating the full plate so I could still enjoy our main course. For dinner, Joseph ordered the Fried Chicken Sandwich, which is pickle-brined, served with a tangy house slaw, a creamy aioli, & a spiced tomato glaze. For a side, he ordered the Garlic Parmesan Fries, which are served homestyle & have the perfect level of saltiness that keeps you grabbing for more. I ordered the Sunshine VegBurger, which is a house-made veggie burger served with a creamy aioli, spicy pepper jack cheese, bitter microgreens, a tangy wing sauce, fresh tomato, pickled red onions & pineapple, & a sunny-side up fried egg. Even though our stomachs were full, we couldn’t help but finish every last bite.
Overly satisfied, we returned to our campsite & retired early to bed. We had another early morning awaiting us & a long hike through the mountains to look forward to the next day.
It feels good to be back in the mountains. The fresh air & sweet smell of pine is everywhere. Despite the cold, it feels cozy. There is a special kind of energy that exists in the mountains & calls to explorers & adventurers. It’s serene & yet bursting with life. It feels like home.
The mountains have called, & we are here to answer them.
The rain from the previous night continued into the early next morning. It was cold & wet when we awoke, the pitter patter of the water on our tent’s canvas walls singing like a lullaby & begging us to return to our warm sleeping bag. However, this was our last day in Yellowstone National Park, & we wanted to make the most of it.
Our first stop of the day was Mount Washburn. It was a long drive from our campsite, & by the time we reached the trailhead, the rain had stopped. We laced up our hiking boots, shrugged on our jackets, & began the trek up the mountain.
It was a chilly hike up, but the continual upward grade of the trail had us shedding layers after only a few minutes. All the while, we gazed around us at the breathtaking views of forested mountains illuminated by the warm glow of the early morning sun. As we walked, we heard an elk call through the trees, & we stopped for a few minutes, our breath hanging in front of us, hoping to hear the majestic sound again.
The clouds began to part just as we neared the summit. As we stepped onto the mountain peak, we were gifted with beautiful, clear blue skies & a gorgeous view of the valley below. Surrounding us on all sides were tall mountain peaks & fluffy white clouds. We had just enough time to take a few photos before the dark clouds rolled in again, obscuring our view.
Me at the summit of Mount Washburn
The hike back down the mountain went by faster than the trek up. As we walked, we were met by a group of middle school-aged kids, who we recognized as the group we had crossed paths with just a few days earlier. The same kid from the Fairy Falls hike looked at us, caught sight of Joseph’s Colorado hat, & asked once again,
“Wait, I feel like we asked them that before!” the kid next to him exclaimed.
“She has a Maryland hat!” another kid exclaimed. Joseph & I laughed down the mountain. It was such a simple encounter, but the chances of running into the same kids for a second time, now on the last day of our trip in Yellowstone, felt almost fortuitous.
After we finished our hike, we headed to Tower Fall for lunch. The overlook did not provide much of a view – we could just barely make out the distant falls through the foliage of the trees. Joseph & I gazed at the plummeting water for a moment before we could evade our hunger no longer. We grabbed our food from the car & set up at a nearby picnic table for some much needed sustenance.
Since we had some extra time to spare, we decided to visit the Mammoth Hot Springs. Much of the area is still closed due to flooding, but the area around the springs is thankfully reopened for visitors.
As soon as we arrived, I was grateful we had come. The Mammoth Hot Springs are unlike anything I have ever seen. White & orange rock cascaded down like water, glistening in the sun’s light. We learned the incredible colors of the springs have been created over thousands of years as the hot water from the geothermal springs cooled & deposited calcium carbonate.
Walking around the springs, it felt as if we had traveled somewhere else in the galaxy rather than just another spot in Yellowstone. If I had seen photos of the white & orange landscape with barren trees poking out of the surface, it would not have taken any convincing to make me believe I was looking at Mars or another distant planet in our solar system.
The hike itself is not one I would recommend. We took the Mammoth Terraces & Upper Terrace Loop Trail, & it led us over the service road around the park, which had quite a bit of elevation & no shoulder for us to walk. We were constantly on edge as cars came flying down the hill we were climbing. By the end of the hike, we were hot & tired & had unfortunately seen very little of the actual attraction.
After our hike, we drove back to our campsite to shower & buy some wine. This was our final night in Wyoming, & we wanted to celebrate. We drove back to our spot on Yellowstone Lake from previous day, laid out our towels & relaxed. We ate dinner & drank our wine, watching the sun set & the ducks swim in the serene, still lake. When the sky grew dark, we returned to our campsite to make s’mores.
