Assateague Island: Maryland’s hidden weekend getaway

My mom & I enjoying the Assateague Island National Seashore

When my mom & I were invited weeks ago to a weekend getaway at Assateague Island National Seashore, it sounded like the perfect excuse for a girls weekend. Last Friday, we packed our bags, met up in Annapolis for lunch, & then drove the remaining few hours together to our quaint Airbnb just 30 minutes away from the beach.

My mom & I have always been close. I know that is something I am blessed with. There are so many mothers & daughters I know who do not get along, but my mom is someone I have always been able to come to in good times & in bad, who I enjoy sharing a bottle of wine with & watching our favorite Netflix shows. Since starting my career, getting married, & officially moving two hours north, we don’t get to spend much time alone together anymore. This weekend was the perfect opportunity to reconnect & just relax together.

When we first arrived, my mom was eager to see the beach. Neither of us had ever been to Assateague before, & we both wanted to see the wild horses. So, we changed our clothes, put on our flip flops (despite the fact that Assateague is still rather chilly in April), went to Starbucks for a much-needed caffeine boost, & then headed to the shore. We dipped our feet in the cool & soft sand & gazed out at the ocean from a distance. The wind was so strong & the waves were crashing so loud that we could barely hold a conversation over the din. Despite this, the beach was serene. 

It is surprising to me that Assateague is only a short drive away from Ocean City, which is always busy, overly-commercialized, & full of material beach flair. Assateague, however, looks almost untouched. The beach is not combed, & there are no shops or restaurants for miles. Even with it being the “off season,” the beach was less busy than I had imagined it to be.

My mom enjoying the beach at the Assateague Island National Seashore

We didn’t see any horses, so once we had our fill of watching the waves, we headed to the Full Moon Saloon for dinner. We split a half rack of ribs as an appetizer & then a perfectly grilled & succulent tuna with freshly steamed green beans for dinner. For dessert, we ordered a slice of bumbleberry pie, simply because I was so enamored by the name. For those who do not know, bumbleberry pie is a pie served cold that has at least three different kinds of berries – this one had blueberries, blackberries & raspberries. Served in a flaky, buttery crust, this pie was so dense with berries it seemed impossible that it held itself together. It was refreshingly sweet, making it the perfect end to a delicious, comforting meal.

All the while, my mom & I chatted. Despite talking regularly on the phone & visiting almost once a month, it seemed we had so much to catch up on! There was never a break in the conversation. From family to jobs to hobbies to plans for the future, there was so much to share & discuss.

After dinner, we headed back to our Airbnb, where we opened a bag of popcorn & watched WandaVision. I had seen it months ago, but my mom had never watched it. I knew with her love of old TV shows like I Love Lucy it would be a big hit. We watched two episodes, at which time neither of us could keep our eyes open any longer, & we retired to bed.

The reason we had been initially invited on this weekend getaway was to attend a pollinator event run by the Maryland Conservation Corps at Assateague. A childhood friend of mine had helped create the event, & her mom had invited us all to attend. Saturday morning, my mom & I got ready & headed back to the state park to check out all the excitement.

Multiple tents had been set up with displays that included activities & information for different sustainability efforts. At the first tent, we watched two small owls (one of which startled my mom, who believed the owls were stuffed animals), a horseshoe crab & a box turtle. At the next tent, we were able to get seeds to plant our summer gardens, & at the next, we had the opportunity to paint bluebird houses. Aimee, my childhood friend, was helping at a table where participants were planting new flowers & grasses in a field. We caught up briefly, talking to Aimee more about the event & what she has been up to recently. Then, we met up with Aimee’s mom, Tammy; her cousin, Caroline; & a family friend, Cheryl, who had come on the trip as well. They invited us to come back to their Airbnb in Ocean City that afternoon for charcuterie & wine, which we excitedly accepted.

