Travel

Honeymoon West Coast trip: Santa Barbara, Solvang, Bixby Bridge, & Carmel-by-the-Sea (Day 5)

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View from the drive to Big Sur

No matter how well you plan for a trip, the one thing you can always count on is that something will not go according to plan.

Joseph & I had planned on taking a ferry ride to Channel Islands National Park today at 8a.m. It was going to be a short trip – the only two options for a ferry ride back to the shore were 10a.m. & 4p.m., & we couldn’t afford a full day spent on the island. The plan was to run around the loop trail as fast as we could, take in the views, & get back to the ferry in time to return to shore. However, as risky this plan was from the beginning, it became utterly hopeless when we received a phone call from Island Packers Cruises yesterday asking if we wanted to change our reservation to a 4:00p.m. return time because all we had essentially booked was a boat ride. By the time the ferry actually docked on the shore, we would only have a maximum of thirty minutes on the island, if we were lucky, before we had to board once again. 

Joseph & I both agreed that we would rather take in the sights another way. So, late last night, Joseph looked up the best hikes in Santa Barbara & chose one that immediately masked our disappointment of not going to an island – we would be going to a hot springs instead. 

Joseph hiking to the hot springs

We woke up early in the morning & drove just 10 minutes away to the trailhead. Instead of going straight to the springs, we decided to take a long, loop hike up a mountain that would take us back to the hot springs on our way down. 

The hike was exhausting, but the views were more than worth it. The mountains in the distance were painted against the sky in all different shades of blue, creating an artistic ombre effect. From our lofty perch, we could see the entirety of the town below us, as well as the undulating waves of the Pacific Ocean. 

The first thing I noticed as we skidded back down the side of the mountain was that the air around us had grown warm. A moment later, I heard the gentle tinkling of falling water droplets. Less than a minute later, we broke through the trees to reveal misty pools of water stair stepped down the side of the mountain, steam rising off of the surface. 

We pulled off our hiking shirts & shorts, revealing the bathing suits we had worn underneath, & slipped into the serene water. The water was so hot that, at first, it stung our skin. I am quite sure it was hotter than any hot tub I have ever soaked in. But our bodies soon acclimated, & we were able to lean against the slimy rocks & relax. There was an odd smell of rotting eggs in the air, which I realized after a moment was from the sulfur compounds that not only give hot springs their many health benefits, but also their characteristic eggy smell.

The hot springs in Santa Barbara

When our bodies felt warm & loose & we were adequately rested, we pulled ourselves out of the water & trekked down the final 1 1/2 miles down the mountain. We were both hungry at this point from our morning’s adventures, so we hopped into the truck & drove 45 minutes to Solvang. 

Walking around Solvang was like stepping into a fairytale. Danish-style homes & windmills lined the streets, & inside each of these structures were local businesses selling items like wooden shoes, sweet candy, & first edition books by Hans Christian Andersen, the pages still intact but yellowed & the covers beginning to peel from the years of storytelling. 

A view on the main street of Solvang

Our first stop was Succulent Cafe for lunch. Joseph finally ordered the burger he had been craving this entire trip, & I ordered the roasted eggplant, which came with fresh bread from a local bakery. The eggplant was served in a rich marinara sauce mixed with olives, capers & roasted mixed vegetables. It was a tad salty for my taste, but still delicious. 

After eating, we decided to stroll around town & do some window shopping. While we did, we passed by multiple wineries (we were, after all, in the heart of wine country). We decided we would be remiss not to buy a local bottle, & we dipped into one store that happened to be in the oldest building in the town. 

Crawford Family Wines is a family-owned winery committed to using only the very best fruits in the country in the making of every bottle of wine. We ordered the tasting with cheese, which came with a flight of five different wines & a container of five different cheeses to pair with each one. The cheese came from the store attached to the winery, Cailloux Cheese Shop, a family-run, European-style shop that sells artisanal cheeses, charcuterie, bread, & accoutrements. The shop is named after the owner’s dog, Cailloux (pebble in French), whose ambitious attitude inspired Janelle, who has a graduate degree in geology, to pursue her passion & open up her own store.

