“If a year was tucked inside a clock, then autumn would be the magic hour.”
– Victoria Erickson
There is something special about October. The air gets cool & crisp. The leaves fade into vibrant hues of reds, oranges & yellows. There are brightly colored mums & creepily carved faces in pumpkins on every doorstep. It’s nature’s last show of its beauty & color before everything lies dormant in the winter, & it’s always a spectacular finale.
Despite living on the east coast for all of my life, I have never ventured north to see the leaves change. There has always been too much on the calendar, & before I know it, the leaves have already browned & died & the cold winter weather has arrived. This year, I was determined to not let another fall slip by unnoticed. So, shortly after arriving home from our trip to Montana, Joseph & I picked a weekend, booked a few Airbnbs, & began planning the ultimate Vermont road trip.
The drive up to Vermont was long & uneventful. I always underestimate how long it takes to drive along the east coast. The states are so much smaller than their western counterparts, but somehow it seems to take just as long to get across them. It was nearly 8:00 by the time we arrived at the Church Street Marketplace in Burlington. We stretched our stiff limbs & hurried out into the night, eager to get in a little exploring before the day was fully over.
Lucky for us, it seemed the marketplace was just beginning to wake up for a long night of fun. Burlington is a popular college town full of cute shops & mouth-watering restaurants. We were unwilling to wait or spend a fortune on food our first night, so we settled to eat at Petit Bijou Kiosk, a little cart set up across the street from the Parisian restaurant Leunig’s Bistro that featured pastries, coffees, sandwiches, salads & other grab-&-go options. We ordered two sandwiches, which unfortunately were pre-made & cold, & truffle fries with pesto, which were the definite highlight of the meal. Stomachs satisfied after hours of driving, we headed up the lane, dipping into cute shops & admiring the lights that were strung across the trees. Before heading out, we stopped at Lake Champlain Chocolates for some truffles & maple chocolates. It was the perfect pick-me-up for the hour-and-a-half long drive to our Airbnb.
The following day, we headed out early, excited to get a head start on the day’s adventures. Unfortunately, it seemed the weather was not as eager for our visit as we were. We drove nervously underneath the dark, gray skies, hoping the rain would hold off until we finished our hike.
Our first stop was Mount Mansfield, the tallest peak in Vermont. I remarked at the beginning of the hike that this was a “baby mountain” – less than 4,500 feet in elevation. It seemed like nothing compared to the mountains we have seen out west, which sometimes measure over 14,000 feet. However, I neglected to remember that 4,000 feet is no easy task, especially when the rocks are slippery & footholds are scarce. Our boots slipped beneath us as we trekked up the mountain side, climbing precariously up & down rock faces & keeping our eyes determinedly facing up so as not to see the drop below us. We had grossly underestimated the amount of exertion it would take to climb this mountain, & then to also return back down. I had only brought one KIND bar with me, & Joseph had not brought a single thing to eat.
I would like to report that the view was worth the hike. For the first bit of the trek up, it was. We sat on the rocks, hair standing on end from the chill of the cool mountain wind, gazing in awe at the valley below. Technicolor trees of orange, red & yellow covered the landscape. I wanted to sit there for hours, taking in the breathtaking view. I could have happily ended the hike there & felt fully satisfied. In fact, that’s probably what I should have done.
The rain clouds that had been threatening us all morning blew in as we approached the summit. Soon, we were lost within the cloud, only able to see a few feet in front of us before the landscape was immersed in gray, which is not ideal for traveling close to the edge of a mountain. We stepped carefully, rocks slipping below our feet & falling out of sight. I thanked my past self for one brief moment of wisdom from the beginning of the hike & gratefully pulled on my extra layers to warm my arms, which had grown numb from the cold.
Then, it started to pour. Heavy raindrops attacked us, seeping in through our clothes & chilling our bones underneath. The ground beneath our feet became even more slippery. We looked at each other & couldn’t help but laugh at our luck.