We tried first to go to the national park with Tammy’s borrowed park pass, but we couldn’t get in. Disappointed, we turned around to return her pass. As we drove, we caught site of one lazy pony on the side of the road, & we both ogled at it, eager to see more. However, this was the only pony we saw on our way in & out of the park.

For lunch, we headed to downtown Berlin, a small town filled with shops & local restaurants. Here, farther from the water, the day was warm & sunny, & we were able to shed our many layers & walk around in sunglasses. We perused the shops, chatting casually. We stopped for lunch at Blacksmith, a gastropub that serves delicious farm-to-table meals, & then we got coffees at a cleverly named shop, On What Grounds?

My mom & I enjoying coffee from On What Grounds? in downtown Berlin

After a few hours of perusing, we headed back to our Airbnb to change for dinner & then went to spend time with our friends. We sat on their balcony, eating charcuterie & sipping Moscato, catching up on everyone’s lives. When it was time to go to dinner, we carpooled in two cars to OC Wasabi, a Japanese restaurant that serves delicious sushi. Aimee & her roommate, Jess, as well as another childhood friend, Gabby, joined us for dinner. 

What was most surprising to me was that the majority of people sitting around the table I had not seen in years or I had never met. However, we fell in place like old friends do & spent the entire night talking about our lives since we had last seen each other. Aimee & Jess intern for the National Parks Service & live just a few minutes away from the Assateague Island National Seashore. Jess is working on a novel, & the two of them recently went to Comic-Con together dressed as characters from Star Wars. Caroline is going to school, & she is currently working at Starbucks with what sounds to be a great group of friends & her boyfriend. Tammy & her husband are in retirement, & she shared with us about what she & her husband have been up to as well as their two sons. Cheryl works with preschoolers & is soon leaving for a vacation for her eldest son’s college graduation in Montana & then to go on a Disney Cruise to Alaska. Gabby is about to graduate & then go on to medical school to work with the deaf community. 

I did not want the evening to end. It was so much fun to catch up with everyone & hear the stories from their lives. We said our goodbyes in the chilly parking lot & then headed to our own Airbnbs. My mom & I were both exhausted from the activity-filled day, but we still couldn’t help staying up late in the living room, still bursting with things to talk about. It wasn’t until nearly midnight that we both collapsed in our beds, exhausted.

The following morning, mom & I headed to the Assteague Island National Seashore in search of horses. This time, we decided to pay the $25 visitor fee & go hiking. As soon as we arrived, we saw two horses playing together, & as we approached, we noticed three more standing not too far away. Tourists had gathered to watch, & we, too, joined the crowd, smiles stretched across our faces. The horses were elegant, with long mains of hair & shiny coats. Despite being wild, they looked well groomed. We had been warned by signs to stay at least 40 feet away from the horses, so we kept our distance, watching in awe.

We traversed the Dune Trail next, which, despite being less than a mile, was challenging because of the shifty, sandy terrain. With every step, our feet dug into the sand, slowing our gait. Today was much warmer than the days prior, & the sun beat down on our skin. By the end, I was desperate to change out of my planned attire for another chilly day at the beach & into shorts & a tank.

Wild horses enjoying the sunshine at the Assateague Island National Seashore

We didn’t see any horses on the first trail, so we headed next to the Marsh Trail, which led us onto a pier over shallow water & wet grass. Here, we saw four more horses, one of which was just a foal! She was so tired, she spent the entire time lying next to her mother in the grass, & her mother grazed lazily beside her.

It was the perfect way to end the trip. We had finally seen the horses we had come to see, but more importantly, we had finally had the chance to spend a weekend away together, & it was everything we had hoped for. Unlike the wild horses that live in herds, we, as humans, often split up chasing our own dreams & passions. But every once in a while, it’s nice to come together once again, reliving old memories, sharing new stories, & making new memories to be cherished. 

Trip map created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android
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Colorado road trip: Day 10

Be courageous.