Flight of wine from Crawford Family Wines

I have never enjoyed drinking wine more. All of the wines we tried were smooth, & even the dry reds had bold, fruity flavors. All of the cheeses were so different, from a creamy, soft goat cheese to a hard, smelly yellow cow‘s milk cheese with herbs. Every pairing of cheese & wine was the perfect complement, & after every tasting, we were left speechless & unsure how we would ever choose our favorite. 

We finally settled on a 2014 Pinot Noir from Radian Vineyard. It had a brighter & fruitier flavor than any Pinot Noir I had ever had, & the finish was soft & lingered delicately on the tongue. We bought a bottle for later in our trip & then continued our stroll down the lane.

Before we left, I wanted to try authentic Danish food, so we went to Good Seed Coffee Boutique (because dessert with coffee is always better), & then went to Mortensen’s Danish Bakery for dessert. The pastries were huge! The majority of them stretched longer than my face. I wanted something small, so I chose a lemon petit four, & Joseph ordered a chocolate coffee cookie. I know, it’s they aren’t really danishes, but they came from a danish bakery & I have always wanted to try a petit four, so I let it slide. 

I was glad I made the choice I did because the petit four was delicious. The soft, biscuit like cookie was smeared with a lemon jam & then topped with mousse-like lemon cream. Then the whole dessert was covered in a thin layer of buttercream with a delicate icing flower piped on top. It was dainty & delicious, the perfect sweet bite. 

We left Solvang later than expected, so our next unexpected conundrum was what we should change in our itinerary. Our initial plan was to drive the scenic route to Bixby Bridge, then go to Carmel-by-the-Sea for dinner, & then drive the 17-mile-drive to our Airbnb. However, by now, it would be far too dark to see any of the views on our final drive. So, since we were still full from eating our way through Solvang, we decided to do both scenic drives first & then have a late dinner.

Our view at Bixby Bridge

The route was breathtakingly gorgeous. All along our drive we looked over rocky cliffs to the restless sea below. The drive took longer than expected, & we arrived at Bixby Bridge just as the sun was setting. The light was perfect to snap a few photos & capture the scenic moment, & then to just stand together & soak in the view. Green mountains behind us, a rocky valley to our left, & a steep drop to the golden beach below with waves crashing to the shore in the dim light – despite the cold from elevation & ocean wind, we simply could not tear our eyes away. It was only when the sun was completely hidden by clouds that we finally returned to our truck. 

Now, it was time for another itinerary change. Luckily, tomorrow was the only day we had planned to sleep in, which meant we technically had time to get up early & still drive to see the views on the 17-mile-drive in the early morning light. We decided to sacrifice rest for the experience tomorrow morning, & for the moment, the most important thing was to get some food in our stomachs. 

We drove to Carmel-by-the-Sea, a bustling town despite the late hour & the chill in the air. The weather was reminiscent of fall. We both changed out of our summer clothes & put on sweaters & pants instead, & then headed into the romantic streets lit by street lamps & globe lights. 

We decided to go to the TreeHouse Cafe for dinner. The wait was long, but we requested to sit at the bar, which got us seated immediately. While talking to the server & bartender, we mentioned we were on our honeymoon, & the next thing I knew, they were offering us a table out on the rooftop, surrounded by twinkle lights that looked like stars. 

Joseph & me at our table at TreeHouse Cafe

For a starter, we ordered Greek Dolmas, a vegetarian dish made of stuffed grape leaves & served with tangy & creamy tzatziki. And for dinner, we split the seafood paella, a warm, comforting rice dish full of shrimp, chicken, sausage, clams, mussels & roasted vegetables.

When we told the server we were ready for our check, he told us not to hurry away, & a moment later, the manager brought us a chocolate cheesecake with raspberry sauce & whipped cream. Stuffed from our dinner but much to enticed to refuse, we both nearly finished off the cake together. Layers of moist chocolate cake & creamy, fudge cheesecake, balanced by the sour raspberry flavor & the creamy & cool whipped cream was the perfect, sweet ending to a delicious meal. 

By now, the shops were closed, so Joseph & I walked the main street, taking in the ambience & staying close to one another to keep warm. We arrived shortly at our truck & then, after a long day, finally began the drive to our Airbnb. 