Just as we were scraping the marshmallows from out sticks with graham crackers & chocolate, the sky opened. Thunder rolled over our heads as rain poured down. We hurriedly doused our fire in water, grabbed our pajamas & dove into our tent. Soaked, laughing & happily eating our gooey, sweet s’mores, we leaned back with satisfied sighs.
Our Yellowstone adventure has come to an end. I have never seen anything like the colorful springs & explosive geysers we saw on this trip. Everywhere we went in the park, there was something new to see, & I was amazed by just how variable the landscape was. From geysers to waterfalls to tall mountains, there was always something new to see & explore.
The trip is not over, but this chapter is finished. Thank you Yellowstone for the adventure. Walking on this ancient land, it felt much like traversing into a different time. Often on our trips, we get to connect with locals & other travelers, & we always deliberately try to learn about where we are visiting & the people that live there. But Yellowstone connected us to something deeper – a rich history & a place where many have stepped on the land before us. Yellowstone was the first National Park to exist, & I can only hope that it will continue to be a special place for people to visit for generations.
The world is growing hotter, & Yellowstone is no exception. Because of the pollution of the world, & the unfortunate deliberate pollution of some visitors, the park’s springs & geysers already look much different than they did before. Species of animals, such as the ptarmigan, have been forced to move because of the hotter temperature. It is not often we are able to directly look at the effects of global warming, but visiting Yellowstone gave us a clear look at what our existence on this planet & the way we have treated it has affected other species & our home.
Making a change now won’t bring back the Yellowstone of 100 years ago. But it can ensure that Yellowstone National Park is still a place our children & grandchildren can one day visit. It can ensure that species of animals will not go extinct & the ecosystems unique to this park continue to thrive.
I am a strong believer that small changes make a big difference. No one person can stop global warming or save our planet, but when many of us incorporate just a few sustainable living practices into our daily lives, it can truly have an impact on a grander scale.
It’s been 150 years since Yellowstone was declared the world’s first national park. Let’s work together to make sure it remains the unique landmark it is for 150 more.
It’s day four of our Wyoming & Montana road trip, & I can already tell it is going to go by way too fast. After one full day spent in Grand Teton National Park, it is already time to move on & begin exploring Yellowstone.
It was a rough night’s sleep in the campground. I have been spoiled with a bed for far too long & had forgotten just how uncomfortable sleeping on the ground is. The cool mountain air that had seemed refreshing at first was much less so at 2:00 in the morning. I tossed & turned all night, waking multiple times every hour, to the point that I was eager to get up & get moving in the early morning rather than continue to try to sleep.
Joseph & I packed up our campsite together & began the hour-and-a-half-long drive to Old Faithful. As we entered Yellowstone National Park, the steam from the hot springs billowed onto the roads & clouded our vision. We followed the cars in front of us into a dense fog that obscured almost everything from view. Slowly & carefully, we made our way through the quiet park to our destination.
Old Faithful is a rather built up area of the park, complete with restaurants, grocery & souvenir shops, & a large, cabin-style lodge. We checked the geyser predictions first, & since we had about an hour until Old Faithful was planned to erupt, we decided to explore the shops. Upon entering the first building, we were immediately grateful for our decision – a cafe with a number of breakfast options &, more importantly, fresh espresso greeted us inside. Joseph ordered mini cinnamon buns & an americano, & I ordered a hot latte that spread through my cold limbs & filled me with a delightful warmth.
As the geyser prediction time approached, Joseph & I returned outside to find the now fully risen sun had warmed the landscape considerably. We sat with the other visitors, eagerly awaiting the famous geyser’s show.
After nearly 20 minutes of waiting, the steam coming from the risen mound of earth began to intensify. Water spurted up from the geyser hole, at first only jumping a few feet in the air, & then leaping high above our heads. The steam followed & floated high into the sky, sharing with distant onlookers the spectacle taking place.
It ended quicker than expected, & soon the geyser was quiet once again, steam rising innocently from its opening. From all around us, members of the audience clapped. We all stood & began to gather our belongings, eager to explore more.
Me at the Morning Glory Pool
From Old Faithful, Joseph & I walked around the Upper Geyser Basin. Every few steps brought another surprising creation of nature. Steam rose from all around us, the barren landscape resembling something of prehistoric times. We walked past pools of boiling water, ranging in color from bright yellow to grassy green to a beautiful, clear cyan. Our favorite was the Morning Glory Pool, which was the farthest away but definitely worth the wait. The brilliant colors of brown, yellow, green & blue faded into one another like a rainbow. Looking closely, we could see where the pool narrowed & disappeared into the earth below.