When I woke up this morning, the shirt I changed into was the one I earned last summer when I ran across the country with the Ulman Foundation. It’s a bright yellow shirt, with the words “Be Courageous” emblazoned on the front in dark blue letters. It’s one of my favorite shirts, one that always reminds me of the feat I accomplished last year and that serves as a helpful reminder for my life. 

Already feeling encouraged, I excitedly began my day, even though the difficulties of this trip were starting to get to both Joseph and me. Our biggest complaint today was how badly we needed to shower. The way we smelled was starting to offend even us, so I can only imagine what other people thought. My feet, the one part of me I had not been able to get clean even in our makeshift outdoor showers, were caked in dirt. 

Luckily, we reserved an Airbnb for tonight in Denver. For much of our day, instead of being excited about the adventures we were experiencing, we were most looking forward to showering. Every hour, Joseph gave me the countdown of how long it would be until we would be clean again. 

We started our day with an easy two-and-a-half-mile hike with a view of the mountains in the background. We then stopped at a local library so I could teach a yoga class via Zoom, and then we headed to Chautauqua Park for a more strenuous afternoon hike. 

Per a local’s suggestion, we did the Flatiron trail. It was another two-and-a-half-mile hike, but this one had an elevation of over 1,400 feet. The trail took us straight up the side of the mountain with no place to rest. Breathing heavily, we managed to keep conversation going as we scaled the rocky landscape. 

“Is it worth it,” Joseph jokingly asked some hikers on their way down the trail.

“Oh, yes,” one woman said. “The view is always worth it.”

She was not wrong. Joseph and I sat at the top, feeling accomplished and satisfied. The flatirons resembled rockslides caught at a single, picturesque moment and left that way for eternity. The rocks formations slanted against the mountainside, creating three, nearly identical plates. In the distance, we could see the mountain we hiked yesterday against the backdrop of taller, snowier peaks. 

The trip down was long and tiring. My legs were shaking from the amount of exertion I have placed on them over the last few days. I was definitely ready for a good night’s rest. 

We ate a quick picnic lunch in the park, and then we began the drive to Denver. On the way, we stopped at a Starbucks to purchase lattes and the souvenir I have been most excited about. Last year during 4K for Cancer, one of my teammates, Illona, told me about the mugs she buys at Starbucks everywhere she visits. Each mug is designed for the particular city, state or country the Starbucks is located at, with the name of the place and images reminiscent of different landmarks located there. As a world traveler, she had mugs from many different countries. She told me how, when she had guests, she coyly would ask them from where they would like to drink their coffee: Paris? California? And then she would serve them coffee in the corresponding mug.

I thought it was such a cute idea at the time. Then, as Joseph and I grew more serious in our relationship, I thought it was the perfect souvenir for us to get on all of our travels together. We are avid coffee drinkers, and Starbucks stores are everywhere. We were bound to dip into one on all of our future travels at some point, so why not get a corresponding mug from each place to make a collection? 

The Colorado mug is the first of our collection. I can’t wait to see how many other mugs we will add to the shelf in our future home.

Our Airbnb was tall, blue house in a nice neighborhood just twenty minutes outside of Denver. The first and most important thing on both of our agendas was taking a shower. Joseph went first, and he came back looking refreshed, his shin a couple shades lighter now that the dirt was scrubbed from it. 

“I feel like a new man,” he told me. “I feel like we are a different species now.” 

I jumped up eagerly, grabbed my toiletries, and went into the bathroom. I turned the water the temperature up as hot as I could stand, and then I let it cascade down me, watching dirt run off my skin and into the drain. I massaged my head with shampoo until my fingers were numb, and then I scrubbed my skin until it felt raw. Even after all that, I’m not sure I was entirely clean, but I finally felt human again. I can’t even express how revitalizing that shower was. After ten days without one, it felt like a luxury.