All throughout the day, things didn’t go as planned, but they turned out so much better than we expected. We missed out on the Channel Islands hike that promised amazing views, but instead, we got to gaze out on all of Santa Barbara from the top of a mountain & soak in hot springs! Our stop in Solvang was longer than expected, although definitely worth it. Because of our extended stay, we missed driving the 17-mile-drive, but being late meant we arrived at Bixby Bridge right at twilight & got probably the best view of the day, & we are looking forward to the views we will get on our drive tomorrow morning. The restaurant we chose was crowded, so we settled for sitting in the bar, & then a nonchalant conversation turned into us getting the best seats in the house & a delicious dessert. 

Life is full of sweet surprises. We just have to remember that when life throws us an unexpected turn of events, it might be to turn us into an even better direction. 

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Travel

Washington DC: The day trip we “forgot” to mention

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Me at the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial

It was a hot day in August when Joseph and I decided to visit our nation’s capitol.

I spent a day planning our itinerary, & then we left early on a Tuesday in Joseph’s black Mazda. As we drove into the city, the tall buildings I was expecting greeted us first, but then, lush, green trees surrounded our car.

Our first stop was the Smithsonian Zoo. To avoid zoo parking costs, we drove to Porter St. NW, thanks to a tip online. However, upon arriving, we found that there was only two hour parking available, which would not be long enough for us to explore the zoo. So instead, we drove around for a few minutes, and we luckily stumbled along free residential parking just a couple blocks away from the zoo. We ate a quick breakfast at the car and then walked the busy DC morning streets to our destination.

We strolled down the brick-laden streets that wound around the animal exhibits, peering in with bated breath and repeatedly turning away, disappointed. The animals were nowhere to be found. 

The air was already growing humid and sweat was brimming on our foreheads in the August morning air as we approached the elephant exhibit.

“What if the elephants are hiding, too?“ Joseph asked. I looked back at him, dread washing over me.

“I don’t want to think about it,” I said. Elephants are my favorite animal.

Luckily, the elephants were not hiding away like the other animals. They lumbered around their pen, grazing and enjoying the warm sun. I gazed at the majestic creatures with the same wonder I always do, looking deep into their amber eyes and seeing the same wisdom and beauty that always encapsulates me.

The Elephant Trails Exhibit at the Smithsonian Zoo

Once I had finally had my fill, we explored the rest of the zoo with much more success. The animals had finally come out. We laughed while we watched the otters play and gazed, fascinated, at the stately cats panting in the hot sun. 

Just before leaving the zoo, Joseph dragged me into the Great Ape House, my least favorite place in the zoo. I have been terrified of monkeys since I was a little girl, and that fear has not subsided in the slightest over the years. I watched in terror as the orangutans swung from branch to branch and the angry gorilla charged the glass.

I don’t think we lasted more than two minutes in that exhibit, but that was plenty of time for me. I would have rather spent more time with the elephants.

We were both famished by the time we left the zoo. While Joseph went to get our car, I stopped by Starbucks to get us two large iced lattes and our special mug that we get from every trip we take. We are currently trying to visit all 50 states, and from each one, we get a Starbucks mug from the “Been There” series. It’s our special little souvenir that represents where we have been, as well as our coffee addiction.

We drove to the National Mall, which proved to be an even trickier place to find parking. When we finally did find a spot, we were both growing hangrier by the minute. We walked to a nearby patch of grass and immediately began picnicking. We both felt much better with food in our stomachs, sipping ice cold coffee. 

Joseph & me at the Thomas Jefferson Memorial

By now, sweat was pouring down our backs. My hair was unkempt, and we were both itchy from the grass. It was quite tempting to jump into the glistening water beside us, or to turn home to take a blissfully cold shower. But after traveling in a car around the state of Colorado for nearly two weeks, we are no strangers to discomfort during our adventures, and we always try to make the most of it. So, as planned, we walked around the entire loop of the National Mall. Good conversation and the incredible statues kept us occupied. 

When we stepped into the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial, followed shortly by the Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial, I couldn’t help but reflect on the current events rocking our country. The Black Lives Matter protests were still at their height. Anger had painted our country into two distinct colors of red and blue. The election was still a couple months away, but already I felt the divisiveness and fear in the hearts of my fellow Americans. 