Yellowstone is the world’s first national park, & it is known for its unique hydrothermal and geologic features. According to the National Park Service website, “Yellowstone has the most active, diverse, and intact collections of combined geothermal features with over 10,000 hydrothermal sites and half the world’s active geysers.”
After our walk around the Upper Geyser Basin, we stopped at the Visitors’ Center to talk with a park ranger. Due to recent flooding, parts of Yellowstone National Park have been closed, & we wanted to make sure our itinerary was still possible. The ranger was increidbly knowledgeable & helped us adjust our plans & decide where to visit in the park during our short stay. We had intended on visiting the Mammoth Hot Springs & Lamar Valley, but with so much of those areas still closed, we rearranged our days & gave ourselves more time at the other places we wanted to visit.
Our next stop was Biscuit Basin, which was filled with even more geysers & colorful springs. After that, we headed to Fairy Falls. The hike was short & flat, so we decided to add a quick turnoff to overlook the Grand Prismatic Spring. It was a sharp change in elevation, & we were breathing heavy by the time we reached the top. But the view was more than worth it. The Morning Glory Pool we had seen earlier paled in comparison to this.
The Grand Prismatic Spring
The Grand Prismatic Spring was huge – measuring at approximately 370 feet, it is bigger than a football field & is the largest hot spring in Yellowstone. Its vibrant colors shown through the hot steam that billowed off of the water & into the air above. Surrounded by eager onlookers, we all gazed in awe at this wonder of nature.
On our way down from the overlook, we were met with a large group of what looked to be middle school-aged kids. They took a great interest to us & especially Joseph’s Colorado baseball cap.
“Are you from Colorado?” one of the kids called out.
“Nope,” Joseph called back.
“Oh.” The kids began to talk amongst themselves about this strange turn of events, & Joseph & I laughed all the way back down the hill.
There was not much to see for the rest of the hike on our way to the falls. The trail changed from a wide, dusty path to a thin gravel surrounded by tall pine trees. We chatted while we walked, taking note of the small chipmunks that scuttled around our feet & constantly on the lookout for larger wildlife.
When we arrived at Fairy Falls, Joseph & I were both taken aback by their beauty. Wispy water cascaded down the rock to a cool pool below, sending a mist over the nearest onlookers gathered on the rocks at its base. We sat together, drinking in the view & enjoying the rewarding rest before beginning the hike back our car.
Me taking photos at Fairy Falls
It was already getting late, but we had one last stop planned for our day. We hopped in our car & headed to Norris Geyser to hike the Porcelain Basin Trail. The geysers & springs were similar to those we saw on the Upper Geyser Trail & at Biscuit Basin, & yet we still marveled at the view. Neither of us had ever seen anything like them before. Yellowstone truly is a unique place that is worth visiting, whether you enjoy hiking, lying near a lake with a good book, or riding horses through the wilderness. Every section of the park is unique – in our first day alone we saw so many different things, & I can’t wait to see what other views it has to offer.
The drive to our campground was nearly two hours. We passed the time listening to music & talking. On the way, we were brought to a halt by stopped cars in front of us, only to realize there was a bison walking right beside the road! Lumbering along, he paid no mind to the cars passing by.
He, however, was not the greatest surprise the day held. Upon entering our campground, we saw a sign for showers! We had not expected to be able to shower until we reached Glacier National Park, as this had not been a promised amenity in our Yellowstone campground, & we were thrilled at the idea of getting clean after a long two days of hiking. We peeled into the parking lot, grabbed our toiletries, rented fluffy white towels, & rushed into the gloriously hot showers.
Feeling refreshed & sudsy clean, we checked into our campground. We set up our tent & made freeze dried meals for dinner – spicy sausage pasta for Joseph & grilled chicken & mushroom wild rice pilaf for me. I was unexpectedly pleased once again by how tasty the meal was, & soon we were seated by our campfire, feeling relaxed & satisfied.
As the sky grew darker, Joseph encouraged me to stay awake to see the night sky with him. We walked aorund the quiet campground, gazing up at the sky in wonder. Every inch of the black landscape was cluttered with stars twinkling down at us. I had not seen stars like this since our trip to Colorado two years ago, & I had forgotten just how incredible they are.
The night was getting late, though, & we had another long day ahead of us. Knowing that we would have the chance to stargaze again soon, we headed back to our campsite & retired to bed.