Joseph and I relaxed in the room in our sweats until it was time to get ready for dinner. I had searched for the best places to eat in Denver and then carefully scanned the menus of each place for something I could eat on my new, restrictive diet. I found two places, and yesterday, Joseph and I made reservations at Roxy on Broadway. 

We dressed up in fancy clothes, he in khakis and a button-down red and black plaid shirt, and I in my classic little black dress. Feeling as if we were first-class citizens, not two young adults who had just spent the last week camping and sleeping in their car, we exited the house and approached our car. It seemed odd that we no longer matched our ride; while we had transformed our appearance in the matter of two hours, this car was a stark reminder of where we had actually come from, with its cracked windshield, duct-taped rooftop carrier, and dirt streaks. But this car had carried us all the way from Maryland to the last stop of this adventure; no other mode of transportation would be fitting to carry us to our celebratory dinner.

Roxy on Broadway was hidden away from the bustle of downtown Denver. With its garage-style door and simple, brick appearance, it could easily be overlooked. But inside, it was a 1920s era dream. Candle-lit chandeliers hung from the ceiling in front of the bar stacked with local liquors. Tables and chairs had been set up for customers to sit theatre-style in front of a small stage, where two musicians played. The menu featured classic prohibition-era cocktails, while the food was modern and diverse. 

The staff was pleasant and accommodating. When we had made a reservation, Joseph had written in the notes that I was on a low-FODMAP diet, something most people don’t and probably will never have to know about. While the menu featured multiple gluten-free and vegan options, it was difficult to be absolutely sure which selections would not aggravate my stomach. The chef, however, had already taken this into consideration. I was assured by our hostess upon arrival that he was fully aware of my needs. I ordered a kale salad, and the chef whipped up a homemade oil and vinegar dressing so that I could enjoy it without any adverse side effects. Meanwhile, Joseph enjoyed a pulled pork sandwich with a side of the best french fries I have ever tasted. They were substantial, crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside, and seasoned to perfection.

Joseph and I toasted all that we have accomplished and experienced together over these last few months in quarantine – his graduation, his birthday, and our engagement. It was our first drink together in a restaurant, and I am so glad we waited. It felt good to toast to life in a city a mile high in the sky. 

The musical entertainment for the night featured Erik Fellenstein, a Colorado local. He started his show with a guitar accompaniment, but the second half he performed by himself. Joseph and I stayed longer than expected to catch his full performance. We thoroughly enjoyed his jazzy, folksy style, and many times we caught ourselves laughing at his jokes. His songs were entertaining, both lyrically and instrumentally, and I was struck constantly by the breadth of his talent. He sang with soul, and he played the violin with a richness that is often lacking by musicians.

At the end of his performance, Joseph and I clapped with the rest of the crowd, sipped the last of our drinks, and then left to visit Larimer Square. To our disappointment, the lights strung across the street were still lit, but the shops were closed. Vowing to return tomorrow, we returned to our AirBnb for a much-needed night’s rest in a luxuriously warm and soft bed. 

Be courageous. It was the message on the shirt given to me after I had completed the most courageous adventure I have ever been on, and it is the message I still try to remind myself of every day. While 4K is still probably the most amazing feat I have ever accomplished, I have the opportunity every day to do something courageous. It took courage to go on this road trip, especially when I had just started such a strict and limiting diet for my health, which has been declining steadily for the past year. It took courage to have the tough conversations I have had with Joseph during our long car rides, and to explore deeper into my own psyche during those trying moments. It took courage to place my trust in another person, to be vulnerable with him, and to promise to spend the rest of my life with him, for better or for worse, in sickness and in health. 

These moments that take courage can be daunting at their best and absolutely petrifying at their worst, but as Joseph and I were reminded by that Boulder local during our hike today, the mountain is always worth the climb. The courage it takes is always worth the adventure it takes me on. 

Follow your dreams. Explore life outside of your comfort zone. Be courageous. You never know what amazing adventures life will have waiting for you when you do. 

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