Our walk took much longer than expected – hours later, we were ready for dinner. We drove to Georgetown, or rather, what we thought was Georgetown, and then drove an additional 45 minutes searching desperately for parking. When we finally found a small spot on a beaten down road, we discovered to our dismay that we were on the wrong side of the city. We were on the right street, but our actual destination was a seven minute drive away. It doesn’t sound like much, but it was not a walkable distance, and it meant we would have to search for parking again.

Me at the Washington Monument

We were exhausted but liberated when we drove into Georgetown and found it was the main street feel we had been searching for. The tall, ornate buildings had been replaced by small, locally-owned shops and restaurants. Luckily, we found parking within a few minutes, and then we searched for the restaurant we wanted to visit. We settled on an American cuisine (I mean, we were visiting the American capitol, after all); we dined at Clydes, a family-owned restaurant that believes in using local and sustainable ingredients in their cooking. The atmosphere was classy, but no doubt American. We sat down at a leather booth, surrounded by ornate woodwork, and listening to 80s rock music playing softly in the background. 

Joseph ordered a burger and some of the best French fries I have ever tasted in my life. I got a salad with grilled salmon. Neither of us were disappointed. The meat and seafood were cooked to a succulent perfection, seasoned so astutely we both couldn’t stop eating. 

We ended our meals satisfied and ready to return home after a long day. On our walk back to the car, we perused a few shops, but we were both too tired to take our time. 

When we arrived home, we each took long, cool showers and then crashed into our beds, ready for a long night’s rest. Visiting our nation’s capitol had been an exciting trip, one we would not soon forget. 

We didn’t tell this story right away, though. Life seemed to only grow crazier, both in our personal lives and in our nation. I was working way too many hours to also be regularly posting on a blog. However, every time I received a free moment and thought about posting this story, I thought it might seem tactless to describe a blissful day in our nation’s capitol with all of the tumultuous events occurring at that very place.

And then, the events of January 6 occurred, when fellow Americans stormed the U.S. Capitol building with guns and bombs, disrupting the peaceful transition of power our country has respected for hundreds of years. It was shocking to watch the videos, just as it was shocking to watch the violence take place during the Black Lives Matter protests last summer. And both times, I realized I sat safe at home while others were hurt. I sat at home while my brothers and sisters were killed. It made me sick to my stomach. 

Me outside the Smithsonian Zoo

So, why am I posting this story now? The timing is no better than it was before. Well, all I can say is, it was a beautiful day, in our nation’s capitol. Despite it being unbearably hot and an exhausting trip, it was a beautiful day spent in the city our nation depends on every day. 

When I think back to the trip now, I think about the moments I spent gazing up at the Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial. I think about what he fought for, the reason he is remembered in granite and in our hearts today. I wonder what he would think of the divisiveness in our nation now. I wonder what he would say about the protests, the riots, the hurt, and the pain. 

I cannot speak for him, but what I will say is that I think the time has come for us to unify once again. I think it is time to rebuild, and to build it much better this time. I think it is time that we listen to one another instead of yell at one another, that we build each other up instead of tear each other down. I think it’s time for forgiveness, as hard as it may be, and to soften our hardened hearts to the possibility of love and building a better future. 

I don’t think it will be easy. I don’t think it is something I can just write and then it will happen. It’s going to take patience, hard work, and a lot of uncomfortable conversations. I imagine I will have to be in a lot of situations that are far more discomforting that this day in Washington, DC. But I am more than willing, and I hope you are, too. 

Because, as Martin Luther King, Jr. said, “Darkness cannot drive out darkness; only light can do that. Hate cannot drive out hate; only love can do that.” 

Joseph and me just a few minutes away from his house – we made it home just as the sun was setting

There has been a shadow of darkness over our nation, and hate has been spewed for generations. I know standing up against this overwhelming cloud of wickedness and corruption takes courage, but I think it also takes a lot of love. And if I want to be remembered for anything in my life, I want it to be for how I loved. I hope my writing is a part of the dim light shining through, and my intention is that whoever is reading this feels only love from my words. 

Let’s drive out the darkness together, one small step at a time, and let’s love the hate out of this nation, one person at a time. It’s what we all have the power to do. It’s what we were born here with the freedom to do. And as Martin Luther King, Jr. said, “The time always right to do what is right.”

P.S. Watch Joseph’s vlog about this trip on his YouTube channel – & don’t forget to subscribe!

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