It was another long day of traveling, & yet, I can’t believe there are only two more days left in Yellowstone before we drive up to Glacier National Park. I am trying to commit every moment of this trip to memory, knowing it will be over before I know it & we will be back on the plane to Maryland. But the finite nature of moments in life is what make them sweet, & I feel truly grateful to be out west again, exploring new places & savoring each & every moment.
When planning our trip to Wyoming & Montana, I honestly thought the Grand Tetons would be the most underwhelming part. Of course, they are “grand,” but I thought Yellowstone & Glacier would easily steal the show. However, our day spent in Grand Teton National Park had some of the most stunning views & amazing hikes I have ever been on.
We wanted to get an early start to our day, so we woke up before dawn in our Airbnb, took what would probably be our last real shower for days, & started the drive to Mormon Row.
The drive took longer than expected, & we unfortunately arrived far too late to take the sunrise photos we wanted. Still, the view was spectacular, & we managed to get a few romantic shots of the iconic barn in front of the row of snow-specked Teton mountains. The view was truly breathtaking. The mountains stretched high, the rocky fortress at the top looming down at us. The land below was quiet – it felt like a sacred space where the view of the mountains should be without any form of distraction.
Our next stop was Kelly, WY, an incorporated town not far from Mormon Row. The population is less than 200, & the town only consists of two businesses – a post office & a cafe. Unfortunately for us, the cafe did not open until noon, so our rumbling tummies had to wait to eat breakfast. We wound our car through the windy roods that led into Grand Teton National Park, eager for our first hike of the day. As we drove, we gazed at the magnificent Teton Mountains while listening to music, the windows rolled down & cool morning air blowing back our hair.
“I can’t think of a more chill moment than right now,” Joseph said as we listened to “Come & Get Your Love” by Redbone at full volume, singing along to the words & letting the moment sink in. We were finally back in the mountains.
Our first stop in Grand Teton National Park was Jenny Lake. We stopped by the camp store for coffee & a breakfast sandwich for Joseph. I ate some fruit & a protein bar we had bought from the grocery store. We packed our lunch at the car & then suited up with our Nathan Hydration Packs & headed to the trails.
The hike around Jenny Lake to Hidden Falls is one of the most beautiful I have ever done. Normally, on a hike, you are hiking through rather mundane scenery to get to the spectacular promised view. But on this hike, there was something to marvel at every step of the way. With the mountains on one side & the serene blue lake on the other, we were constantly turning our heads to gaze out at the view. Along the way, an orange fox ran across the trail only a few yards in front of us, & countless chipmunks & squirrels scurried around our feet.
Hidden Falls was a crowded spot. The majority of visitors had taken the boat across Jenny Lake & then did the short 1/2-mile hike up to the falls. Still, the waterfall was stunning. Cool, clear water cascaded down the rocks to a rushing river that cut through the landscape. Joseph & I stayed a few minutes to watch before finally trekking down towards the ferry.
We had decided to take the boat back to the mainland rather than hike all the way back the way we came. I think I would always like to take a boat back after my hike after today’s experience. The worst part of a hike is always the walk back after seeing the spectacular view, but today, the hike was over within minutes after over an hour of walking to get to our destination, & the trip back to the start was nothing but relaxing. We sat back, feeling the wind & spray from the water on our faces, & we drank in the view of the Tetons from our incredible vantage point.
We ate our lunch in the park, gazing up at the mountains, & then we went to talk to a park ranger at the Visitors’ Center. We had already completed our itinerary for the day & there were still hours left to explore the park. The kind ranger recommended a hike & scenic spot to visit, so we hopped in our car & drove to Jackson Lake.
It was a short, figure-eight shaped hike, but the views were spectacular. The multi-colored pebble beach led to serene, still waters that reflected the mountains like a mirror. On the hike, we were met by a family of birds that ran right up to our feet looking for food.
The afternoon went by faster than expected, & soon we had arrived at our campsite. We put up our tent together & then made our first freeze-dried meals of the trip. I am happy to report that it actually tasted really good! For our first meal, we had Creole-Style Chicken, & it was spicy & full of flavor.
We had a bit of a sweet tooth after our meal, so despite the dark clouds rolling in, we drove to the park’s general store to pick up some dessert. We went back to our campsite to get ready for bed, & we ducked inside our tent for the night just as the rain was beginning to fall. It wasn’t the quintessential night of camping we had wanted, with a crackling fire & star gazing. But lying in our tent, listening to the rain patter on our tent’s canvas walls, I couldn’t think of a more perfect night. It had been a full day of adventuring, & we were both exhausted. Like a lullaby, the rain lulled us into a much-needed night’s rest.