The bright side, if we could even find one in a raging storm, was that the rain did happen to bring out the colors of the leaves around us & make them even more vibrant. With nothing else to do & no way to get down the mountain faster, we accepted our fate & enjoyed the view. Peering through water droplets dripping off the brim of my hat, I soaked in the beautiful view & reminded myself this was what I had come for. We splashed down the mountainside & ran back to our car, & I thanked my past self for one more stroke of brilliance: I had packed a warm change of clothes.
We changed quickly & drove to the Ben & Jerry’s Factory just as the rain was beginning to slow, stopping for some much-needed hot coffees along the way. Earlier in the week, I had attempted to buy tickets for the factory tour, but they had sold out before I was able to book them. For anyone attempting to do the tour, tickets are not released until promptly 11am on Tuesday the week before – not a minute earlier. I had woken up early Tuesday morning to book our tickets & had been dismayed to see they were not yet released. I checked again & again throughout the morning, but still, no available times. At 11am, I was in a meeting for work. When I revisited the site at 11:15am, all the tickets were gone.
Still, if you are unable to book tickets, visiting Ben & Jerry’s is still a fun experience, & the best part is available for factory tour recipients & your average dessert lover: The ice cream shop. We stopped first at the Flavor Graveyard, a small plot of land with fake headstones bearing the names of discontinued flavors of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream. We spent a few minutes perusing & laughing at the comical descriptions of each flavor & its unfortunate demise. We then headed down the hill to the Ice Cream Shop. The line was long, but it moved fast, & soon we were seated on the patio, happily licking our ice cream scoops, which happened to be our first source of sustenance that day. I ordered the sweet & tart combo of Lemonade Sorbet & Strawberry Cheesecake Ice Cream, & Joseph ordered the caffeine-laden Coffee Coffee BuzzBuzzBuzz! & a scoop of the popular Half Baked.
After we had finished our dessert, we headed to Stowe in search of an actual meal. Many restaurants are fully booked on prime fall weekends in Vermont, but we managed to slip in to Harrison’s if we agreed to sit on the covered porch instead of inside the restaurant. We happily obliged – with the offer of warm food, an aptly placed heater just above our table, & a beautiful view of the iconic main street, what more could we ask for? We shared a bottle of the featured wine, a delightfully smooth Pinot Noir. For dinner, we shared the house salad to start. Joseph ordered the Harrison’s Burger, which was made with local beef & served on a crusty brioche bun with local Cabot cheddar cheese, fresh lettuce, tomato & red onion, & a tangy house made sauce. I ordered the sweet potato encrusted salmon, which paired beautifully with the wine & was just what I needed to finally feel warm after a day spent in the chilling rain. The pan seared salmon was topped with a sweet potato & ginger crust & served alongside a vegetable medley drizzled with a sweet & tangy maple balsamic glaze.
After dinner, we spent a few minutes roaming the streets, drinking in the view & walking more times than necessary under the quintessential covered bridges. When it grew too dark to see & the shops closed, we took the remainder of our bottle of wine & headed back to the AirBnb to relax for the evening.
Despite the poor weather, our first day in Vermont did not disappoint. In fact, it truly was everything I had hoped for: Beautiful leaves, tasty local foods, & an oddly homey feel for a place so far from home.
There is something special about Octobers – as the weather grows colder, we stubbornly bundle up in our sweaters & beanies, eager to soak up the last bit of the year before the weather grows too cold. We sip cider & pumpkin spice lattes & argue pointlessly over which is better. We gather closer & remember, even as the world grows colder & darker, that it still feels warm & cozy when we spend our days together.
And as special as Octobers are anywhere, I must say, there is something extra special about Octobers in Vermont. Standing under the protection of a covered wooden bridge, gazing out at trees with leaves so brightly colored the eyes can barely soak them in, it’s easy to get lost in the magic of Octobers. And that is precisely what I am here to do.
